That’s illustrates my point. The terminology is confusing. I’m not in IT, just a hobbyist, but I have predominantly heard that a mesh is only if the nodes are connected, preferably wired, and devices can easily roam among the APs. Additionally, I don’t understand, whether the APs connected wired or wirelessly, changes the basic operation of the multiple AP system to the clients other than speed available.
No, it was crap but better than with the new fiber box. But also I’ve added a 2nd floor to the house and that floor did not get any wifi, neither now nor before.
No, I’m in Belgium, we have roughly 220V and it is not splitted, I moved my Devolo and everywhere is reachable.
It is the opposite of hollow 
10 inches of vibrated reinforced concrete, the one with iron grid inside. See it as a bunker, it is the closest image I can use.
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That was the time to run conduit. Future Proofing.
So, tornado-proof?
The last resort would be to run the Ethernet on the outside walls.
What if you want 10 gbit compatibility? CAT5e vs CAT6 is not a huge price difference.
CAT6 bit harder to bend round corners.
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Maybe but to go to the outside is the same concrete deal.
And you know, there is a staircase but it is like at the opposite of my ISP box in my house.
I’ve pulled CAT6A everywhere in my house, not a big issue in my opinion. At least not big enough to drop it and go for 5e 
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Hi Olivier,
I’m using omada 2 sw 4 ap with 10g backbone I don’t use free’s delta services but DNS.
It’s working fine
Filou
ps:
il m’arrive de parler Français 
If you can plan for Cat6 and fit it ,go for it. Think twice and cut once.
I brought my Cat 5e down the back of the stairs and a few tight corners. It was tough work but when plaster board fixed you couldn’t see the repairs. I did use Cat6( UV protection as went outside) for the cameras but they were relatively straight bits.
I have a mix of both, but in a residential setting shielded cable is quite unnecessary overkill.
Not if you want 10gbit.
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That’s quite easy to resolve without touching it again. As I mentioned before, you could have given it an unused IP in your current subnet while making the change, but if you didn’t you can always reach it no matter what IP it has as long as it’s in the same layer 2 network your workstation/browser is in. If you’re interested in how to do that let me know. You can use the same instructions for any device you add to your network that has a static IP that isn’t in your DHCP subnet.
I Don’t know where you got the idea that i care of have “issues” i responded to Olivers experience
I have hole 4 times bigger, hardly ever “Straight” not even through hollowed plaster walls ( however only ones i kept Drilling , until i realized i was “off margins” so i was drilling inside the wall beneath(that why the drill “never turned up” where it supposed to)
And honestly, i don’t find any reason to commend the rest of your “Totally Misunderstood Rant”
What ?, did someone peed in your bed last night ?
BTW, yes most of my cables are Unshielded, only have 2 older shielded CAT5e, that i happened to get from the Job , but that doesn’t prevent me from giving the best (Money no options) advice , I , nor OP mentioned where it’s gonna be drawn ;), so don’t draw a 30m unshielded where you supposed to have drawn a shielded … just saying
Ohh, couldn’t help it, yes i have wired-ethernet on all 3 levels and the garage and where possible build in the walls(in tubes)( Hided)( as i’ve rebuild the house , totally renovation of floors/inner walls(most)/ceilings etc etc , so all the way to either the tp-switches, and/or from switch to end device
Sorry i just can’t imagine where you got all your “Bitching” from, as i haven’t mentioned any issues, beside always says/think , “What can be wired, should be wired”
PS, Just to pick on you
Most of the worlds population does not have 110V, so when you respond to i.e a European, Chinese etc, don’t assume they have 110V in the walls.
Here it’s 220V Or 230V
So we have 220-230V, on 16 > 63 Amp Fuses. (most common 16>25) Depends on Household Equipment
Not Here, and Not in Any places where 220V is provided to a Breaker/End Device ( Only Lead (power) In 1 Cable )
If one plans for the Future, one should “plan” for the future, beside 10gbit also POE which might become the future “standard” for lots of “larger” iot Devices
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“There’s no fate but what we make for ourselves” - Kyle Reese
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PoE (802.3af):This is the original PoE standard and provides up to 15.4 watts of power per port. PoE+ (802.3at):This standard provides up to 30 watts of power per port.
PoE++ (802.3bt):This is the latest and most powerful PoE standard and provides up to 100 watts of power per port.
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Commonly PoE cables with 60˚C, 75˚C, and 90˚C are the temperature ratings available in the market. However, temperatures over 200˚C of temperature rating can be achieved in PoE cables.
Keeping the temperature range of the cable between 50 and 90 degrees Celsius is good for the network performance and long operation life of cables
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I wonder how the next PoE Versions Specs. looks like, and which Cable is Recommended for i.e a 30m high “loaded” Cable
I don’t know where you got the idea that I was responding to you. My comments were for @ Olivier Toussaint
I did put an unused IP but for a weird reason it is only providing the UI on the WAN port, from a machine in the same subnet as its. But it is ok, I can still move the cable from LAN1 to WAN, and the computer attached to the router will be able to access the UI.
No need to fight about US vs the rest of the world @boheme61 and @stevemann.
The info about 110V was interresting to know, it might be usefull if I have to help someone someday about ethernet over powerlines. And the precision about how 220-230V works in the rest of the world is usefull to open the eyes of the imperial units users
I was about to click on the buy button of Amazon for a
TP-Link Omada ER7212PC (Router/VPN/Omada controler 3-in-1)
TP-Link EAP653 AX3000 (WiFi AP)
But I might not get rid of the Internet Box because of that “VLAN tag over WAN”. I see that in the Omada interface there is a VLAN tag and that it is possible to select WAN1/LAN but not the default WAN. It should be ok if I plug the fiber box in that port anyway. Still under investigation as you see.