An ESP with relays connected would work perfectly here. They really are simple to set up.
1 Like
The Shelly Plus Uni might be something you could manage. One Uni has two digital inputs and two dry contact outputs. The outputs are rated at up to 250mA each, which I would assume is fine for your purpose. Maybe somebody with more knowledge about these zone controllers could confirm that for you.
Do you know the model of the damper, that should provide at least voltage and current requirements.
I have experienced exactly the same failure (rapid uncontrolled switching of the output relay) with 4 out of 5 of my Kasa KP105 (no power monitoring vs the KP115 models). There is a design flaw for these KP105/115 smart plugs which is well documented on the TP-Link official forum. It involves a capacitor which dries out after 1 to 2 years and fails. Be very wary what load you have connected on your other 15 units as they will eventually fail in the same way if they haven’t already!
It’s not just the KP1x5 models too.
The Arlec PC44 series (outdoor IP44) units have the same fault.
Others have this issue too (“bulging caps”). Pretty sure there’s some more reports in this thread.
From memory the Brilliant’s and the Athoms also fail like this.
Just about to bite the bullet and get the EV. Any aussies or kiwis out there who recommend a particular wall charger that integrates with HA?
Single phase, solar and batteries at home. Power supply is Amber so price fluctuation is a factor.
Was thinking a Wallbox?
Pat
I ended up getting the WattPilot and now have a Tesla model 3. The WattPilot is expensive but works very well in terms of charging on excess solar (see graph below). Doesn’t even need to integrate with HA to do excess solar, talks direct with the Fronius inverter. But there is a HACS WattPilot integration and this works well in terms of controlling charger start, stop, and reporting charge power, energy.
I also installed the OCPP HACS addon to get WattPilot data, reports more data than WattPilot, but has fewer controls.
Overall a third integration I have is Tessie, a proper HA integration. This is the most useful, but requires a Tessie subscription and is, shock horror, via the cloud. It connects to your Tesla account and the native Tesla API. This does almost everything the other two (WattPilot and OCPP) integrations do and is all I really need.
Here’s my dashboard, still a work in progress. The graph shows that I started the car charging from about 10:30am until sunset. The image of the charge cable changes based on whether it’s physically plugged in or not.
Disregard the 18.7kWh energy added, I stopped and started the charger a few times when I was testing the dashboard, so the energy added is just in the last charging session.
2 Likes
Pat
thanks for that. Gives me some ideas. I have SMA inverters and have found at times that they are not easily controllable. I also have a Sonnen battery. I will also be gtting a BYD Atto3. I have found over the years that many ‘smart’ devices are only as smart as their paired apps. As soon as you want them to be smart with something else they become dumb real quick.
I did watch Lars Klint recently who has built a simple automation with Node Red to take into account electricity price among other factors to control charging times.
Pat
1 Like
Does anyone here have a liftaway roller door opener? I would like to automate it with a shelly or similar. There are 4 screw terminals but I’m unsure which ones to use. The manuals are usless.
I doubt you would use those connections. A photo beam is usually used to prevent the door from closing if there is an obstruction.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah I figured. The PB terminal has me wondering though. I wonder if i throw the multimeter across the ground and PB and activate the motor if i will see continuity?
I was hopeing somebody here may have already sorted it out.
This diagram would suggest that a switch can be connected between PB and ground. This is from the LA-SDO1 manual:
1 Like
Pete, you are a legend. I just found that myself when I got a notifcation of your reply.
Ill stick a monetery switch in there when I get home and make sure it works as intended.
Thanks again for the replies guys
when you say you want to automate it, do you mean control the open/close of the door? As @tom_l pointed out the “PB = Photo Beam” signal is not what you want. You need to find another terminal that is intended to connect a wall mounted push button, and wire a Shelly (or similar) to that.
Best to then have a magnet and sensor at the bottom of the door, and another at the top, and create a template cover for the door. It will then have open, close, opening, and closing states that you can automate off.
While we’re talking about photo beams, I have one for my driveway gate, and connected a Shelly UNI analogue sensor (ADC) to its output. I have an automation that closes the gate (and garage door) after a car backs out, defined as the photo beam being interrupted for more than 3 seconds.
Confusingly I think PB = push button, and PE = photo beam. So they should be ok.
3 Likes
When I say automate I do mean open/cloase. I have some reed switches already. I currently have a hacky solution using relays and a esp32 soldered to an old keyfob but it seems to pickup noise and randomly opening the door. Obviously not ideal.
My take from petes diagram is the same as tom. I think the O/S/C is the give away.
open/stop/close
EDIT: This is on the page above petes diagram
oops sorry guys, you’re right, yes I missed that.
Yes that’s how I interpret it too.
The manual isn’t well worded at all, but the layout is very similar to how my Merlin units work (they have a connection marked ‘P/B’ which you pull to ground)
1 Like
Just confirm that I tested it with a momentary switch and it worked! Now to dig out my Shelly from the junk room. Thanks for the help guys!
2 Likes