Yes the board needs DC which is what the rectifier does in my case (changes AC to DC). There are DC solenoids so you need to work out which ones of those you are getting in order to work how best to proceed.
Morning everyone!
So, not sure if this is the right topic for this, but HA just had their second year of the voice announcement. Among other things was the ability to do local speech to text and text to speech. In their blog post about it, they have a section for ESPHome mics and speakers, and were talking about using something like this as a cheap way to have a mic and speaker that works with HA
My question for this topic (and sorry if it’s a very basic question, I don’t know much about hardware and how a lot of things work) is whether buying stuff like this from overseas is ok for use in Aus - I don’t see any official certification for us here, but I’m pretty sure it’s just a 5v cable in. Is that ok to buy from overseas and use here, or are there risks involved and it shouldn’t be done?
Thanks in advanced!
I think we must have discussed this before (maybe on whirlpool) as the rectifier rings a bell and it scared me off at the time.
I’d like to keep things simple, so if that means finding a dc power supply and tracking down 24v DC solenoids that sounds like a plan. (EDIT: reading that AC solenoids can work with DC power? Does the power supply voltage need to match the solenoid voltage for this type of relay board?)
I think i’ll run a main line around the perimeter of the backyard, then junctions with solenoids in line off that to my zones. Plan for now is 4 lawn sprinklers in 2 or 3 zones and one raised garden bed zone with small sprayers or drippers. i’ve made a scale architectural drawing below
Just be aware that ‘standard’ solenoids are 24Vac so really it’s best to stick with those. If one fails you can easily by a replacement at Bunnings or irrigation shop. Using a rectified etc to use that same 24Vac and convert to 5Vdc is not hard. It’s what I did.
I am still hugely confused as to what i actually need to do so i think i’ll find a thread on this topic to avoid clogging this one with my questions. Thanks all.
This is old as I haven’t shared my latest setup yet but it should give you some idea of what you can do. Somewhere I have a post showing my enclosure etc but again, it’s old. I now run a PoE ESP32 as the controller and the relay board is powered from that so the 24Vac is only switched by the relays and sent to the solenoids and pump contactor (I have a bore).
There’s a reason swimming pool lights, and irrigation systems etc use AC power - it is less susceptible to corrosion than DC. ChatGPT (via Bing’s new AI search) sums it up pretty well:
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Id also say you probably don’t want to have the solenoids all scattered around like that as you have to run wires to each of them. Typically you have all the solenoids in a box in the garden and you run a multi core cable to it. In your case you could use five core as you need one wire for each solenoid and then a common ground for all. Here is an example of a manifold https://sunshoweronline.com.au/complete-irrigation-manifold-bundles-inc-hunter-pgv-valves/https://sunshoweronline.com.au/complete-irrigation-manifold-bundles-inc-hunter-pgv-valves/
Looking at this link the DC solenoid may not be fail safe. If you lose power it might stay open but this would depend on how your specific one works How to Choose a Solenoid Valve - Irrigation Express
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I assumed multicore wire would work in either case, i’d just be tapping into it at the desired location?
Only reason I was really thinking of doing it that way was a single cable for power would probably be cheaper than 5+ runs of irrigation from the same point of origin. Am i overthinking it?
I think it will be cheaper to have everything in one place as one large irrigation box will likely be cheaper that four smaller ones. Additionally tapping into a cable at multiple points is just adding in points of failure. Again the normal way of doing it is a manifold in a box with multi core cable to the box.
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Here’s the manifold in my back yard, one main water feed branching into 5 runs. The little green box is an isolation valve in case there’s a leak in the manifold box. Sorry this is getting really off topic now 
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Nice, I got excel life non-smart through house with LED rings which i wanted to keep but cant find a button that will allow me to retain them
do these excel life smart ones have a blue led in them that can stay on full time?
If i got these could i just get a conbee ii to run them?
Don’t buy conbee ii. Tech has moved on.
Hey just wondering how the f do you get that zigbee powerboard to switch to pair mode? I’ve long pressed the button and the light starts flashing, but nothing pops up on Zigbee2MQTT…
I’ll try rebooting home assistant, and try again… Starting to wonder if I’ve got a dud…
Edit: that fixed it. Shutting down home assistant via the terminal “ha host shutdown” - a neat trick for when you have zigbee issues (it clears some cache stuff that survives a normal reboot)
Now it works. Weird.
any double power points with CSE7766 power monitoring chip?
Did anyone buy these Zibee dimmers? It kills me that they must turn on with 100% brightness before they dim down to the level they were turned off at - Has anyone been able to get around this and have them turn on at the desired brightness?
1am walks to the bathroom are very bright for a few seconds.
Any Clipsal series will be a straight fit which would be my preference. HPM and Deta etc will also fit but they are inferior brands.
What exactly are you wanting to achieve? I’m guessing you want a smart solution. I haven’t yet seen anything 5 gang in a smart switch plate. If you have space in a cavity behind then you can stick with ‘dumb’ switches and wire them to smart relays/dimmers.
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Thanks Dave, sorry i didnt mention wanting a smart solution one.