Thanks petro. I don’t have a voltimeter 
Will give it a go anyway. Need to find a spare remote. The small one which on my keyring will be too small I think to fiddle with. Would be best to go for a wall mounted remotei guess which is bigger
you can also use a copper wire to do the same thing
You’ll probably need that volt meter in continuity mode, or reading ohms. As a volt meter, it should act as an open circuit, reading the potential difference between the positive and negative leg of the circuit. I think your copper wire solution is probably the best way to go.
Hey everyone - in case you did not see the news - the decision has been made to remove MyQ from Home Assistant. I’m sorry it came to this, and I am sorry I could not find a longterm solution for you all - this is not how I wanted all of this to end up.
Chamberlain claims that third party applications like Home Assistant cause over half of their server load. Some integrations polled more frequently than we did and one of the first things I did when I took over was decrease our polling by 3-4 times.
Chamberlain could have easily resolved this by
a) talking to us
or
b) Releasing their mqtt protocol information. The device uses mqtt to communicate with their server, which if we had access to the mqtt topic, we would never need to poll, and we could simply just subscribe to the topic. It could be fully local, with 0 load on chamberlains server. Instead, they decided to spend who knows how much time and money trying to block us with cloudflare bot protection and firebase app check. Which leads me to believe that the server usage was not their problem and people getting around their app was their problem.
Ars Technica talked about this
Perhaps all of this publicity will change Chamberlains mind, but I wouldn’t hold my breath and I would look towards better solutions.
I jumped on the linkedin bandwagon like a few other users and posted my thoughts here if anyone is interested.
Again, I sincerely appologize I was not able to find a solid solution.
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Here’s a link to a video regarding the process from Bud’s Smarthome Youtube channel. https://youtu.be/_xrucvB537E?si=vJkQrfPlozyhxiZT
I used a spare Zooz Zen16 and connected it to a remote opener.
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I’m not clear on why people are attaching these to battery-operated remotes when this would be easier (and cheaper, given the comparative cost of the remote) to buy a simple Chamberlain wall push-button to solder to and wire it in at the opener in parallel to their existing wall button. I’ve done it this way and I don’t need to worry about the battery failing, etc.
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I have ordered the ratgdo v2.5 kit (on back order). My wall push-button IS battery operated and I am quite willing to get a second one for the specific purpose to connect the ratgdo. I am not very technical and I would greatly appreciated if you, or anyone else, could post a picture of how exactly connect the ratgdo to the Chamberlain wall push-button opener. I assume that the ratgdo will come with instructions on how to connect it to Wifi.
I am a newbie to this (my first time soldering anything). I had the Zooz, the soldering iron handy and i had stopped using the car remote opener d/t safety concerns. I only went this route because I use NFC tags to open my garage door. If you can point me to the other option(s) I would greatly appreciate it
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Been catching up on a lot of these comments and I wanted to say thank you to those of you who were kind enough to buy me a coffee and those of you who have been very kind and appreciative to me in this thread(and all the other threads)
Open source can be frequently be a lot of work and be met with people being rude or disrespectful. So it is always very nice to run into appreciative users.
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The ratgdo connects directly to the contacts on your opener. You don’t need to modify the push button at all. They include a wiring diagram, but I suspect there’ll be plenty of videos coming online soon as people get switched over to it.
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It’s a similar process – just instead of soldering to the button pads on the car remote, you get a button like the LiftMaster 883LM and solder to its button pads. Then you connect the screw terminals on the back to the appropriate terminals on the opener.
I did mine about 5 years ago and I didn’t take photos… I may be taking it down again to add something for the “light” button, so will take photos in that case.
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Thank you for doing this! I was able to build my own and it’s working great! I also learned a lot trying to debug it when I made mistakes. Really fun project.
Hey, I can help you if you haven’t figured this out. I can send you pictures of the one I did.
It’s an option in the Ratgdo software (and I’m guessing you can access it via HA - I haven’t tried)
I posted a photo a while back showing what’s needs to be done. Like doctorkb said it’s a similar process.
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Would this work as well ? 1pc Wireless Smart Wifi Light Switch, Compatible With Tuya Smart Life, Remote Control Module,temu
Aladdin Connect is unfortunately the same deal as myQ with a different name: cloud dependent and reverse engineered, hoping to fly under the radar of the powers that be.
At least it is still succeeding. 
I have a feeling that Aladdin is watching this unfold – they’ll either follow suit, or start marketing their products as being integrator-friendly.
Thanks so much for the info; i will try it. I recently transitioned to HA from Smartthings, so I went the route that had a tutorial.
I’m probably being really stupid and naive here, but is SwitchBot a viable option? I mean…don’t get me wrong, it’s not a cheap solution, but the wall controller (or garage remote) can be paired with a SwitchBot Bot, it’ll press the button…and…problem…sort of solved? I don’t mind tinkering as much as the next guy…I’m just trying to figure out what everyone is trying to work on with the ratgdo.
is it the garage state? if it is…then switchbot does have contact sensors…yea…I’m starting to hear it too…it’s almost like I got paid off by switchbot…I swear I’m not, I’m just trying to see if I’m not seeing what everyone else sees
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