With the added capabilities of Ratgdo you’ll be able to do all that without the cloud, except video and beeping (the latter is being implemented). I have my door setup in HA up and running again with the Ratgdo.
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That looks great. From looking at the schematic it seems pretty easy to run each of the four cables going directly into my Chamberlain to go into the input ports of the ratgdo and then four cables coming out of the ratgdo into the Chamberlain. I am excited to get it although it is back ordered. Having beeping is nice but not really necessary for me. If it is possible for me to do a fw update either hard wired or over the air I’ll definitely add that functionality when it is available. I just greatly miss HA’s REST API to open/close my garage. Shame on you MyQ! At least now I will have local control so this is an upgrade.
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Thanks. Wiring is straightforward. Basically, the board goes in series with the wall button and the obstruction sensors, plus ground.
Of the Ratgdo features so far what I’m finding most useful is the discrete control over the door position and the opener light.
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Just curiuous if you know more details how. Is it a seperate beeper in the ratgdo, or is it activating the built in beeper in the opener.
I have small kids and want to have some sort of warning and delay before closing. I posted in another thread the ul325 standard for doors also requires these warnings.
I was just going to install one of these and setup an automation for it.
From what I’ve read, this is being implemented using the “Time to Close” function that some of the wall controls have, so it would use the GDO’s beeper and light. Apparently setting a TTC of 1 sec activates the beeper – I’m not sure if doing that for 5 sec activates the beeper for 5 sec before closing.
Reference: Request: ability to control beeping · Issue #42 · ratgdo/esphome-ratgdo · GitHub
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As doctorkb says, it’s based on TTC commands. However, figuring it out is being surprisingly tricky.
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Wow what a crap company. Luckily I’m using their Home Bridge box paired directly with a HA HK controller so it’s not going through the API but I feel bad for everyone who’s been cut off by this greedy move. If the bridge ever dies I’ll be looking at ratgdo or similar.
the aggressive monitoring for bots only applies to the API they use for their own app, it is to avoid free use, can you release a version that works for accounts that are subscribed to the paid version? I have to subscribe anyways for Tesla integration
… that’s not how APIs work. No matter how we attempt to connect, our access will be blocked even if you pay for the MYQ tesla stuff.
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Well, went the YoLink route, altho I never really use HA for actual doors control, I did use the state and door monitoring and snapshots etc… Future plans did include having HA control the doors more, so I got the yolink finger and door sensor. Pretty impressive so far the response time is great, finger impressively works well… I have 2 doors, but just trying out with one… I had the Yolink outdoor temp sensor for pool so hub came with it… Now Im getting hungry for more yollink stuff, until they put a wall around there ecosystem 
Thanks for your efforts on this.
After months of frustration with MyQ, I’ve switched to Ratgdo which works perfectly and offline.
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For those of you who have received the Ratgdo and installed it, do you have any tips for easy installation? Any details would be greatly appreciated.
Also, any indications from Paul about HomeKit support?
Just follow the (current!) instructions.
Don’t google and find instructions for V1 and use it for V2.5 (I speak from experience).
Use a USB adapter and just plug it into the ceiling, don’t bother finding a voltage source. You CAN if you want, but it’s just not worth it, you almost certainly have an empty AC plug above the opener.
If you do these things it takes all of 10 minutes to do, most of which is getting out the ladder, stripping the wires and climbing up. It really could not be much easier.
Oh… I had an old small project box, I stuffed it inside after cutting a place for USB adapter on one side and write on the other, and double-sided-taped it to the back of the opener. Almost looks like part of it.
But seriously, as esp projects go, it cannot get much simpler.
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I thought I was going to be able to program a d1 mini using these instructions that worked flawlessly at my previous house, but that was not the case. Apparently you can’t just jump the two switch wires to control the door like you can on the non-smart garage door openers.
I thought maybe i could tell what was going on by opening the case up and checking out the board, but that was a waste of time. While I was putting the board back in, it must have shorted on something because there was definitely some magic white smoke!
Anyway, I was going to get a new smart opener by Genie, but decided to stick with the d1 mini route that has worked without any issues along with a non-smart
garage opener from Genie. Now I wont have to worry about if they’ll change their mind and cutoff 3rd party access.
The way they’ve positioned their “exclusive” protocol, I don’t think that’ll be long. My bet is they’re either walled off or belly-up within the next two years.
Done, thank you. I wish I remembered if I gave them a phone number before, frankly the delete request asked for a lot more info than they needed to just delete, I wonder if they now hold onto all that data as “proof we deleted your data”. Jerks.
Thank you.
I have made this contraption by soldering wires to the pushbutton contact points and attaching a zigbee relay to it. I have fitted 2 sonoff contact sensors in a weather proof case to the 2 gates. Seems to be working fine 
All controlled locally and not dependent on myq.
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Thanks! 20% sale on this now.
@jerrm can you link a light to the sensor to function as a indicator light of when the garage is fully passed the plane of the sensor and clear of the door?