Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

Hi,

I’m about to embark on a project to replace the early-gen (~13yo) LED downlights in my house with new ones. And at the same time upgrade everything to HA-compatible smart lighting with dimming support. All lights will be primarily motion/presence sensor controlled, but still want manual control as a backup. Big project - 52 downlights, 4 exhaust fans, ~25 lighting/fan circuits, 26 wall plates.

ETA - luckily I already have neutral wires to all wall switches.

My primary requirements are:

  • solid, reliable HA support
  • local-only control via open API (no cloud requirement of any sort, no reliance on manufacturer support, not an integration reverse engineered by end users - no general predjudice against the latter, but want to avoid for a lighting system I’d hope will last 10+ years)
  • tactile wall switches
  • (solid) dimming support

I am fairly protocol agnostic - ZigBee / Thread / WiFi (solid coverage from 2x Unifi APs) are all OK. Even Z-Wave, although I don’t have any existing Z-Wave devices/network.

I already have ~8 “Nue” (3A Smart Home) ZigBee downlights and about the same of their wall switches. They’re not the right path moving forward - the light quality on the downlights sucks, and the wall switches, while they have fundamentally been quite reliable, aren’t ideal (don’t like the look, no tactile buttons, and, infuriatingly, no support for transition on the dimmers).

So far, I think I have three main options as follows:

Option 1 - Smart Lights, Dumb Switches: The downlights I’m likely to use (Brightgreen) have a ZigBee-compatible driver available. They cost substantially more than normal drivers, but much of this cost is offset by savings on wall plates / mechs / etc with this option. Pending testing a sample to ensure it works well with HA, I could make all the downlights smart, have basic wall switches (just to allow power cycling if needed), and then place ZigBee buttons / remotes in all spots they’re needed for manual control (by “remote”, think IKEA Styrbar-style - although hopefully I can find something a bit smaller and more light switch/dimmer-like).

Option 2 - Dumb Lights controlled by Shellys (Wi-Fi version): Not much more to say about this option, except that FWIW I’d probably use Clipsal Iconic wall plates with their compatible bell press momentary mechs (two per light circuit - one for dim up, one for dim down).

Option 3 - Dumb Lights controlled by Mercator ZigBee mechs: Ditto not much more to say on this option.

I guess there is probably a fourth option using Tuya-based Wi-Fi switches (Arlec GridConnect, etc) - but would violate some of my requirements (integrations that provide local-only control are reverse engineered I believe, and I’ve had mixed luck getting a few other Tuya bulbs to work without a cloud connection (local control has worked fine, but have had then stop responding when completely cut off from the internet)).

Option 1 is the most expensive, Option 2 the middle and option 3 the cheapest. But in the scale of the project, the prices are so relatively close I’ll just go for the “best” option of the three.

At this point I’m leaning towards Option 2, the Shelly option. Option 1 does have the benefit of “matched” dimmer drivers and downlights, so perhaps might offer the smoothest/best dimming experience, and also the most flexibility (given I can control every individual light, regardless of how they’re wired). But, I would hope the Shellys would perform almost as well on the dimming front given how ubiquitous and well recommended they are, and they would definitely be “cleaner” overall (i.e. no separate ZigBee buttons/remotes for control, relatively sleek wall plates/mechs). I don’t think I really see any solid areas where Option 3 is superior to Option 2, except perhaps a small preference for ZigBee over WiFi.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the three options above, and my leaning towards Shellys/Option 2? Or suggestions on any other options I should consider?

Thanks!

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One thing to consider is the requirement for a neutral wire at the switch (wall plate). I purchased the Connect light switches from Harvey Norman a few years back now and still have not installed. This is due to my house not being wired with a neutral wire to the switch (wall plate).

I need to get an electrician to run a neutral wire from the bulb down to the switch in each location (20 odd Switches), this is an extra cost to consider. I will get it done eventually. I do have a a robust Unify Network to run the switches.

It does not seem like there is any switch (wall plates) that are available in Australia with no neutral.

There is these Milfra Switches and Manhot switches on Alliexpress that do have the Australian Regulatory Compliance Tick on them. They also allow for no neutral installation. Even with the Compliance Mark, I am unsure if they are actually registered, I can’t seem to find them in National Equipment Register.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that - luckily I have neutral wires to all wall switches. Would be a major PITA otherwise, as you’ve unfortunately discovered!

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The Clipsal Wiser dimmer pucks that you put behind your own switch plate are 2 wire (no neutral). I do not recommend them. They flicker randomly even with Clipsal Downlights and their load correction device.

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There is. I got one of these about a month ago. At first it was playing havoc with my Zigbee network and I was set to send it back for a refund but after about a week everything settled down so I’m going to keep it and see how it goes.

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I’d say they haven’t been assessed and/or tested for AS/NZS compliance, and the Chinese OEM is just applying the label. It’s a pity because they look quite nice.

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Have been considering these for a while… good to hear they probably work well. My ZigBee network is in a small unit and only a few devices… maybe that will help. Anyway, do these switches still turn lights on and off if ZigBee network is down?

It should be fine. Note that they do not act as zigbee routers so they won’t relay messages to other devices.

Yes.

Great… longest distance from SkyConnect is less than 10 m through one door. And I have a ZigBee repeater somewhere if any difficulties. Will order a few and line up a sparky. Much appreciated.

No problem.

One other thing I forgot to mention, I had to turn the lighting circuit power off before fitting the glass cover plate. The ‘buttons’ are capacitive touch and I’m guessing must self calibrate when powered up. If the power is on before you fit the glass plate you may have the same issue I did with the switches being triggered by the glass.

Thanks for the tip. My sparky is a great bloke and tolerates my interest in home control but has little related experience or interest. I’ll word him up.

Am I right in understanding I’ll need a bypass for each switch that controls less than 20 w of bulbs? And are they likely to be able to be fitted behind the switch itself as opposed to in the wall or ceiling near the bulb?

I’m only using a single bypass on a two gang switch. The switch that doesn’t have the bypass is only running a single 9W downlight and seems to be fine.

Not unless you have a neutral wire at the light switch. The bypass needs to go from the load side of the switch to neutral.

Really appreciate the advice. I have 4 single and 2 double gang switches. Will get a couple of bypasses just in case (they’re cheap).

Aiming for this to be last question from me this today… one of the double gangs has a dimmer on it (controls only one of the light switches). But it doesn’t seem they sell a suitable ZigBee switch. I don’t really need dimming at the wall anyway. Am I right in my uneducated guess that the dimming happens entirely within the existing switch so replacing with a switch without dimming is fine?

That’s correct. You can swap it for a normal switch and simply lose dimming ability.

They should pay you more for being on here :grinning:

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I have a few of the single button and one of the dual gang of this and they have been working without issues so far (I just swapped my skyconnect back to dedicated zigbee only mode and ordered a dedicated thread border router for my thread based devices to connect through instead due to multipan issues).

@sparky21 Thanks for that information and answering the questions from @ddwdiot gives me all the info I need.

They do seem to have a dimmer switch but you would have to install another single gang next to it to control your other light. ZigBee Dimmer

Yeah, it’s unfortunate that there doesn’t seem to be any combo’s of normal switches with dimmers anywhere. Ideally I would have gone with a dual gang with one of each for my use case.

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I think option 2 is best. I am about to take the keys for a new build in the next couple of months and think I have settled on Shelly with the existing wall plates. I have solid wifi and I can trouble shoot it easier. I have tried zigbee and zwave in the past but am leaning toward wifi.
I think the tech landscape is changing so fast at the moment I would rather replace a whole bunch of Shelly’s in 5-10 years with the latest products.