I don’t know dutch but I’d say 2 W, with lag 
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Mini-formaat, lichtgewicht en ruimtebesparend. 2W laag stroomverbruik, energiebesparend
6€ is cheap enough to make a test in my opinion.
I was also considering the Sonoff switch. 26,90€ for a smart 4 channel switch is not bad.
You’re right. Maybe I’ll order one of each and compare.
2W for the no name is double as the 1W of that german actuator. But I’m not going to calculate the ROI. 
I have a question about the actual wiring… connecting the thermo-electric actuator to the Sonoff switch that will control it. I don’t feel comfortable and I want to avoid blowing things up and stuff.
My Sonoff has 4 channels, but I need to control 6 thermo-electric actuators. There is documentation with some basic wiring schemes which I do not know how to apply to my particular situation.
I have 240V as input. I guess I connect these wires to “N” and “L” on the input side. I guess that’s the easy part.
So how do I connect the thermo-electric actuator (AC 230V Normally Closed)? Do I connect one wire to “COM” and the other to “NC”? Apologies is that is a silly question.
Advanced question: if I want to control two (or three) actuators with one single channel, do I just connect the three wires of these actuators all to e.g. R1-COM?
Thanks a lot!
It sounds good except NC.
That means there wil normally flow current through the wires.
You probably want to use NO since that will be “off” normally.
And yes two or three in parallel will be fine. They are only two watts or something.
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Ok, so even though my actuator is “NC”, I should connect it to “NO”? It feels contra-intuitive.
Yes. They have different meaning.
NC in actuators mean the radiator will be normally closed (radiator off, pin pushed in).
NC with relays mean the contact is closed (current is flowing through the circuit, pin will be pulled back, radiator is on).
It will work, but backwards. So you will need to invert the switch in HA for it to work properly
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Ok, thanks. Will set up accordingly. Thanks!!
Hi everyone,
Today I had some time to tinker with my setup and ran into an issue with my electric thermal actuators.
I installed AC 230V NC M30 1.5mm actuators on my underfloor heating collector. They fit well, and when installed, the metallic pin is pushed down, which I assume means the valve is closed (blocking water flow).
I connected four of these actuators to a Sonoff 4CHPROR3 smart switch. Since I understand that these actuators respond slowly, I gave them plenty of time to react. However, nothing happened.
To troubleshoot, I tested different wiring configurations on four separate actuators:
- Connected to COM + NC, switch ON
- Connected to COM + NC, switch OFF
- Connected to COM + NO, switch ON
- Connected to COM + NO, switch OFF
In none of these cases did the metallic pin move back up, even after waiting more than an hour. The pipes remained cold.
Am I missing something? Do these actuators require a specific initial setup or longer activation time? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance! 
Mine just worked.
Keep in mind you need to have them turned on when you attach them to the pipes or the actuator will prevent you from screwing them on completely.
However… that should mean it would allow flow in the pipes.
Try an remove on or all and just connect them to mains directly with a mains plug.
Have you tried continuity checking the sonoff?
Edit:
According to this image it seems you should connect live on the common and one of the wires of the actuators to NO/NC.
Then the other actuator cable to neutral.
I didn’t know it had dry contacts…
Well thanks again!
Seems like I need to buy some more electrical equipment (such as screw terminals) to connect my actuators.
For what?
Either case. I suggest you get Wagos instead. They are better and easier to use.
I tried that valve. It will consume a large peak current when activated, up to 2A per valve. Do not use it; the will also malfunction over time. In the coming weeks I will mount this type of valve. You can find those valves on alibaba/aliexpress/amazon/etc. I have measured its inrush current, and it’s about 350mA. Of course I do not yet know how it will behave over time, but it ‘feels much better’.
2 A is 650W.
That is about as much as a toaster uses.
I have doubts about your measuring tool.
The ones that I bought is identical and never goes much above 2 W.
So somehow this version you found uses 300 times more in the same size.
Note that it is the 24VAC variant that takes 2A. So not 650W but about 48W 
And note that it is only the inrush current, after some seconds the current lowers until it reaches the specified 2W. But still; I could not believe it as well when I first measured it as well. If we have updated our installation, I will make a small video about the valves and currents, so you can see the exact effect.
So it’s not the same then?
ALL of them that was liked is 230v.
You just saw something that looked similar and it just had to be the same.
Right…
That valve also has a 24V variant. An example is for sale here: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005002361938528.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.727b4ecccJONx3&algo_pvid=65373b2d-77c6-4e8d-89d6-beadef67aded&algo_exp_id=65373b2d-77c6-4e8d-89d6-beadef67aded-1&pdp_ext_f={“order”%3A"83"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!16.76!16.19!!!131.45!126.98!%402103963717437485917013273eb4b4!12000020315620711!sea!NL!1868228086!X&curPageLogUid=zHfseaVa5hHg&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A. Or here:https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/4001282462024.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller.9.1014fUb9fUb9Ze&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=306dbf4b-b7a6-4948-9b18-845dad70add0&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:306dbf4b-b7a6-4948-9b18-845dad70add0,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238108%231977&pdp_ext_f={“order”%3A"75"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"sceneId"%3A"30050"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!5.38!5.19!!!42.20!40.71!%40211b430817437487008852593ea570!10000015593407505!rec!NL!1868228086!XZ&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller|query_from%3A. The last link sells also No.4. That’s the variant I have now. It seems better to me, and the inrush current is way lower. But I do not yet know if it will stop working over time (like the other did).
Any update on this? I have installed some valves from AliExpress, so far they work fine, but installaton is quite recent and I didn’t check power consumption. I need to purchase 12 more valves.
I meant wagos indeed, sorry that’s a translation issue.
I have connected everything as you suggested and it is working fine now. Thanks!
He’s using 24 volt version.
So it’s not the same.
Great that you got it working 