Sounds like something Asus specific. Any decent wifi network will do this seamlessly without any “AIMesh”. Example from Unifi:
That’s because unifi system creates a mesh automatically when you add unifi device. Try to add another brand, then things will be different.
When adding a new device at asus system also automatically “see” a new device and recommends to be added to existing AiMesh (if device is AiMesh capable, not all are).
There’s no mesh in my network. I have the option to enable the access points to mesh (not using a cable to communicate) but I don’t use that. If you mix devices sure, but I was under the impression that you only used Asus devices.
I guess that you have something similar as i have in asus: “smart connect rules”, where i can set when device is dropped and passed to another device. It acts similar as mesh, but mesh has some additional things, i guess.
When i was referring to “AP mode” i was talking about “stupid” AP system, used when cheap or no-name devices are used as AP’s.
Here are rules for 2.4/5GHz switching for example (which i don’t recommend to use):
Lol, I though you had a “Nano HD KryptoLoft” where you stacked your Krypto-Dollars 
I know now ( Im Danish ) as you might know
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Hehe 
Not that exciting, just a regular crawlspace
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Yeah, but that’s where I disagree. Meshing has nothing to do with roaming in my mind.
I’m thinking it’s just Asus’ way of levitating buzzwords like “AI” and “Mesh”.
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I think there are some terminology issues in this thread. It is my understanding that you do in fact have a mesh network if you have multiple APs using same SSID(s) and your devices can easily roam from on AP to another. That check-box you showed turns on “Wireless Meshing”, it does not turn on/off meshing in general. If you have a wired backhaul between multiple APs all broadcasting same SSID(s), then you have a wired mesh. I have a Unifi system also.
If you have multiple APs that are each broadcasting different SSID, then that wouldn’t be a mesh and it would be hard for your devices to switch APs as they move thru your house.
Additionally, some people have mentioned that they have multiple router/APs but I don’t believe that is correct either. There is not typically a router attached to each AP nor can “router” and “AP” terms be used interchangeably.
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Yes, there might be some confusion and different uses of terminology. Mesh has been a buzzword some years, and my impression is that it defines the option of placing “satellites” (access points) that communicate wirelessly with each other to extend the range. Roaming between access points with the same SSID is something that has been common in the Enterprise /SMB markeds for many years, and as far as I know it’s never been referred to as “mesh”. As I said earlier, I might be wrong about how I look at “mesh” wifi though
This is most likely referring to router devices set in AP or “AIMesh” mode. They have the routing capability stand alone, but you can configure them to work as as access points (turning of DHCP and so on).
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For me, a mesh was annoying because I wanted to set the nodes up myself. All the mesh does is make the things auto-work together. You need to look at how a single one works and if it is good, then meshing then is fine. I use Asus routers with Merlin firmware. It is semi-open source (they get some locked in things from Asus themselves for proprietary items) and it is kept up to date with features the stock firmware doesn’t have. There are routers that mesh if you want that with the Merlin software. Has never let me down.
As already explained above, i said “router” because i have in fact router (rt-ac86), it’s just that asus routers (and i’m sure others, too) can be set up as router, as wireless AP or as wired AP. I still cal it “router” however, device in that case doesn’t act like one.
Perhaps someone would say it’s a waste of money to buy a router and then use it as AP…
Same here. I’ve been in networking for 30 years and I’ve never heard “mesh” applied to multiple APs with the same SSID.
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This is my main concern, because I have a Linksys WRT54GL, a Sitecom 150N and a Linksys WRT54GC, they are all capable of “extending” the wifi but they are creating their own SSID and subnet.
So right now, to “solve” my problem I have WiFi-2.4-C6C4 (192.168.0.1/24), the Box one, WiFi-2.4-C6C4-Basement (192.168.1.1/24) and WiFi-2.4-C6C4-Attic (192.168.2.1/24) (and the same apply for the 5.0). That is pure crap.
My phone is setup to know the 3 and connect automatically but it is staying on a very weak WiFi-2.4-C6C4-Attic when I’m in the basement 
Yeah that’s not ideal! If you go for Unifi gear this is not a problem. For refence I have a UDM (built in access point) in my first floor, a Nano HD and a U6 Lite in the second story (at opposite sides of the house) and a regular Lite in my detached garage. Great coverage even in the basement.
I’ll look at this and also the TP-Link Omada.
I don’t see why the Linksys devices need to use layer 3. APs don’t have to be routers. I have 2 Ubiquiti lite APs with the same SSIDs and no controller and they work fine. They just pick different channels. Your devices will select the best signal.
The devices are originally routers so layer 3. But you can configure them as AP but they continue to act as routers, I tried upcycling my old materials but it was not a success 
Yes, but you don’t have to use the router functionality. They route between LAN and WAN ports. Just don’t use the WAN port. Disable DHCP and plug your existing network into a LAN port and the AP will just perform WIFI on the existing network as its already on the LAN side. What router subnet is defined becomes moot as nothing exists to route. The biggest issue with this is that the layer 3 interface becomes the web management IP, but you can get around that by simply using a free IP from your current layer 3 network, of if that’s not feasible, adding a secondary IP network to whatever device you want to manage the configuration from.
It’s been years since I touched a Linksys router, but I used to run an old WRT54G in this fashion before I bought the Ubiquiti APs in 2016.
I thought that I tried that and it was not working. But I just did it again and it is working on the Sitecom 150N. No more GUI to configure it but I can undo/redo when needed.
But I’ll need something more robust than those small old routers anyway, so still investigating.
So, you had decent WiFi before now? Does your router have ethernet ports (i.e. a built-in switch)? Get a WiFi access point and test different placements of it where you can get Ethernet cable.
As I said, if the service is split as is typical in the U.S., the incoming service is 220V with one side of the breaker box providing 110V and the other side providing 110V. Network over powerline generally can’t cross-over.
If it’s behind the walls, who cares? I drill a 3/4" hole for Ethernet cables, but if you can terminate the RJ-45 connector then a 1/2" hole will work. My holes are NEVER straight, but as long as they are not so exaggerated that they come out of the opposite wall- who cares?
If it’s your home then I would recommend one of two solutions.
1- Buy a decent hammer-drill. Masonry bits won’t go through concrete as you have discovered.
2- Pay a cable installer to run the Ethernet cable for you. Run one from each floor to your router location, then any WiFi AP device on each floor should solve all of your WiFi problems.
The cost may be the same either way.
Are the walls hollow? Like as in cinderblock?
Waste of money. Unshielded CAT5e or CAT6 will easily handle gigabit data.
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