OK, will try tomorrow. Its to dark to see without the lamps now.
I went to disconnect terminal 5 but I’m stuggeling with that one. The bridge between 5&6 was done by the electrician who did all the wiring in my house. I have not made that bridge myself while installing the dimmer.
If disconnect terminal 5 then wouldn’t I isolate Live on terminal 6?
I do have a multimeter I will try to learn how to use it to be able to test for current.
Yes I did but sorry I can’t find any. I’ve searched my cloud backup for 3 years of photos but couldn’t find anything.
I will need an electrician for a pool project in the upcoming weeks. I can ask him to also have a look on the Shelly as I’m struggeling on what to try next.
I couldn’t imagine this beeing so hard when the single switches where so easy. And I was hoping to learn something.
I must say the I’m really impressed with you Patience with me Cooper and the kindness of trying to help me.
I’ve have setup Development env and starting to learn Python because I really want to give back to the comunity. This was a big step to learn but I hope one day I will be able to contribute.
Thank you so much @cooper & @maxym for all your help.
Please, don’ hesitate to let me know if there is anything I can help you with.
Hi, I love in the London Uk and I’m about to move into a new flat come September, been thinking of how to setup the lighting and want to use Shelly because it is discrete so my landlord won’t complain. Could you help me? Maybe even professional. I read your in the Uk but I don’t know if your in London
Sorry to far for me to help.
The shelly products are very good in my opinion though. as long as you have enough space in the switch box’s, neutrals (dimmer V2 does have neutral free setup) and a good wifi strength.
Sorry couldn’t be more help.
Hi.
I am also based in Sweden and have the same question that you did. Did you ever find a solution to using two “regular” switches in conjunction with the shelly dimmer?
Sorry, no
I didn’t ask the electician as the electicity was part of a bigger project. And by the time the electrician arrived we was already over budget.
But my original wiring as posted works fine. With all the hues and Trådfri the wife have by now learned to leave all manual switches alone. Thus this have worked since installation. Its not perfect but it works
the wiring is the same as for circuit without Shelly dimmer. The difference is, that hot line from the last switch has to be connected to the dimmer input instead of the lamp
Worth to note that with traditional switches you probably won’t get dimming controlled from switch (I don’t know if Shelly DImmer has such feature). on/off only.
To be able to dimm with switch you have to use momentary one which in 2-way config requires replacing switches with momentary (aka bell) ones (see pictures in previous posts). Some switches are built the way allowing conversion to momentary just by adding a dedicated spring
Considering wired vs smart lamps, I suggest to go wired ones for as many as possible. Using smart bulbs only for additional lighting.
Some might say wireless is reliable but from time to time you need to do some changes in network, hubs, HA. And this outages might mean no lights control for this period of time.
If you live alone, then it probably doesn’t matter. If you have a family- ussually you cannot afford it.
Yeah I came to the same conclusion. I think I will put the Shelly in the electrical box above the lamp, which means I have to connect it to the switched output and an additional live wire (which luckely is already routed to that box) .
Thanks for confirming my thoughts.
I’m currently in the same situation as you guys. I had an electrician over yesterday and took a few minutes to ask him how to do it. He said that the best way would be to put the Shelly Dimmer in the the “connection box” (kopplingsdosan) in order to avoid all headache.
My idea is to scrap all mechanical switches and install Zigbee switches from Sunricher to controll the lights. Those switches fit in standard frames for i.e. Schneider Exxacta and Elko. Then I would avoid all the hassle with the wiring and also get the benefit of getting smart switches that I can controll via HASS.