@raeppli since I have 2 modules like yours (single relay and external switch input), it would be great if you could post GPIO connections and template.
Many thanks.
Christian
I have this bulb https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000135882272.html , it seems to be non-esp chip, mac address starts with 28:6d:dc (Beijing Winner Microelectronics Co.,Ltd.)
Inside, it’s sealed with silicone
I proposed the changes as md to github now
@christian-0s Once blackadder updates this on the template page for MS-104 you will see the instructions - I hope.
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I have a similar switch and will use an ESP-M3 module to replace the WA2 module in there.
A while back I hacked a shutter controller that had the old Tuya module and in order to made the buzzer work I added a patch to Tasmota to allow using the buzzer command with the PWM1 output. My branch is here:
For those who want to see how I did it (I think it is rather detailed), here a link:
Note it will likely take you 0.5 - 1h per module to program, modify, test it.
It took me about 30’ average and I had 20 modules to optimize the process.
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Hi everybody,
Great info over here!
Having a great experience with an unbranded WiFi dimmer very easily converted to Tasmota with Tuya Convert OTA, I bought quite a few ($3.99 at that time) of these Moes MS-101 WiFi switches: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000281995.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dwm3yT2
To my surprise, I discovered that WA2 module inside is a different thing than our ESP8266, and found this thread.
I was able to follow the instructions above, steps were:
- I uploaded Tasmota on a NodeMCU
- I stripped the ESP8266/ESP12 module from the board - not the easiest thing to do, I used a soldering iron, precision knife and in the end forced it a little
- Unsoldered WA2 module off MS-101 board, this was quite easy
- Identified the VCC (3.3V) and GND pins on the WA2 module
- Tested all PWM pins on the MS-101 board by connecting them one by one to VCC, until relay is triggered - you can hear it clicking
- I did not pursue connecting the LED and switch to our ESP12 module, left them for later
- I made the wiring needed to enable ESP to boot, and connected VCC, GND and relay wires
- On powering on the board, ESP connected to my WiFi, all good
If someboody needs additional info on the procedure, just let me know and I can upload more details / wiring / specific photos. Thanks everybody for the details over here.
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I’ve done a module replacement on a completely unknown module/chip
Small tip mentioned in the article:
To anyone without a heat gun, here’s a quick and dirty way to remove a wifi module from the board:
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Another Tuya chip not compatible with Tasmota I bought recently off Ali: WB2S
I’m planning “organ transplant” with ESP-12F, can anyone confirm this pinout:
WB2S pinout:
Wel… small fix: Using : {“NAME”:“Moes MS-104”,“GPIO”:[0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,21,17,0,0,0],“FLAG”:0,“BASE”:1} instead you will not need the rule1 anymore, and switching will be faster (as fast as it can be - “it is what it is”)
I have this MOES switch with the same chip.
Did you manage to make the change of the chip?
@gmarquezp yes, I have successfully converter Tuya LoraTap 2 Gang WB2S to ESP-12F. I have not managed to put it together yet, but all works great.
edit: I have not tested these red and blue LEDs yet! I don’t really need them and less wires. 
edit2: LEDs working also!
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Just in case someone like me is looking for a device that switches with mais, I suggest the Loratap SC500W. Even thought it is initially intended for shutters. It will work just as @stosoorok’s device. But it already comes with an esp device. They now even have a esp category on their Aliexpress store which lists the devices that comes with it. Hope this info helps someone.
Thanks @51Acorsi! Looks like it has new 2nd version, if I select “ESP8285 inside” it’s still there, so this must be with ESP chip also.
Yes, that is the one I have. 2nd generation. I have currently 10 at home working for more than a month with zero issues. Esphome as firmware.
barely fits! excellent work!
Didn’t knew if you came any further but wanted to share my knowledge. You can actually pry the silicon a little bit and remove the top pcb. It’s been held by a little silicon on the edges and the 6 connector header. Just be careful with the pins, they bend easily. You can furthermore remove the chip inside with a solderstation. There are only 5 pins (if I remind that correctly) soldered to the pcb. It’s a pain to remove it, but once removed, just wire up a esp board to their corrosponding pins.
Hope this helped.
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i just bought 10 on this to convert my light of the house i tried tuya converter trying to to flash with tasmota guess what i hade 10 uselles pieces of hardware i don´t ave the knowledge to gange the chip o 10 of this devices i should go to shelly 2.5 
This is a different chip than what is originally being discussed in this thread. What you show is a TYWE2S. What this thread is about is called a WA2. They look to have the same form factor though, so maybe it’s just a different label?