That photo (in my previous post) is the board shown on the last page of the certification documentation for the Sonoff Basic (links found in previous posts). Given that it does not match the production version of the device, it diminishes the validity of the issued certificate. Generally speaking, you assume the certification is for the device you purchased and not an earlier version made in a significantly different way.
Anyway, by this point it should be clear that the Sonoff Basic has significant flaws and you should know how to mitigate them to avoid potentially disastrous consequences.
I believe that photo may be the new v2 Sonoff Basic
But I could be wrong. I do know however that he basic has been changed to use heavy gauge wire instead of the ‘heavy’ solder tracks it had before.
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion including you and I am not saying you are wrong it right but you do seem to be downtalking the Sonoff line alot in this thread. I also see no need to say that the Sonoff line of products will kill people who look at them funny. Personally if your happy using a product then use it and understand any possible risks associated with it.
Shelly 1 or 2 looks like a sonoff in a smaller form factor, with maybe more security concern, but it’s not solving pilotwire problem as we need to alter signal to send different orders. After some googling we can find several zwave clone (fibaro, qubino) and every one who’s trying to work with this pilotwire add this 1n4007 diode.
Not sure what you mean by ‘security concern’
I think the biggest problem is that as soon as you try and modify a PCB you’re going to be increasing the risk significantly, it’s incredibly easy to cause a track to lift this in turn will most likely lead to electrical failure.
What’s really required is a 1N4007 with some nice screw terminals.
No mistakes in installation, you just cannot draw too many amps (16 amps is too much for these devices. I used these to measure power usage of washer and dryer).
Today the PCB are more than one layer. When you cut a PCB in that way, there is a risk to make a short between the the PCB layers, because now there is a small gap between layers no supposed to be exposed, due layers bending while cutting, or conductive leftovers.
Glass fuses could be used with a load that doesn’t draw much current (like a light) and it will work well. For anything higher current better is HRC fuses.
It’s not just the load current you have to consider. It’s also the fault current.
Most domestic breakers have a 16A trip but the instantaneous fault current from a dead short can be kAmps due to the extremely low impedance of the mains supply and finite activation time of the breaker.
