Pete, you are a legend. I just found that myself when I got a notifcation of your reply.
Ill stick a monetery switch in there when I get home and make sure it works as intended.
Thanks again for the replies guys
when you say you want to automate it, do you mean control the open/close of the door? As @tom_l pointed out the āPB = Photo Beamā signal is not what you want. You need to find another terminal that is intended to connect a wall mounted push button, and wire a Shelly (or similar) to that.
Best to then have a magnet and sensor at the bottom of the door, and another at the top, and create a template cover for the door. It will then have open, close, opening, and closing states that you can automate off.
While weāre talking about photo beams, I have one for my driveway gate, and connected a Shelly UNI analogue sensor (ADC) to its output. I have an automation that closes the gate (and garage door) after a car backs out, defined as the photo beam being interrupted for more than 3 seconds.
Confusingly I think PB = push button, and PE = photo beam. So they should be ok.
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When I say automate I do mean open/cloase. I have some reed switches already. I currently have a hacky solution using relays and a esp32 soldered to an old keyfob but it seems to pickup noise and randomly opening the door. Obviously not ideal.
My take from petes diagram is the same as tom. I think the O/S/C is the give away.
open/stop/close
EDIT: This is on the page above petes diagram
oops sorry guys, youāre right, yes I missed that.
Yes thatās how I interpret it too.
The manual isnāt well worded at all, but the layout is very similar to how my Merlin units work (they have a connection marked āP/Bā which you pull to ground)
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Just confirm that I tested it with a momentary switch and it worked! Now to dig out my Shelly from the junk room. Thanks for the help guys!
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I also have a Wattpilot. The chargerās native Eco (PV surplus) mode doesnāt work in my installation (apparently) because I have a Powerwall. But the HA integration works well and I have an automation controlling the charging current for PV surplus into the car.
Hey all, weāve got some shelly relays that have been working great but thereās a couple of places we might want to have some smart bulbs as well as shelly relays. I was thinking of running the shellys in detached mode - if I understand it right, thatāll make the switch do nothing except send a signal to HA, and with that I can make it do other things, right?
So if I got some smart bulbs, I could have a shelly relay in detached mode ready to go and when the switch is hit, HA gets notified and turns the light bulb on - is that correct?
Given that, what are some good RGBW bulbs people recommend to work with this this system? I like the idea of local, and Iāve got zigbee stuff, so maybe something like the ikea/philips hue bulbs? These would just be outside for outdoor lights, so no need for huge amounts of light. Also happy to go wifi if they have a fully local mode, though Iām not good at flashing things, so no tuya wifi)
Thanks in advanced!
Here is an extensive discussion on detached mode.
That sounds good for some reference on how to do it, thanks! What are some good local rgbw bulbs that work with HA then? Maybe zigbee if need be?
I just built a few circuit boards that I plug an esp32-c3 into for my MHI split system to plug into where their own wireless app controller plugs into.
Its based of the MHI2MQTT that was already mentioned, I also added a SHT4x temp and humidity sensor to it as well and I have it all running in esphome for local control and automations.
Picture shown next to a old esp8266 D1 mini just for a size comparision.
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Very nice. Does the temp sensor get affected much by the esp or unit?
Not much by the unit as it is not in the airstream, its installed in the side of the ac.
I do have an variable defined in the esphome config for an offset (its set about 2 deg C) as the esp itself puts out some heat that flows into the board. The sensor also can be calibrated linear or polynomial as well in esphome but I havenāt bothered with that at this point.
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P.S. also the SHT4x module is fitted using standard 2.54 spacing male and female headers so it could be remote mounted with standard dupont cables if it was needed.
Although I found heat does flow through the metal wires almost just as much as the metal pins.
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Hey just to let you know there is an integration now
Which one?
I recall reading about this on some threads when in some rabbit hole.
I think long thick wires helps.
Hi Tom, Old thread, but I am looking to do the same (automate heating and cooling with excess solar). Do you have any recommendations on good thermostats for HA integration, that work in AU?
Thanks
Stuart
I just use the thermostat built into my heat pump.