oops sorry guys, you’re right, yes I missed that.
Yes that’s how I interpret it too.
The manual isn’t well worded at all, but the layout is very similar to how my Merlin units work (they have a connection marked ‘P/B’ which you pull to ground)
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Just confirm that I tested it with a momentary switch and it worked! Now to dig out my Shelly from the junk room. Thanks for the help guys!
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I also have a Wattpilot. The charger’s native Eco (PV surplus) mode doesn’t work in my installation (apparently) because I have a Powerwall. But the HA integration works well and I have an automation controlling the charging current for PV surplus into the car.
Hey all, we’ve got some shelly relays that have been working great but there’s a couple of places we might want to have some smart bulbs as well as shelly relays. I was thinking of running the shellys in detached mode - if I understand it right, that’ll make the switch do nothing except send a signal to HA, and with that I can make it do other things, right?
So if I got some smart bulbs, I could have a shelly relay in detached mode ready to go and when the switch is hit, HA gets notified and turns the light bulb on - is that correct?
Given that, what are some good RGBW bulbs people recommend to work with this this system? I like the idea of local, and I’ve got zigbee stuff, so maybe something like the ikea/philips hue bulbs? These would just be outside for outdoor lights, so no need for huge amounts of light. Also happy to go wifi if they have a fully local mode, though I’m not good at flashing things, so no tuya wifi)
Thanks in advanced!
Here is an extensive discussion on detached mode.
That sounds good for some reference on how to do it, thanks! What are some good local rgbw bulbs that work with HA then? Maybe zigbee if need be?
I just built a few circuit boards that I plug an esp32-c3 into for my MHI split system to plug into where their own wireless app controller plugs into.
Its based of the MHI2MQTT that was already mentioned, I also added a SHT4x temp and humidity sensor to it as well and I have it all running in esphome for local control and automations.
Picture shown next to a old esp8266 D1 mini just for a size comparision.
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Very nice. Does the temp sensor get affected much by the esp or unit?
Not much by the unit as it is not in the airstream, its installed in the side of the ac.
I do have an variable defined in the esphome config for an offset (its set about 2 deg C) as the esp itself puts out some heat that flows into the board. The sensor also can be calibrated linear or polynomial as well in esphome but I haven’t bothered with that at this point.
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P.S. also the SHT4x module is fitted using standard 2.54 spacing male and female headers so it could be remote mounted with standard dupont cables if it was needed.
Although I found heat does flow through the metal wires almost just as much as the metal pins.
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Hey just to let you know there is an integration now
Which one?
I recall reading about this on some threads when in some rabbit hole.
I think long thick wires helps.
Hi Tom, Old thread, but I am looking to do the same (automate heating and cooling with excess solar). Do you have any recommendations on good thermostats for HA integration, that work in AU?
Thanks
Stuart
I just use the thermostat built into my heat pump.
Hi,
I’m about to embark on a project to replace the early-gen (~13yo) LED downlights in my house with new ones. And at the same time upgrade everything to HA-compatible smart lighting with dimming support. All lights will be primarily motion/presence sensor controlled, but still want manual control as a backup. Big project - 52 downlights, 4 exhaust fans, ~25 lighting/fan circuits, 26 wall plates.
ETA - luckily I already have neutral wires to all wall switches.
My primary requirements are:
- solid, reliable HA support
- local-only control via open API (no cloud requirement of any sort, no reliance on manufacturer support, not an integration reverse engineered by end users - no general predjudice against the latter, but want to avoid for a lighting system I’d hope will last 10+ years)
- tactile wall switches
- (solid) dimming support
I am fairly protocol agnostic - ZigBee / Thread / WiFi (solid coverage from 2x Unifi APs) are all OK. Even Z-Wave, although I don’t have any existing Z-Wave devices/network.
I already have ~8 “Nue” (3A Smart Home) ZigBee downlights and about the same of their wall switches. They’re not the right path moving forward - the light quality on the downlights sucks, and the wall switches, while they have fundamentally been quite reliable, aren’t ideal (don’t like the look, no tactile buttons, and, infuriatingly, no support for transition on the dimmers).
So far, I think I have three main options as follows:
Option 1 - Smart Lights, Dumb Switches: The downlights I’m likely to use (Brightgreen) have a ZigBee-compatible driver available. They cost substantially more than normal drivers, but much of this cost is offset by savings on wall plates / mechs / etc with this option. Pending testing a sample to ensure it works well with HA, I could make all the downlights smart, have basic wall switches (just to allow power cycling if needed), and then place ZigBee buttons / remotes in all spots they’re needed for manual control (by “remote”, think IKEA Styrbar-style - although hopefully I can find something a bit smaller and more light switch/dimmer-like).
Option 2 - Dumb Lights controlled by Shellys (Wi-Fi version): Not much more to say about this option, except that FWIW I’d probably use Clipsal Iconic wall plates with their compatible bell press momentary mechs (two per light circuit - one for dim up, one for dim down).
Option 3 - Dumb Lights controlled by Mercator ZigBee mechs: Ditto not much more to say on this option.
I guess there is probably a fourth option using Tuya-based Wi-Fi switches (Arlec GridConnect, etc) - but would violate some of my requirements (integrations that provide local-only control are reverse engineered I believe, and I’ve had mixed luck getting a few other Tuya bulbs to work without a cloud connection (local control has worked fine, but have had then stop responding when completely cut off from the internet)).
Option 1 is the most expensive, Option 2 the middle and option 3 the cheapest. But in the scale of the project, the prices are so relatively close I’ll just go for the “best” option of the three.
At this point I’m leaning towards Option 2, the Shelly option. Option 1 does have the benefit of “matched” dimmer drivers and downlights, so perhaps might offer the smoothest/best dimming experience, and also the most flexibility (given I can control every individual light, regardless of how they’re wired). But, I would hope the Shellys would perform almost as well on the dimming front given how ubiquitous and well recommended they are, and they would definitely be “cleaner” overall (i.e. no separate ZigBee buttons/remotes for control, relatively sleek wall plates/mechs). I don’t think I really see any solid areas where Option 3 is superior to Option 2, except perhaps a small preference for ZigBee over WiFi.
Does anyone have any thoughts on the three options above, and my leaning towards Shellys/Option 2? Or suggestions on any other options I should consider?
Thanks!
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One thing to consider is the requirement for a neutral wire at the switch (wall plate). I purchased the Connect light switches from Harvey Norman a few years back now and still have not installed. This is due to my house not being wired with a neutral wire to the switch (wall plate).
I need to get an electrician to run a neutral wire from the bulb down to the switch in each location (20 odd Switches), this is an extra cost to consider. I will get it done eventually. I do have a a robust Unify Network to run the switches.
It does not seem like there is any switch (wall plates) that are available in Australia with no neutral.
There is these Milfra Switches and Manhot switches on Alliexpress that do have the Australian Regulatory Compliance Tick on them. They also allow for no neutral installation. Even with the Compliance Mark, I am unsure if they are actually registered, I can’t seem to find them in National Equipment Register.
Sorry, I should have mentioned that - luckily I have neutral wires to all wall switches. Would be a major PITA otherwise, as you’ve unfortunately discovered!
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The Clipsal Wiser dimmer pucks that you put behind your own switch plate are 2 wire (no neutral). I do not recommend them. They flicker randomly even with Clipsal Downlights and their load correction device.
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