Z-wave switches show dead

Hello all,

I have just migrated from SmartThings to Home Assistant. It has been a learning curve but I am getting better at things. My setup is as follows

Mini pc
Zooz ZST10-700 firmware v7.17 (updated before I installed it)

Host Operating System Home Assistant OS 7.4
Update Channel stable
Supervisor Version supervisor-2022.03.3
Docker Version 20.10.9
Disk Total 111.1 GB
Disk Used 14.9 GB
Healthy true
Supported true
Board generic-x86-64
Supervisor API ok
Version API ok
Installed Add-ons Samba share (9.5.1), File editor (5.3.3), Home Assistant Google Drive Backup (0.105.2), Samba Backup (5.0.0), Studio Code Server (4.1.0), Terminal & SSH (9.3.0), SharpTools.io (0.0.8.22), Z-Wave JS (0.1.54), Z-Wave JS to MQTT (0.35.2)

I have several Zooz switches marked as dead. They are all worked great with smartthings. They are in a outside shed/shop. I installed a outside outlet at the house, a second one on a pole 30ft from the house, a 3rd one on shop about 30ft from pole. This setup worked great for 3-4 years with smartthings. I for the life of me can’t keep it working with HA.

Attached is the map generated by Z-WaveJS2MQTT. Do you think it is the Zooz controller stick? Should I try going with a Aeotec gen 5?

Any help would be great.



I have the same stick and not quite as many devices, but even after the update, I still have a device that needs to be “pinged” back to life every once in awhile. Have you tried pinging the device in the ZWave2MQTT control panel and see if that corrects the problem?

If not, I would do a complete mesh heal and give it a day or so to come back to life…Don’t expect quick results when working with Z-wave, it’s been my experience that it takes some time to build a strong mesh.

ping does nothing. The logs show them as dead. I have done a heal (twice). They didn’t help, as the dead nodes showed skipped. I have had this up and running for over a week now.

Subscribed to Z-Wave JS Log Messages…
Log Level changed to: Debug
2022-03-10T17:51:43.558Z CNTRLR » [Node 054] pinging the node…
2022-03-10T17:51:43.581Z SERIAL » 0x010d00a90136010025000000003179 (15 bytes)
2022-03-10T17:51:43.587Z DRIVER » [Node 054] [REQ] [SendDataBridge]
│ source node id: 1
│ transmit options: 0x25
│ route: 0, 0, 0, 0
│ callback id: 49
└─[NoOperationCC]
2022-03-10T17:51:43.616Z SERIAL « [ACK] (0x06)
2022-03-10T17:51:44.041Z SERIAL « 0x010401a90152 (6 bytes)
2022-03-10T17:51:44.047Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06)
2022-03-10T17:51:44.052Z DRIVER « [RES] [SendDataBridge]
was sent: true
2022-03-10T17:51:48.207Z SERIAL « 0x011d00a9310101c2007f7f7f7f7f01010700000000020400000000000000c6 (31 bytes)
2022-03-10T17:51:48.213Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06)
2022-03-10T17:51:48.218Z DRIVER « [REQ] [SendDataBridge]
callback id: 49
transmit status: NoAck, took 4500 ms
routing attempts: 4
protocol & route speed: Z-Wave, 40 kbit/s
TX channel no.: 1
TX power: 0 dBm
measured noise floor: 0 dBm
2022-03-10T17:51:48.229Z CNTRLR [Node 054] The node did not respond after 1 attempts, it is presumed dead
2022-03-10T17:51:48.241Z CNTRLR [Node 054] ping failed: Failed to send the command after 1 attempts (Status No
Ack) (ZW0204)

How far is the shed to the controller?

You may need to ‘hot wire’ the switches close to the hub (or bring the hub to the switches) for inclusion/interview and then move them back one at a time, starting with the closest to the hub and work your way out. Heal each one once they are back in their final home.

Also, a lot of people have had great success moving the stick away from the port by using a >2’ USB extension cable. Some also recommend only using USB 2 ports

The she is 60-70 foot from the house. I have a pole with the electric meter about halfway between. I put a outside weatherproof outlet on it when I originally setup the Smartthings I had. I have not changed that.

If you look at the map, all the grey nodes are in the shed ( grey means dead). And the ones listed as ‘Tilt door xxx’ are battery tilt sensors in the shed.

The green ‘Shed Outside Receptacle’ is mounted on the outside of the shed. And the yell ‘Outdoor Outlet’ is on the pole.

I took the controller to the shed to include all the switches. Then moved it back to the house. I just don’t know why they are all marked as dead. 2 of them were working off and on, but now will not come in at all.

And I have the stick on a 3 foot extension cable already.

To me it looks like a ‘simple’ mesh strength issue. They are going to get marked ‘dead’ if they fail to ACK back to the controller.

After you moved the control back to it’s home, did you run a heal on the individual nodes, starting with the closest node to the controller and working your way out?

Oh, and I’ve been told, currently the map is almost useless for viewing routing. That said, it does have a health check function that seems useful.

I did a heal on all nodes. Started at the controller and worked my way to the on farthest from it. This has helped alot. But I still have a few that go dead. I can ping them and get them back though. Biggest problem is one of them that goes dead is a door lock.

The behavior is strange, as I have 2 switches side by side. Same brand and everything. One will go dead. The other never causes a problem…

I finally did away with the Zooz zst-10 700 stick. Went to a Gen5+. I have had no dead node issues for over a week now.

I know the 700 series have problems. Guess I am one of the unlucky ones and the problems plagued me.

Did you update the stick to 7.17.2 ?

I’m having the same issue with my Yale YRD256 smart locks. I have three of them and the one on the front door is seems to go dead at least once a week randomly. I updated my Zooz ZST-10 700 to 7.17.2 hoping that would help but it hasn’t really made an impact. Which Gen 5 stick did you end up going with? I feel like that might be my next purchase.

Yes I did update it. I also tried various other recommendations. None of the suggestions worked.

I went with the Aeotec Gen5+

Amazon link

Followed the guide on This post to convert all my nodes from 700 card back to gen5

1 Like

Do you have your Aeotec connected to USB 3.0 or 2.0 on your system?
If you have it on v3 then move it to USB 2.0.

I had big problems with controller connected to the 3.0 port.