No problem to use this thread/forum, glad if I can be of any help as I myself profited a lot form other user’s experiences. Now your post raises a number of questions/subjects.
First, the rule 1:0. My understanding of this rule (but that’s why I still recommend addressing the Victron user community directly - https://community.victronenergy.com/index.html) is that the Victron inverter/charger, in this case the Multi RS, needs to be able to absorb the extra power (current peak and eventually voltage peak) if, when the batteries are almost charged, the consumer loads being fed by the grid-tied-inverter, the Fronius, suddenly go from maximum to minimum such as for instance your heat pump which was on full power stops because target temperature was reached. The Victron senses that and increases the frequency on the output to “tell” the Fronius to stop producing but even if electronics are fast real-life is faster and the Fronius will still over produce for a small time during which the Victron needs to be able to absorb that extra load otherwise over-current and problem. Now, since you Multi RS has its own set of panels connected to it, it could be that its current load is already taken up by these leaving no overhead to absorb the overload from the Fronius. Maybe I got it all wrong and if that’s the case please excuse me but if I were you I’d just research this topic to be sure all is going to be ok. The 1:0 rule was there for the world of combined grid-tied inverters and inverter/charger like “traditional” set-ups. The Multi RS is new, so better safe than sorry…
Second, the noise. My Multipluses, all 3 of them, are installed in the technical room inside the house together with electrical, HVAC, domestic hot water, server, router and switches. There is some noise and the Multis are not the worst offenders but with the door closed barely audible. Just measured and Multis’ SPL is 58dB(A) whereas the server is 64 (it is a 1U with small fans, bad choice). After 1 year living in the house what I have learned is that the issue is not the noise but the heat. 3 inverter/chargers + 2 grid-tied inverters and the batteries do produce heat and whereas that is good in the winter it is not in the summer so I have a medium term plan to move the PV installation out to a shed by the still-to-be-constructed carport and get rid of the heat generation. Cabling is already in place as I figured I’d need something like that in the future when I laid out the cable runs.
But the real point is the Multi RS. I believe it is a very elegant solution as it combines everything under one roof but you may be right that it is still in its infancy. Nevertheless, Victron is a serious company and will not let you high and dry and you will be acquiring tomorrow’s tech rather than today’s. It’s all about choice and it’s good you have it.
Third you are absolutely right, it doesn’t make sense to talk about consumption without taking into account the type of construction. From what I understand your’s is planned to be energy efficient. Just for info, mine is located on the Spanish Mediterranean coast and is built to PassiveHaus standards and due to orientation, openings, and insulation it has zero need for heating energy in winter and requires about 10W/m2 of cooling power in summer plus about 1W/m2 dehumidification power in summer. The house is 360m2 floor so that means roughly short of 4kW cooling power on the hottest days. Of course this need varies during the day/months and the theoretical result for cooling energy requirements is in the order of 14kWh/m2 per year (from mid-May to early-September) which adds to about 5MWh/year. Comparatively the heating energy requirements is zero as said because of the orientation and building envelope characteristics. These numbers are normal when you follow PassivHaus standards and build in this area. Of course, if your winters are colder you’d need more heating but less cooling energy but one should balance the other. If you’re interested browse through Energy efficiency of the Passive House Standard: Expectations confirmed by measurements in practice [Passipedia EN]
As I guess you are in France and if you’re interested in a 3rd pair of eyes I can recommend a very competent architect that can advise you without being intrusive and respecting the relation you already have with your own architect. I did that myself and it was oh so useful! http://www.visionhabitats.fr
The best thing about PassivHaus standards (and mind you, it is not magic, some countries already have new construction standards which are close to PH but Spain definitely not) is not so much in the energy savings but above all the comfort. Constant temperature, equal throughout the house and through the year, no drafts, the first time you experience it you have a strange feeling of wellbeing difficult to explain. And then, when you go back to your old house that you thought was well insulated and had those good double-pane windows you notice how uncomfortable it was!
But I digressed here and the point is that you should be aiming for around 15kWh/m2 per year space heating energy requirement which in your case with 170m2 is less than 3MWh per year. Happy to discuss further if you’re interested.
Finally, a word on production. PVGIS is an absolute place to go for estimates and the numbers they give are a good starting point. The reality is that the sun insists on a 24h cycle and that’s where it gets complicated. Monthly or even weekly production figures are useful for PV power plants and a guideline for a private PV installation but they don’t take you from day to day. Below the daily forecast from the last 6 months
Yes, it goes all over the place and those troughs, black or grey days, that’s when the batteries and the generator are needed. Because of the panel orientation (full south, 35 degrees to horizontal) the highest daily energy production is expectedly in April, with winter months quite good, when the sun shines. And this is the Spanish coast where people will tell you there’s always sun and never rain! Trust me, climate perception is just that, perception and if you want to be self-sufficient and still cook that canard à l’orange in your oven in winter you either a) will thank the public grid or b) will need many more batteries than you’re planning.
Seriously, when I was planning for my installation about 4 years go I used climate records for the area going back all the way 25 years and statistically, there are never more than 3 black days in this area. As you’ll see from the graph, this winter we had a full 2 weeks where production was so low that the generator had to come on almost every day. And it doesn’t help to just add batteries because there’s no sun to charge them either or you have to add panels etc.
So my humble advice is:
- Do your research as well as you can, and you’re definitely already doing it, and come up with your baseline scenario,
- Increase your baseline consumption by 20 to 30% and decrease baseline production by another 20 to 30% and see what it means - how does your installation cope with that? Those are first-level buffers to dampen short term unexpected variations, which will happen for sure,
- Create a design where you have already planned for extension - technical room space, roof size or ground panel structures, batteries and battery chargers, cabling or at least cable runs,
- Decide on your design, get it up and running, kill any bugs and live with it for at least 1 year. Collect all data including statistical cost savings so you know the ROI of your installation,
- After 1 year, compare plan and results, and decide whether you’re happy, or if you need an upgrade,
- Carefully balance simplicity/cost/innovation. Not in your case but if you’re going to rely on your installation being up to have lights, open the door, hot water for the shower, basic stuff, you don’t want to cut corners or be at the cusp of newness.