Just adding both my Brilliant plugs have now died. I thought they were going strong and then one day dead. They lasted just over two years though
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Mine were about the same I think for the ones under constant use. Still got a few going.
I really liked the form of them. Oh well.
Yeah I’m sick of wasting money on wifi smart plugs that only last a year or two. These are not consumable items!
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You could resurrect the plugs by installing something like a Shelly or similar, if the case is large enough. I had three 433MHz plugs, two of which failed within weeks after about six years, I gutted and installed a 240V to 5V DC convertor and an ESP01S with Tasmota. That was about 12 months ago and all work and are in HA.
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I find the TP-Link Kasa series are pretty reliable, I’ve had a few for a few years with no failures (touch wood). I have some of the older style (HS100), and the new (KP115) Smart Power | TP-Link Australia. Local control too, just need to use the Kasa app to input your WiFi credentials, then HA picks them up.
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I was contemplating the idea of doing something Sonoff basic-esk with a Shelly.
Looks like others have. Even with a dumb powerboard.
But I’m keen on a compact solution. And would prefer something off the shelf + certified for smart plugs.
I have a few hs110 that I bought a few yrs ago but haven’t set them up yet.
I read that tp link (like tuya) stopped allowing the integration with new fw. Afraid to connect them to the app in case they get updated automatically.
Have you tried to set one up recently?
Here’s what I’ve come across README.md · master · madmachinations / HA TP-Link manual connection · GitLab
yes, I bought a new WiFi router about 3 months ago, and had to re pair all of them to the new SSID. I noticed some had firmware updates which I perfomred. They still connected locally just fine.
If you’re not using them for fear of a firmware update, then you have nothing to lose by trying them! Re your link, that was written 2 years ago.
Great, thanks for the info mate.
Could you check one of your switches in the app to see if it’s on the latest firmware?
Just wanted to confirm that even the latest doesn’t break things
yep I just opened the Kasa app. I only have two of my 4 powered up at the moment. The firmware won’t update unless you tell it to via the app. You have to go to the “me / firmware update” menu on the bottom of the screen. Mine is saying “The firmware of all connected devices is up to date”.
FYI if I go into each devices settings / Device info I see: HS100 firmware version 1.5.7 and KP115 firmware version 1.0.17.
Looks like you’ll be fine!
Good man, I went ahead and updated all mine. They’re still working fine
Thanks mate!
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Has anyone flashed esphome on to an Arlec TW-092CHA downlight (warm and cool white)?
I managed to do a usb to serial flash using the configuration at Arlec Grid Connect Smart 9W CCT LED Downlight (ALD092CHA) | ESPHome-Devices which is for an earlier model - though the TYWE5P module seems to be the same in both models.
It works well in most respects but had a bad flicker at lower brightness settings (despite trying various power points). The flicker is much improved by setting a frequency of 200 Hz, which seems very low cf the suggestions at ESP32 LEDC Output — ESPHome. But it’s still there right at the low end of the brightness setting. Lower frequencies make no difference or the bad flicker reappears (at 50 Hz). Perhaps relevant to note that there is no reference to frequency in the code linked above on the esphome site.
More problematically though, the lowest brightness setting is at 15%… below that it cuts off warm and cool output. Not sure how I can use it with my adapative lighting integration unless I can modify that somehow - aside from creating an Adaptive Lighting integration just for that light (and any future similar lights I might flash).
Would be grateful for tips from someone who knows about these things.
here is my configuration
esphome:
name: bathroom-light
platform: ESP8266
board: esp01_1m
wifi:
ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
password: !secret wifi_password
# Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
ap:
ssid: "########"
password: "########"
captive_portal:
logger:
api:
ota:
sensor:
- platform: uptime
name: Bathroom Light Uptime
- platform: wifi_signal
name: Bathroom Light Signal Strength
output:
- platform: esp8266_pwm
id: output_cw
pin: GPIO4
frequency: 200Hz
- platform: esp8266_pwm
id: output_ww
pin: GPIO5
frequency: 200Hz
light:
- platform: cwww
name: Bathroom Light
cold_white: output_cw
warm_white: output_ww
cold_white_color_temperature: 5700 K
warm_white_color_temperature: 3000 K
constant_brightness: true
restore_mode: RESTORE_DEFAULT_ON
Recently the skip login option vanished from my kasa app so I no longer had guest access to add new devices. Is yours working?
I don’t have a skip login or guest, I’m continuously logged in with my email address.
Initial impressions of Athom plugs (haven’t actually used them yet). Feel free to silence me people given they are not certified and so outside scope of this thread:) Am considering a dedicated thread anyway;) ?
Like others have said, main shortfall in form is the button would be easier to access if it was on top or the front. Potentially constrained access if it is in the right dual plug slot.
You can just squeeze in two side by side.
The real test with AU smart plugs is whether they make it past the 1-2 year mark after the failures of Kogan and Brilliant to achieve this.
Athom is the square plug(s). A Brilliant also shown for comparison.
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No way I can get two side by side in my old double GPOs. I did this hack with a double adapter to deal with that and the button access:
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Replying to my own question - perhaps it will help others who are trying to flash esphome to their Arlec TW-092CHA downlight, given I couldn’t find any instructions online.
the fix for the setting a minimum brightness, (in my case just above the point where it starts flickering) but still being able to turn off the light is as follows - in the output platforms for the cool and warm white.
min_power: 0.05
max_power: 1
zero_means_zero: True
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You could also probably fit two Athoms in one of these?
Then you’d still have button access + your other GPO.
We’re starting to like those old warning adverts saying “don’t do this!”
And here we are touting ‘smart’ plugs. Hang on - to use them just load your wall plate with all sorts of plug in critters. Is this really the future of home automation?