Good call!
I have a power plug monitoring our chest freezer for power usage and incase it dies … didn’t consider if the plug fails so thanks for this idea… unfortunately at the expense of your beer fridge contents 
How are you getting the Smart Plug into Device Tracker?
Edit: Nevermind, I was using ping for binary sensor - didn’t realise you can use it or nmap for device tracker 
Don’t know if anyone has posted about these yet…
From the GridConnect range at Bunnings.
Flashed it easily with tuya-convert, and made an ESPHome config for it…
esphome:
name: power_board
platform: ESP8266
board: esp01_1m
<<: !include .common_config.yaml
logger:
status_led:
pin:
number: 1
inverted: true
binary_sensor:
- platform: gpio
pin:
number: 3
inverted: true
id: button_1
internal: true
on_press:
then:
- switch.toggle:
id: master_switch
switch:
- platform: gpio
name: 'Power Board Socket 1'
id: switch_1
pin: 5
- platform: gpio
name: 'Power Board Socket 2'
id: switch_2
pin: 4
- platform: gpio
name: 'Power Board Socket 3'
id: switch_3
pin: 13
- platform: gpio
name: 'Power Board Socket 4'
id: switch_4
pin: 12
- platform: template
name: "Master Switch"
id: master_switch
optimistic: true
internal: true
turn_on_action:
- switch.turn_on: switch_1
- switch.turn_on: switch_2
- switch.turn_on: switch_3
- switch.turn_on: switch_4
turn_off_action:
- switch.turn_off: switch_1
- switch.turn_off: switch_2
- switch.turn_off: switch_3
- switch.turn_off: switch_4
Seems to be working very well!
6 Likes
Also the dimmable security light from Arlec/Gridconnect at Bunnings…
Similarly no issues flashing with tuya-convert, and here is the ESPHome config for that one…
esphome:
name: security_light
platform: ESP8266
board: esp01_1m
<<: !include .common_config.yaml
logger:
light:
- platform: monochromatic
name: "Security Light"
output: output_1
output:
- platform: esp8266_pwm
id: output_1
pin: 14
3 Likes
I have the plug flashed with ESPhome and am using the device tracker in that
I think you’re right… that type of failure has me worried about my 4 kogan plugs and whether they pose a fire risk.
I’d be sending that photo to kogan to ask for at least a replacement.
Any idea what component it was that failed?
I bought one and flashed it with Tasmota. I will change to esphome now you have shared that config.
Is this a power supplier?
The vaporised part is a multilayer ceramic capacitor. They are notorious for failing short circuit under mechanical stress: https://product.tdk.com/info/en/products/capacitor/ceramic/mlcc/technote/solution/mlcc02/index.html
Having taken a few of these apart it’s obvious that the PCB is under some mechanical stress due to the use of nice over sized (but inflexible) LV cabling between the socket and PCB and the limited space available under the PCB.
Looks like a bunch of cascading failures after that due to the vaporised metal inside the case creating conduction paths for the LV into the ELV circuit.
Nice to see it was contained well. I’ve got 19 of those around the place.
1 Like
I’m very interested in the Brilliant Smart Dimmer Mech (link)
But before ordering, I’d like some feedback form someone who’s used one.
Can anyone here tell me:
- Does the dimming work well with dimmable LED bulbs without any flicker?
- Can it be flashed with Tasmota using Tuya Convert?
- Can the serial interface headers be accessed by un-clipping the plastic casing?
1 Like
I was in my local bunnings today, and had a look at their “Smrt Home” display. Noticed a Device that resembled a Sonoff basic they called it “In-Line switch module with grid connect” No pricing, nothing on the website, and nobody around at the time to ask.
Looks like the available range is increasing!
Hi Mark,
I have one of these dimmers running 6 downlights with no flickering issues.
I flashed tasmota using Tura-convert so didn’t open up the case to check for serial headers.
The Tuya-MCU config works. To finish setting it up, I ran the commands:
TuyaMCU 21,2
dimmerrange 1,255
1 Like
Hi Brad… I just used your ESPHome config successfully—thanks!
Out of interest, how did you come up with those values for current_res and voltage_div?
Thank you Craig - this is exactly what I was looking for.
Hi Ben
It was trial and error using an old 60w incandescent bulb and a multimeter until I got it right.
Wow, dedication!
I was just wondering, as voltage seems to be reading a bit low (just based on what my solar smartmeter reads as current AC voltage—voltage at the socket is likely somewhat lower, but I didn’t think it’d be that much. e.g. currently reading 240.8V on the meter, and 225.7V on the Kogan). Haven’t checked with a multimeter (or any calibrated device) though.
You have to calibrate each one. They’ll all be different.
Start with the voltage then do the current. An iron or a toasted sandwich maker make good test loads. One of these helps:
1 Like
Merry Christmas everyone. I’ve put up a blog post about setting up the Brilliant Smart Ceiling Fan Remote: https://newadventuresinwi-fi.blogspot.com/2019/12/brilliant-smart-ceiling-fan-remote-in-home-assistant.html
5 Likes
You can find these light at some Aldi stores. I initially bought 2 box at $80 each. Last week I bought 2 more at $50 each. I might go back to their last box (Chatswood). They flash with tuya-convert.