My WB2S to ESP-12F swap is done now. I changed couple of GPIO-s for more compact wiring.
barely fits! excellent work!
Didn’t knew if you came any further but wanted to share my knowledge. You can actually pry the silicon a little bit and remove the top pcb. It’s been held by a little silicon on the edges and the 6 connector header. Just be careful with the pins, they bend easily. You can furthermore remove the chip inside with a solderstation. There are only 5 pins (if I remind that correctly) soldered to the pcb. It’s a pain to remove it, but once removed, just wire up a esp board to their corrosponding pins.
Hope this helped.
i just bought 10 on this to convert my light of the house i tried tuya converter trying to to flash with tasmota guess what i hade 10 uselles pieces of hardware i don´t ave the knowledge to gange the chip o 10 of this devices i should go to shelly 2.5
This is a different chip than what is originally being discussed in this thread. What you show is a TYWE2S. What this thread is about is called a WA2. They look to have the same form factor though, so maybe it’s just a different label?
The Tywe2s is actually an esp
My module is labeled MS-104 on the box. Chip is labeled Model: WA2, P/N 2.22.29.00001.
Main PCB is labeled Dz1WF1MdM V1.1 and the daughter board that holds the chip and relay is labeled Dz1WF1MdS V1.1. The left side of the daughter board has the 2 terminal for switching the relay’s 5v coil, and what appears to be an unpoppulated R13 and D5 (likely to be a LED that tells you when the coil is energized.
Pinout is 5 pins that I can see with labels hidden by the PCB. I cannot see the other side.
Images for reference:
Thanks for this. I’m going to try this today with two of my WB2L devices.
You’re welcome . Let us know the end result, if you plan on doing this any time soon
4USD? This is insane. Would’ve bought a couple myself. But swapping the modules is time consuming, so one has to add that to the cost…
Looks exactly like the ones I just modded. See Roger’s how to and his add-on reply (rule1 not req’d any more).
Tight fit, barely closing:
edit: this new-user-3reply-single-img restriction is ludicrous.
I’ve converted new moes WiFi+RF switch module to tasmota.
It has a WB2S chip. I think it’s a new version of WA2. I’ve changed it with an ESP01
I’ve upload my work here:
English is not my native language, I hope It is be readable by anyone.
good work on the pdf. i wonder if the tywe2s can work as a drop in replacement.
I see both modules are physically compatibles, so if you have a TYWE2S with Tasmota the template must work. But is TYWE2S cheaper and easy to buy than ESP?
Another device from ali with BK7231U… EnwYe Smart GU10
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000300642135.html
Modele ZZ-S15181
Is that any newer knowledge about the ‘new tuya’ chips?
Can be they flashed with ‘tasmota’? Without replacing them with ESP?
No, there is currently no alternative firmware, open source or otherwise.
Hello,
I have recently buy two MS-104B (MoesHouse) from chinese BG store.
Opened to change WB2S with BK7231 chip with ESP12 I have see this is connected to main board with 8 pin. Looking schema of jump board I see also the pin used are different.
From one side I have on main board +3.3V | GND | PWM 0 | PWM 2 |
Other side starting side of +3.3 I have RX | PWM 1 | PWM 5 | PWM 4 |
With a tester I have see:
the Relay 1 is commanded thrue PWM 0 (also I have a brief low level on PWM 5)
the Relay 2 is commanded thrue PWM 2 (also here a brief low level on PWM 4).
In next days I will try substitution, but my question is anyone have found what doing other pin except power supply and 2 command of relay?
And as reported in document reported by @Miguel_Alvarez on his post #72 there are module +RF: any info about this?
Hi Giovanni
I’ve also changed WB2S with ESP12 in this double relay model. I forgot to publish the document. Here it is:
I want to thank @whacky_wheel who sent me one of his modules after I burned mine
Has anyone replaced WB2S on sockets like this with power metering? As I understand it’s just a matter of correctly soldering PWM to PGIO and then mapping in tasmota for correct functionality?
Also a space seems to be quite tight, wondering if anyone managed to squeeze it in?