Unkown tuya chip

Hardware
50

I have a similar switch and will use an ESP-M3 module to replace the WA2 module in there.

A while back I hacked a shutter controller that had the old Tuya module and in order to made the buzzer work I added a patch to Tasmota to allow using the buzzer command with the PWM1 output. My branch is here:

51

For those who want to see how I did it (I think it is rather detailed), here a link:

Note it will likely take you 0.5 - 1h per module to program, modify, test it.
It took me about 30’ average and I had 20 modules to optimize the process.

9 Likes
52

Hi everybody,

Great info over here!
Having a great experience with an unbranded WiFi dimmer very easily converted to Tasmota with Tuya Convert OTA, I bought quite a few ($3.99 at that time) of these Moes MS-101 WiFi switches: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000281995.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dwm3yT2
To my surprise, I discovered that WA2 module inside is a different thing than our ESP8266, and found this thread.
I was able to follow the instructions above, steps were:

  1. I uploaded Tasmota on a NodeMCU
  2. I stripped the ESP8266/ESP12 module from the board - not the easiest thing to do, I used a soldering iron, precision knife and in the end forced it a little :smiley:
  3. Unsoldered WA2 module off MS-101 board, this was quite easy
  4. Identified the VCC (3.3V) and GND pins on the WA2 module
  5. Tested all PWM pins on the MS-101 board by connecting them one by one to VCC, until relay is triggered - you can hear it clicking
  6. I did not pursue connecting the LED and switch to our ESP12 module, left them for later
  7. I made the wiring needed to enable ESP to boot, and connected VCC, GND and relay wires
  8. On powering on the board, ESP connected to my WiFi, all good

If someboody needs additional info on the procedure, just let me know and I can upload more details / wiring / specific photos. Thanks everybody for the details over here.

2 Likes
53

I’ve done a module replacement on a completely unknown module/chip

Small tip mentioned in the article:

To anyone without a heat gun, here’s a quick and dirty way to remove a wifi module from the board:

1 Like
54

Another Tuya chip not compatible with Tasmota I bought recently off Ali: WB2S

I’m planning “organ transplant” with ESP-12F, can anyone confirm this pinout:

tuya_2gang_switch_module_pinout
tuya_2gang_switch_module_pinout2560×3222 319 KB

tuya_2gang_switch_module
tuya_2gang_switch_module2009×1883 383 KB

WB2S pinout:

wb2s-pinout
wb2s-pinout840×383 66.8 KB

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Wel… small fix: Using : {“NAME”:“Moes MS-104”,“GPIO”:[0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,21,17,0,0,0],“FLAG”:0,“BASE”:1} instead you will not need the rule1 anymore, and switching will be faster (as fast as it can be - “it is what it is”)

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I have this MOES switch with the same chip.

Did you manage to make the change of the chip?

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@gmarquezp yes, I have successfully converter Tuya LoraTap 2 Gang WB2S to ESP-12F. I have not managed to put it together yet, but all works great.

IMG_3893
IMG_38931920×1440 190 KB

IMG_3895
IMG_38951920×1440 222 KB

loratap2g
loratap2g441×869 37.3 KB

edit: I have not tested these red and blue LEDs yet! I don’t really need them and less wires. :slight_smile:

edit2: LEDs working also!

2 Likes
58

Just in case someone like me is looking for a device that switches with mais, I suggest the Loratap SC500W. Even thought it is initially intended for shutters. It will work just as @stosoorok’s device. But it already comes with an esp device. They now even have a esp category on their Aliexpress store which lists the devices that comes with it. Hope this info helps someone.

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Thanks @51Acorsi! Looks like it has new 2nd version, if I select “ESP8285 inside” it’s still there, so this must be with ESP chip also.

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Yes, that is the one I have. 2nd generation. I have currently 10 at home working for more than a month with zero issues. Esphome as firmware.

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My WB2S to ESP-12F swap is done now. I changed couple of GPIO-s for more compact wiring.

IMG_3942
IMG_39421920×1546 347 KB

IMG_3943
IMG_39431920×1795 313 KB

1 Like
62

barely fits! excellent work!

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Didn’t knew if you came any further but wanted to share my knowledge. You can actually pry the silicon a little bit and remove the top pcb. It’s been held by a little silicon on the edges and the 6 connector header. Just be careful with the pins, they bend easily. You can furthermore remove the chip inside with a solderstation. There are only 5 pins (if I remind that correctly) soldered to the pcb. It’s a pain to remove it, but once removed, just wire up a esp board to their corrosponding pins.

Hope this helped.

1 Like
64

i just bought 10 on this to convert my light of the house i tried tuya converter trying to to flash with tasmota guess what i hade 10 uselles pieces of hardware i don´t ave the knowledge to gange the chip o 10 of this devices i should go to shelly 2.5 :frowning:

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This is a different chip than what is originally being discussed in this thread. What you show is a TYWE2S. What this thread is about is called a WA2. They look to have the same form factor though, so maybe it’s just a different label?

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The Tywe2s is actually an esp :slight_smile:

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My module is labeled MS-104 on the box. Chip is labeled Model: WA2, P/N 2.22.29.00001.

Main PCB is labeled Dz1WF1MdM V1.1 and the daughter board that holds the chip and relay is labeled Dz1WF1MdS V1.1. The left side of the daughter board has the 2 terminal for switching the relay’s 5v coil, and what appears to be an unpoppulated R13 and D5 (likely to be a LED that tells you when the coil is energized.
Pinout is 5 pins that I can see with labels hidden by the PCB. I cannot see the other side.

Images for reference:

[8 new photos added to shared album] WA2 in MS-104 Single Relay Module
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Thanks for this. I’m going to try this today with two of my WB2L devices.

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You’re welcome :smiley: . Let us know the end result, if you plan on doing this any time soon