Not yet, I have traced the pinout to the edge connector as best I can with everything covered with white silkscreen and the labels on the edge connector seem to be correct.
The RST terminal is connected to Pin 9 of the ESP and I have to check if this pin is pulled up on he module or if I need to do that as the ESP32 data sheet shows it as a chip enable.
A friend with a wechat account is going to ask sparkeiot for some info.
It connects fine to the other Unifi AP which happens to be on an older firmware, the one that doesn’t work is up to date. I have never had this issue with any other Esphome device but all have been ESP8266.
My mate got a pinout diagram from Sparkleiot but the manual they provided was for a different module.
Hi guys, any advice on how can i desolder this wb2l in an encased silicone?
Normally, if i apply some heat gun, it would take less than 30 seconds (with the pcb removed) to remove the tuya module.
But this one is not budging even with 1 minute and slightly more, i’ve failed with my first attempt since i accidentally ripped off the pads.
So i’m trying to be extra cautious this time
I’ve also just purchased the Moes Smart Garage Door Opener (Aliexpress) and they’ve changed the model number to MS-102. Inside it contains the WB2S chip which is not flashable to my knowledge.
Deslodered it and ordered a few TYWE2S from one seller, and ESP-02S chips from another to try and replace it with and hopefully load tasmota onto it.
Cloud clutter was a coordinated release, Tuya was informed of the exploit beforehand (and actually paid a bounty over it) and has already patched it before the exploit was released to the public. So unless you are still on older firmware, it won’t work.
I was interested to see this Moes WiFi Smart Switch with a model number as posted in
I ordered one though Ali Express last June. but only tried to pair it last month. It has no model number and is very different. After many pairing failures with Smart Life I was able to get it to pair when only 50 cm from the router. After pairing I got a firmware update notification, but it didn’t complete and after powering off and on again, it will not pair and remained offline.
I suspect the firmware is corrupted and have been looking to see if there is a way I can try to update the firmware, or use other firmware. Updating this type of firmware is new to me and I have just acquired a CH340 USB to Serial adapter. My problem is that the WA2 chip seems to be less common than those on Sonoff and there is no simple way to plug in or attach a header. This brought me to this page that has information about it incuding a photo of the back side of the WA2 in post No. 6 that is identical to my device.
I am now looking for pointers on how to proceed to connect to the device and what to do after that. I would be satisfied to restore the original firmware, but Moes ignores requests to provide information about it, or the pinout.
There is no need to swap WB2L in smart light bulbs.
I have added RGBCW support (compatible with Home Assistant - using rgb_command_template,brightness_command_topic, color_temp_command_topic ) to my OpenBK7231T (supports both BK7231T and BK7231N and partially XR809 - so WB3S, WB2L, etc etc modules): https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/viewtopic.php?p=19938487#19938487
You can easily flash my Tasmota replacement on WB*/BK7231* chips with simple USB to UART converter.
I2C dimming support is also on the way. I have already working I2C drivers for TC74 and MCP23017 chips. Much more to come soon.
So don’t worry about WB2S chips, they are compatible with Home Assistant right now, no need to desolder and swap with ESP.
If you have some device with WB2S/WB3S/smth similiar (BK7231N or BK7231T) etc etc and want to have it supported by Home Assistant directly please send me PM on forum above, I am preparing templates for more and more devices constantly.
Flashed some of the switches with openbkt.
I left one to do a swap with the esp32-c3-c05, it’s doable
not quite the perfect fit since the pin have more gaps because it doesn’t have extra pin on the side
had some brownout error logs since powering it via uart 3.3v wasn’t enough so i just hooked to main to configure the gpio pins