Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

Do you have any info on the Smart Temp panel like a circuit diagram or a wiring diagram. Without that info it will be difficult to work out what us needed.

Probably worth showing the other side if you can.

Just gotta press them buttons?! :wink:

This stuff is beyond me but something I might have a crack at with help from people who know what they are doing. The Discord bunch are good for this kind of project.

Not Zigbee, but maybe something like this? Dunno if the Shelly Unis are certified.

https://www.shelly.com/en-au/products/shop/shelly-uni

I think they might be able to both “press the button” and maybe also “monitor a voltage as the state” on the low voltage side. But again, I’m a rooky here so defer to someone who knows what they’re talking about;)

I’ve got seven Daikin splits in my house and they’ve been pretty reliable for the past 5 years or so. The Daikin integration throws the occasional warning about not being able to update one or more in a reasonable amount of time, but they all respond fine to dashboard and voice assistant interactions.

Note that they all have the Daikin wifi module installed.

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Yeah I get that too. I’m hoping if this ever gets some attention it will fix it:

I get the same error from the API: it’s caused by the API always trying to retrieve power usage stats from the device which causes most of mine to churn for ages before responding with zeros for most of the values.

I reported it upstream and even proposed disabling those requests unless manually enabled, but that wasn’t something the maintainers were interested in.

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No I don’t unfortunately. As far as I know it’s a 24VAC circuit for each of the 4 actuators in the ducts. Push the button, actuator moves to open/close the damper. There’s no control unit in the roof space, the wall panel is connected directly to each damper.

Yep, that’s what it’s like with the panel off. Press button, zone changes. I tried using Fingerbots but the cheap ones on Aliexpress were not strong enough to press the button!

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Ordered a Faikin when you put this post up for my Daikin (so 18 days ago), just received it in the post this week, looks a lot more economical than the Daikin wifi module.

An ESP with relays connected would work perfectly here. They really are simple to set up.

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The Shelly Plus Uni might be something you could manage. One Uni has two digital inputs and two dry contact outputs. The outputs are rated at up to 250mA each, which I would assume is fine for your purpose. Maybe somebody with more knowledge about these zone controllers could confirm that for you.

Do you know the model of the damper, that should provide at least voltage and current requirements.

I have experienced exactly the same failure (rapid uncontrolled switching of the output relay) with 4 out of 5 of my Kasa KP105 (no power monitoring vs the KP115 models). There is a design flaw for these KP105/115 smart plugs which is well documented on the TP-Link official forum. It involves a capacitor which dries out after 1 to 2 years and fails. Be very wary what load you have connected on your other 15 units as they will eventually fail in the same way if they haven’t already!

It’s not just the KP1x5 models too.
The Arlec PC44 series (outdoor IP44) units have the same fault.

Others have this issue too (“bulging caps”). Pretty sure there’s some more reports in this thread.

From memory the Brilliant’s and the Athoms also fail like this.

Some people replace the caps.

Just about to bite the bullet and get the EV. Any aussies or kiwis out there who recommend a particular wall charger that integrates with HA?
Single phase, solar and batteries at home. Power supply is Amber so price fluctuation is a factor.
Was thinking a Wallbox?
Pat

I ended up getting the WattPilot and now have a Tesla model 3. The WattPilot is expensive but works very well in terms of charging on excess solar (see graph below). Doesn’t even need to integrate with HA to do excess solar, talks direct with the Fronius inverter. But there is a HACS WattPilot integration and this works well in terms of controlling charger start, stop, and reporting charge power, energy.

I also installed the OCPP HACS addon to get WattPilot data, reports more data than WattPilot, but has fewer controls.

Overall a third integration I have is Tessie, a proper HA integration. This is the most useful, but requires a Tessie subscription and is, shock horror, via the cloud. It connects to your Tesla account and the native Tesla API. This does almost everything the other two (WattPilot and OCPP) integrations do and is all I really need.

Here’s my dashboard, still a work in progress. The graph shows that I started the car charging from about 10:30am until sunset. The image of the charge cable changes based on whether it’s physically plugged in or not.
Disregard the 18.7kWh energy added, I stopped and started the charger a few times when I was testing the dashboard, so the energy added is just in the last charging session.

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Pat
thanks for that. Gives me some ideas. I have SMA inverters and have found at times that they are not easily controllable. I also have a Sonnen battery. I will also be gtting a BYD Atto3. I have found over the years that many ‘smart’ devices are only as smart as their paired apps. As soon as you want them to be smart with something else they become dumb real quick.
I did watch Lars Klint recently who has built a simple automation with Node Red to take into account electricity price among other factors to control charging times.
Pat

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Does anyone here have a liftaway roller door opener? I would like to automate it with a shelly or similar. There are 4 screw terminals but I’m unsure which ones to use. The manuals are usless.

Capture RD

I doubt you would use those connections. A photo beam is usually used to prevent the door from closing if there is an obstruction.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah I figured. The PB terminal has me wondering though. I wonder if i throw the multimeter across the ground and PB and activate the motor if i will see continuity?
I was hopeing somebody here may have already sorted it out.

This diagram would suggest that a switch can be connected between PB and ground. This is from the LA-SDO1 manual:

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