@GadgetUK hope this will be more clear :
@Yuran : are Shelly 2 compliants with FR electric code ? I’m not sure we can use them to give order to the pilotwire without hack as long as they remain “classic” switches.
Ce branded yes. Look at this video to clarify the pilot wire. Not much electrician but the sw relay must be about the same. Note that srter this video was made the Shelly has got mqtt support
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Looks nice.
Now with mqtt itworksvery ok and easy to integrate. Also Shelly 2 and the humidity sensor worksf flawless
For the first question there is a post with an answer already. For your comment, well it depends, I haven’t seen those object inside, they may be safe or may be dangerous. I am sure that the Sonoff Basic is NOT the only dangerous product sold in the Home Automation business.
The Shelly look safe to me: but for sure they should only be installed inside a power socket or a proper casing.
But again I do not have a laboratory testing equipment, so I can’t swear on their safety in regards of what happens in case of a short circuit, or a high load.
Nothing further to add. You clearly are of the opinion that yours is the only correct opinion.
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Google it. Mentioned four times on its manual page that it should be protected by a 10A fuse, and that is without downloading the pdf manual files.
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What do you think of the Shelly product? I use them (only as Relay, minimal load), although I am not sure: look at the size of the L and N screws and sockets, they allow only little copper, and they are soooo close.
Ok. Not seeing it myself (poor Google skills).
However in this use case a 10A fuse would make little difference
If you look at the many videos and posts, made by hobbyists and fans, for the Sonoff Basic, it’s often portrayed as a cheaper alternative to devices from name-brand manufacturers like, for example, TP-Link, Wemo, etc. In other words, it is placed in the same category as devices that do meet national electrical codes. People’s perception of this device is that it is equivalent, in all respects, to other smart switches.
TP-Link HS105 (North American) specifications (120 VAC, 15 A, UL certification):
For all the reasons I and others have already explained, the Sonoff Basic is not in the same category; it lacks basic safeguards. Using it “wisely” would mean adding those missing features.
Generally speaking, the weakest point in a household electrical circuit should be the circuit-breaker. It’s intended purpose is to limit the amount of current so that nothing else, on that circuit, fails catastrophically (i.e. catch fire). That’s why for the North American market, where most circuits are protected by a 15 A breaker, electrical appliances are typically rated to operate at 120 VAC and pass up to 15 A. In other words, a time-plug, table-lamp, toaster, etc are all designed to handle up to 15 A. They don’t need their own fuse because if more than 15 A is drawn (i.e.you accidentally short-circuit the appliance), the circuit-breaker trips.
Now imagine a time-plug that is only rated to handle 10 A. Effectively, it is now the weakest point in the circuit (because the circuit-breaker trips at 15 A). That’s why it is suggested to include a 10 A fuse, inline with the Sonoff Basic, so the fuse serves as the weakest point in the circuit.
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Agreed on all your post.
That now makes me think how unsafe the Shelly 2 or the Zwave mini from previous posts are (rated 10A). Both to be put behind power socket. Shelly 2 with its power metering abilities is clearly not marketed for triggering lights but for power sockets which is dangerous.
Shelly 1 is rated 16A so should be OK.
I looked through the documents again and still have trouble finding test results for all the parameters you listed. I’d also like to draw your attention to the last page (pg 53) of this document: BCTC-FY180100467-2E-EMC-report_Sonoff-Basic-RF.pdf.
It displays a photo of the test-unit’s PCB. There’s a significant difference in its design compared to a production unit (photos posted earlier in this thread). It uses, what appears to be, heavy-gauge insulated wires for the mains supply (yellow wires in photo). In production units, the main supply runs through wide traces directly on the PCB. That’s a significant difference and, even if they had tested all the parameters you listed, it stands to reason they’d need to re-certify the new design.
Or do those wires exist in the production version and have completely burnt away in the photos posted earlier in this thread???
Small rant about insurance.
FYI, insurance pays out for ignorance otherwise they’d never pay out. You add too many extension cords and it burns down your house. They pay. You put a kerosene heater next to your curtains, they pay. You leave a fireplace unattended and it jumps out to the carpet, they pay. Get where I’m going with this? Please don’t say insurance won’t pay because it’s not certified this is absolutely not true. Most certifications are for the company to sell the product, not for you to use it. You can go on Amazon and buy thousands of items that are not certified, as a consumer there is no way for you to know or care about this. There are zero examples of insurance not paying out because an item wasn’t certified.
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That photo is not a production sonoff basic.
That would be a Sonoff RF module.
No it isn’t.
Your right, when I look closer it doesn’t match the current sonoff RF board. Wonder what board this is.
That photo (in my previous post) is the board shown on the last page of the certification documentation for the Sonoff Basic (links found in previous posts). Given that it does not match the production version of the device, it diminishes the validity of the issued certificate. Generally speaking, you assume the certification is for the device you purchased and not an earlier version made in a significantly different way.
Anyway, by this point it should be clear that the Sonoff Basic has significant flaws and you should know how to mitigate them to avoid potentially disastrous consequences.
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I believe that photo may be the new v2 Sonoff Basic
But I could be wrong. I do know however that he basic has been changed to use heavy gauge wire instead of the ‘heavy’ solder tracks it had before.
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion including you and I am not saying you are wrong it right but you do seem to be downtalking the Sonoff line alot in this thread. I also see no need to say that the Sonoff line of products will kill people who look at them funny. Personally if your happy using a product then use it and understand any possible risks associated with it.
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