I got a couple of Shelly 1 Plus units to automate my garage door and sliding gate motors. These new Shelly’s have a dedicated 12v terminal, and the units work fine wired up to my garage door, which supplies its own 12v feed. The AP publishes itself straightaway and I can connect and configure it in HA.
Both units also work fine with 240v. I’ve just tested by wiring up active and neutral and seeing the AP straight away.
I cannot get either unit to work on the 24V feed from my BHT gate motor though. I’m just wiring up the motor’s 24V aux + and - to the Shelly’s DC terminals but I get no AP. I’ve confirmed with a multimeter 24V is going to the Shelly’s terminal.
Is there something I’m missing with 24V DC requirements? Do I also have to wire the SW/0/1 terminals before the AP starts up??
I have the same issue. I’m sure my wiring is correct but I did not see the Shelly pop up in my wifi list or during pairing with the app. Holding down the reset button for more than 10 seconds did not help.
Did you manage to solve the issue?
I have been looking at the Shelly 1 Plus for a garage door project, but I am trying to figure out why I would want the plus over a regular Shelly 1 (other than the easier pairing and the newer model.). Are there any Cons to the plus that I should be considering?
I am having a similar problem getting my Shelly Plus 1 online with a 24v DC.
I tried connecting the 2 wires from the 24v transformer to the L and the N sockets on the Shelly (and also tried reversing them) but I could not get the Access Point to come alive.
As a test, I connected the 2 wires to the 12v and the N and that worked instantly - the AP point became visible…
Unfortunately after 10 seconds (as I was configuring things on the mobile app) I heard a soft “pop” and the connection went dead. I suspect I “fried” the unit by putting 24v where it expected only 12v.
But before I buy a new one and try again I wanted to see if anyone had any additional tips or thoughts on how to get the Shelly 1 Plus connected with 24v DC. (I checked with a voltage tester and it is indeed 24v).
I don’t suppose you ever figured this out did you? I just did the same and mine went pop. Pretty deflated about it. It was to replace an unreliable Shelly 1 so quite annoying to have now broken this one as well. I don’t know what the wiring should have been but it’s definitely not the same as the original one.
Sorry David did you ever resolve your issues with the Shelly Plus 1 not receiving power? As I’m facing that exact issue. If so would you mind so much as to point me in the right direction.
Yes, unexpectedly the power was not 24V DC but 24V AC and was then converted from AC to DC further downstream on the board of the garage door opener. So I ordered a 24V AC to DC converter on Aliexpress and it works perfectly fine since then.
Hi David
I too was able to get my Shelly Plus 1 powered up when I found out that a blown fuse on the Thalia board was my issue and connected the Shelly Plus 1 directly to the incoming battery terminals on the board see diagram;
My only issue now is the Shelly app constantly showing a red line on the button icon with the gate closed or open so I believe there is an issue with the switch somehow.
That said I notice my batteries draining quicker than usual over night even with the solar system. I didn’t think the Shelly Plus 1 would use much power.
Am I missing something in the configuration?
What you have connected to shelly SW terminal? What’s the purpose? Anyway whatever it is, it has to have same potential with battery negative. According to thalia scheme it’s connected to 24V AC.
Old but still relevant topic: My source is 23.7V Initially I could pair and operate my Shelly 1 Plus (hence I apparently wired the Shelly correctly) but after a while (few mins) it wouldn’t show up anymore in the app. I tried to factory reset the Shelly by pressing the button >10sec, but still no success. Then I connected it to 220V and it showed up again.
Could 23.7V instead of 24V be the culprit? Is 24V known to be reliable?
PS: My power source is the the 24V driven door locking/interphone system of our house, over which I don’t have control, but it’s available where I want to place the Shelly. 220V is a hassle (but manageable) at that place
