Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

These look pretty neat - looks like Oz Smart have rebranded the wifi version for $50.
$77 seems to be about the cheapest I can get Zigbee ones for.

Are you using a Tuya Zigbee hub? All my other Tuya stuff is Wifi, so just trying to wrap my head around how these would communicate with both Tuya Smartlife and HA locally.

I’d probably be happy enough just having them connect directly to my existing HA Zigbee network via the Sonoff stick, and not bother with Tuya Smartlife.

Hey aussie blokes.
I need to fit a new instant gas hot water service in the next few days, is there any recommendations on aussie brands/models that have good ways to monitor or set via Home Assistant ?
So far tonight found only Rheem gets a mention on HA forums.

Just to round this one out. I did return the faulty smart plug along with a completed return form (and referenced my earlier email outlining the issue). As a reminder, it was one of these:

I received the replacement a couple of days ago covered in ants so after a bit of decontamination I installed it yesterday. That took about 5 weeks. Slow, but kudos to them for providing a replacement.

Will have to see how this one goes.

Being Zigbee, it just paired up instantly to my Zigbee network (using a Conbee II stick) and was instantly recognised in Home Assistant. I do like the simplicity of getting it set up.

Rinnai. There is a custom Integration in HACS.

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I have finally decided to convert my plug as it is that last thing I have that needs the SonoffLan integration.

Can you provide the GPIO that is used for the relay and the onboard Led1. The Sel pin is marked and I have metered out the CF and CF1 pins.

As for missing circuitry, there are unpopulated footprints for a couple of resistors and a transistor and the transistor is connected to the Sel pin. So according to an example cct I found whatever GPIO the Sel pin should be using is irrelevant without those parts.

BTW, did you remove the module to flash ??

I wrote a guide to get the Mercator Ikuu Zigbee Pro Hub SGW003 working as a Zigbee gateway via Home Assistant, using a specific fork of the LocalTuya project.

The setup below will give you BOTH local control and Cloud connectivity at the same time with the standard hardware.
This gives full local control AND cloud control of your devices at the same time.
No device hacks, firmware flashes or 3rd party Zigbee controllers needed.

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Thanks mate - that makes sense. I’m running a Sonoff Zigbee stick so would probably just go local only.

What’s your use case for needing the Tuya Cloud as well as local with HA? Interested to see what I’m missing.

Main use case was that I already had all my devices and automations setup through the Smart Life app, and integrated with Google Home for voice control, so I wanted to be able to gradually migrate the functionality to HA as I learned to use the platform and automations.

Most automations are now in HA, but I still use Google Home for voice control via the Smart Life connection.

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Ah neat, thanks for that. Makes sense.

Paired 19 of 19 dimmer modules no issue. They work really well with the Clipsal downlights I’ve got. Full dimming range using rl_led mode and full ballast range.

Of the 10 switch modules I only managed to pair 9 successfully. One is stuck in Bluetooth mode (it does have a Z part number).

Tried factory reset, 3 short and one long press until the led flashes fast. Also tried 3 short and one long press until the led flashes slow. Also tried 12 short presses. No change. It is stuck in Bluetooth mode. Spent hours re-trying all three methods. I’ll give it another go tomorrow but it may need replacing, unless you have any ideas?

Great to hear you got them all going. Really happy with mine too.

Keep holding! It will flash red slowly after 10 seconds and after 20 seconds it will turn to a fast blinking red.

It should go straight to ZigBee pairing mode after it’s rebooted but you can put it in pairing mode with (I think) 3 fast presses.

Yep tried that too:

No change still blinks red/green when trying to pair.

The state Clipsal manager lives nearby apparently. He’s going to advise.

It must be faulty then. Can you pair it in Bluetooth mode ok and do a factory reset from the UI?

Yeah, paired it to the Wires app and checked for updates. There were none. Factory reset in the app. Then did the 3 short one long until flashing fast red. Waited for the reset but nothing happens. Still flashes alternate red/green when in pairing mode.

Sounds like it’s a device issue. is it a 2AX or 10AX switch? I’ve only got two of the 2AX at the moment and not used one of the 10A switches.
Not that it’s relevant for pairing issues but are you pairing them to ZHA or Z2MQTT?

It’s a 10AX module.

Zigbee2MQTT. No issues pairing the other 18 switches and dimmers.

It’s got to be faulty then.
FYI the 2AX and 10AX switches were broken in MQTT briefly for a few days but only over on the dev Z2MQTT channel (fixed yesterday). I’ve got a local converter for them and one that also defines the ‘on level’ for the dimmers, which isn’t exposed otherwise. I’ve been trying to look how to do a PR to send that across but the code is too different and beyond me.

Yeah I’m pretty sure there’s something wrong with it.

All my dimmers have ballast min and max settings (1 to 254 each). Are they for the min and max light level?

I can’t find any info on this anywhere.

EDIT never mind, the answer is in Zigbee2MQTT:

I had a bit of a play with them last night to try and get a linear dimming range. Ended just setting min to 1 and max to 254 for my the Clipsal down-lights. There’s a barely perceptible flat spot between 90 and 100% brightness. For the LED globes in other fittings it seems to work better set to 1 min and 192 max.

Yep that’s what they are for.

My LED downlights get some flickering when down below the 10 range, so I can set minimum at 15, then 1% in HA is just slightly brighter but stable.


Here’s my dimmer and 2AX exposes from the local converters.
It adds on level, and removes some non functional exposes that are on the Z2MQTT github. Some folks way smarter than me wrote these but I’m not sure why the merged features are different.

This is what my dimmer module exposes:

No indicator settings (you can’t see it anyway as it is hidden away in a junction box) but it does have the on level. “Previous” is the default. Tested that last night.

The switch module just exposes state and link quality.