Shelly 1 or 2 looks like a sonoff in a smaller form factor, with maybe more security concern, but it’s not solving pilotwire problem as we need to alter signal to send different orders. After some googling we can find several zwave clone (fibaro, qubino) and every one who’s trying to work with this pilotwire add this 1n4007 diode.
Not sure what you mean by ‘security concern’
I think the biggest problem is that as soon as you try and modify a PCB you’re going to be increasing the risk significantly, it’s incredibly easy to cause a track to lift this in turn will most likely lead to electrical failure.
What’s really required is a 1N4007 with some nice screw terminals.
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I had two Sonoff POW’s go up in flames. I too don’t trust these devices anymore.
Ohh can you elaborate, is it possible that you did some mistakes in the installation, or is 100% fault of the items?
I do have around 10 POW and POW R2, I am very interested in your comments
No mistakes in installation, you just cannot draw too many amps (16 amps is too much for these devices. I used these to measure power usage of washer and dryer).
I see, I propose each of us to write to the regulators of your country and ask to ban this company from selling their high voltage products.
It’s ridiculous how they lie to the public, with lies that can kill people.
Today the PCB are more than one layer. When you cut a PCB in that way, there is a risk to make a short between the the PCB layers, because now there is a small gap between layers no supposed to be exposed, due layers bending while cutting, or conductive leftovers.
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So basically for the peace of mind, it would be good to add the fuse for the sonoff basic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JTWHYX/ and add it to the box with wire clamps https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-ip66.html and use it only to control some LED lights, so not to overload it?
Or you could just smother them is this home made fireproof putty:
(Don’t do this).
Edit, also use HRC fuses not the glass 3AG types linked above.
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I have 5 shelly. Use themas light switches. No problem. Will use a couple for infrared heating panels now
Glass fuses could be used with a load that doesn’t draw much current (like a light) and it will work well. For anything higher current better is HRC fuses.
It’s not just the load current you have to consider. It’s also the fault current.
Most domestic breakers have a 16A trip but the instantaneous fault current from a dead short can be kAmps due to the extremely low impedance of the mains supply and finite activation time of the breaker.
Or you use small auto-resetting circuit breakers inline with the supply to the Sonoff so you don’t have to replace fuses
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Watch the overload trip time. Circuit breakers can sustain a very high overload before tripping compared to fast blow fuse.
You need to remember to pair amps with voltage. A better idea would be to look at wattage rating
W = V x A
120v 10A = 240v 5A = 1200W
No.
The relay and PCB tracks are rated for a maximum current carrying capacity (10Amps).
As Nick noted, The 10 amp rating means 2400W is fine in Australia on a 240V circuit but not on a 120V circuit in the US.
SOME sonoffs have been tested and passed in Victoria by Oikotec. I’m not sure if they are modified at all to pass, or if they are standard as shipped from China. Certified devices are TH10, TH16, Dual and POW. NOT BASICS.
From what I can gather, if it is certified in one state then all states honour it.
I wouldn’t trust these cheap devices with inductive loads. A lot of the ‘smart plugs’ in aus are rated for 10A resistive load (2400W), but not inductive. I wanted to put one on my air compressor but have decided not to for this exact reason.
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Another reason not to use the Basic or S20 is that the wifi in the first gen is terrible. Lots of dropped packets. The POW 2 and S26 do not suffer from this.