if you click on the device itself in shelly it shows you current wattage - there is a little down arrow there you can click on and then change the timeframe
same for me, I have battery powered zemismart roller shade with broadlink rm pro. Can learn code just fine with econtrol app but then the created buttons does nothing ā¦
I also tried with the scan frequency but does not work either. Shame the motor otherwise works great with the remoteā¦ And my broadlink works flawlessly with rf plugs since many years ā¦ Any of you managed to make this combination work ?
check out this if it helps
I came on this thread while also searching some way to enable bidirectional support with Dooya motors in Home Assistant, so that we can have state updates for cover position. (they are the only ones I have found for small 17mm tubes).
Dooya has a PDF overview of all their products http://downloads.dooya.com/interiorapplication.pdf and you can see there the āMini Bridgeā - its a small WiFi gateway powered by usb.
I have found one Aliexpress listing:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001366175248.html?spm=2114.12010615.8148356.29.3bd531fdnJ1iLp
It is controlled from a mobile app, so it must have an API.
Also, I have found some API documentation inside one Github repository https://github.com/alexbacchin/ConnectorBridge
I will probably order one of these and see where it goes.
In case someone has the same issue, the trick was to learn a long press instead of a single press for up and down (despite what says the app). This worked both in the broadlink app and with home assistant broadlink learn service
I had a read through the API and have a few scripts to allow you control the Dooya motors via the hub. The API has a huge C program to generate the AccessToken. I use a perl script of a few lines to keep it simple. I will tidy things up over the next few days, but please feel free to play and pass any comments back.
If anyone is interested, Iāll put a couple of functions together for the ESP8266 to allow control of blinds. It will use the Arduino compiler to make it easy to use.
When I have something working it will be in the github repository with a name like āblinds.inoā
Just curious, what is the desision process when encountering an ESP32 device that you want to use with HA?
I just got a DD7002B from a whitelabled brand called Moritz sold by āno bull blindsā here in Australia.
It definitely seems to be an ESP32.
What goes into the decision of try and intergrate into the existing API vs flashing it with something like tasmota ?
Assuming the next natural step with this code would be to make it into a HA intergration? Since HA intergrations are in python anyway, and it would just communicate with the hub directly over wifi. Is that usually the goal āend stateā for these projects so people without coding experience can install via an intergration and just use HA UI to configure?
Someone pointed out to me that the Motion blinds integration uses the same API as Dooya.
Therefore the Motion blinds integration schould work with Dooya blinds and is a complete integration with config flow and multicast push support.
See Motion Blinds - Home Assistant for more info.
Edit: of course you would need a bridge/gateway to control the Dooya blinds.
Hey Sam. I have questions about that bridge. I have some Moritz motors and looking to add a bunch of dooya dm25leu motors I presume they are all the same. Did that bridge are customisation or does it work with the generic connect app?
Hey mate, I am based in Melbourne, and looking for a controller for my no-name roller shutters. Do this white label Dooya DD7002B device works with rolling RF433 codes ?
Have you managed to get it to talk with HA ?
Hi, noob here so noob questions Has anybody managed to get a correct position status reported back to HA from Dooya motors?
- via Dooya DD7002B bridge?
- via third-party RF bridge (e.g. Sonoff)?
- via third-party relay switch (Shelly 2.5.)
I am looking at various options prior to refurbishing my house hence would like to know what works best. Thanks!
I have got this device on hand from my roller shutter installers. They say its compatible with rolling codes, while I cant make it work with my roller shutters. I am still waiting for my roller shutter installers to either guide me to make it work, or provide another compatible device.
Anyone else here made it learn rolling codes ?
Thanks for sharing, I wonder if I can use Sonoff Dual R3 instead of Shelly
If you want to go dead-simple, what I did is just use a Z-Wave outlet with an Add-A-Motor which can pull standard curtain pulls. Nothing complex, turn the outlet on to activate the motor.
Is this applicable for the Dooya DT82TV? because I have the same motor and I wish to use it. It is the same motor that @Chrismox have and I happen to have extra Sonoff Dual R3 I want to know if the wiring will be the same as shelly which he used.
Thanks
I will answer my own question, I have tried the Sonoff Dual R3 with the same wiring as @Chrismox and it worked also worth to mention that the motor will not work if the L wire is not connected, it should be connected.
the functionality of calibration in the eWelink app is not possible I donāt know why. But the main thing for me solved and now Iām enjoying the new curtain motor.
Thanks
Glad you got it working. Mine have been going for years now without any issues.
I have another question, with shelly 2.5 do you get the feedback of the current position? if so I will invest in a one to get the feedback working.
Thanks
You can calibrate the Shelly so that it knows the position of the curtains and this allows you to open them to a partial position, but it doesnāt actually know the current position, it just guesses based upon power consumption of the motor. See here - Redirecting...
I use Node-RED to keep track of the theoretical position (only open or closed in my case, no mid-position), but this isnāt flawless, it will be out of sync if I open the curtains manually rather than electrically.