Looks like with zigbee2mqtt the firmware OTA is supported, at least per the release note of 1.25.2
Anyone know if this has a āsmart bulbā mode where the relay doesnāt actually change the power state of the bulb?
Do you mean ādetached modeā (where toggling the switch is separated from toggling the relay)?
Yes! I think that is itā¦ a quick google seems to say the zbmini-l is not capable of this. To badā¦
I have installed my replacment device 3 days ago, (original device was doa). I needed to modify hole in my wall and go deeper inside of wall to put this device in, and i needed to cut 2 corners on housing so that now pcb stick outside but i have just enough space to jam this into wall. So this device its no so MINI. But other then that device work just fine inside HA using sonoff integration and sonoff zbbridge.
What load do you put on it? I found my led lights are still on (flickering) when the switch is turned off. Anyone else know how to solve this?
I have 5 9w led bulbs with samsung chip, something like this:
https://www.v-tac.eu/products-view/house-garden/led-bulb-samsung-chip-9w-e27-a58-plastic-6400k-detail.html
I did not see problems using this device
Ok, so 45 watt, that is significantly more than my 8 watt - anyone try a bypass on this switch?
I have now tested with only one 9w bulb and still i cant see any flickering (maybe iām just blind, I wear glasses though)
Maybe itās with the bulb itselfā¦? Maybe consider a different make/model of bulb and see whether the flickering persist?
But, wait - so far I assumed led bulbs, but then you said āled lightsā. So what kind of led light exactly you are using?
Not expert here. But I have seen YouTube videos suggesting adding a dummy load to the circuitā¦ Not sure how large the load should be, or how hot the load will becomeā¦ So if you plan to add something in the wall / in the ceilingā¦ please be careful.
Its a G9 fitting bulb - flickering is maybe not the right description. If its on then itās fine, when off the led continues to emit light although very very dim with a pulse. Will try with a bulb with a higher wattage.
No experience with the zbmin-L, but itās an old issue for no-neutral switches. They have to leak current, and some LEDs are sensitve enough to light up.
A different bulb can often resolve the issue. Higher wattage may not be necessary.
Lutron has shipped a fake-load cap with their Caseta no-neutral switch for years. My guess is the zbmini-l probably leaks less current than Caseta, but may still impact very sensitive loads.
I had the issue with older Philips bulbs in my recently purchased house. Swapped the bulb out and all is OK. The older Philips non-smart led bulbs were ā100 wattā equivalents, so Iām guessing they were 13-15 real watts. The replacements that worked were 8 watt leds.
I bought two ZBMINI-L and tried to make them work with two-way switches, but unfortunately they donāt work as expected. I wired them correctly but most of the time the physical switches donāt work but sometimes they do. Not reliable at all. Does anyone else have the same problem and is there a fix?
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Can you paste how you have wired the switch with a small Schema ?
Tried both schemes, both has the same effect; pushing the physical buttons sometimes works, but most of the times not.
The switches are connected like this:
Mine is wire like this :
And I have the update FW 1.1.1 on my ZBMINI-L
I have had it wired excactly like that. I donāt think the firmware is updated though, how did you manage to update it?
If i remember correctly Lin and S1 are connected together so it probably makes very little difference.
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Zigbee2MQTT propose me to update via OTA.
Updating the ZBMINI-L fixed my issue, thanks for pointing out to use Zigbee2MQTT for updating.
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