Has anyone flashed Tasmota onto the Arlec CCT R80 globe? There is no specific template for it as yet, but are thinking it will be the same as the regular Arlec CCT globe, as the specs are the same.
The 2 globes I got in the starter kit actually show as an R80 icon in smart life, where as my single globe shows as a normal globe icon. But maybe that detection would suggest not the same.
This is the light on the front porch, so will be unpopular if it’s out of action because of me messing with it.
I’ve bought one of these Jinvoo 3 Gang WiFi Wall Switch from Amazon. Works well and is Aus Certified.
Got mine for $23 a month or so ago but now seem to be $30, still not a bad price.
edit: model link
Have you flashed it with Tuya Convert ?? Work OK ??
Craig
Anyone here have a robot vacuum they use in Australia? Any tips or recommendations for ones that are compatible with Home Assistant, preferably one with dual floor mapping.
IMO depends on budget! I have the Roomba i7+ and it’s amazing, but not on the cheap side. Others have the roborock/xiaomi which does the job nicely, not sure on their specific mapping features, but I know there’s a floor plan integration you can get in HA to achieve the same result (that’s my understanding anyway)
The native Roomba integration dosent have full functionality (like selective cleaning) so I created my own using a third party api (but still controlled locally) 
I’ve got the S5 Max - it suits me, as I have a big “mopping” need. I haven’t got it in HA though. 1) Not sure if you can yet, and 2) Haven’t tried to extract the token/key yet. Supposely it can be done with a pretty simple program these days, but it requires resetting it to factory default, which I’m not keen to do at the moment!
You should only need to reset the wifi, it keeps the existing mapping data. I have wifi reset my S5 a number of times
Just a word of warning with the Kogan smart plugs (in my case the gen 1, without USB) , although this could happen with other brands.
I have just had two fail within days of each other, bringing my total of failed units to three. Basically catastrophic internal failure.
The first time it was one monitoring power use on my beer fridge and luckily I was home to ensure the beers didn’t go warm. Unfortunately this most recent event was both my dishwasher plug and kitchen fridge plug. The dishwasher doesn’t matter too much as it was only for notifications, however the kitchen fridge… well, we were away for 4 days so the contents were ruined and the house stinks.
Moral of the story, don’t use them on anything critical. I learnt the hard way. Needless to say the WAF of Home Automation has taken a serious hit in my household.
Hey guys looking for some smoke alarms I can integrate into HA what is available for use in Australia? I understand Nest are pulling their API so they’re out.
I had a Sonoff POW on both the wine fridge and kitchen fridge for years with no troubles… Just a couple of weeks ago I replaced them with Kogan smart plugs with 2USB ports… So far so good.
I did however receive a unit with a faulty earth receptacle. Seems like it’s bent slightly to the right and so the earth pin slides in next to rather than between the two pieces of copper.
Given that hard-wired smoke alarms are legally required now (at least before selling or renting the house) one option is to have a relay unit installed which triggers whenever the smoke alarm goes off. These are specially designed for use with smoke alarms. They connect to the ‘interconnect’ terminal of smoke detectors such that when you have a number of detectors in your house all hard-wired together (as they are supposed to be), any detector going into alarm will trigger the others, and this relay. You can then interface the relay to HA via an ESPhome node or whatever else you like.
Hmm,
Do you think they might have been overloaded ? a dishwasher if heating the water would normally require a fair amount of power wouldn;t it ? I am currently using mine on our dryer which draws a maximum of 1750 watts so a reasonable amount of leeway in terms of power budget - i might run a Temp sensor on there for a couple of weeks and see what happens when it is in use
I have rolled out a couple of these recently so will make sure i set them up in my automation dashboard to tell me if things are not responding etc - nothing critical at this stage until i am comfortable they are stable.
When you had them open did they have much protection against spikes from inductive loads (like motors in fridges etc ??)
Craig
The fridge only used about 250W from memory., the dishwasher I think got up to about 1600W or so, not sure. I haven’t yet opened up the latest casualties as I’m still away. The first one to go I did open but can’t remember / didn’t fully take note of the circuit design. It did have a MOV in there but that’s about all I can think of right now
Hmm,
You would think they would be OK with resistive loads, but a little worried (based on what you have said) about motor spikes etc.
I might have to sacrifice one and pull it apart. Then agan you would think we would be hearing from a lot more people if these things were catching fire etc
Craig
It doesn’t damage them to open them up. You won’t be sacrificing it. I’ll open up these latest fried ones when I get home tomorrow and post photos.
I’ve had 4 of the originals do the same thing. Running on my HA machine, Fish Tank heater & pump, washing machine and dishwasher.
I’ve replaced them all with the gen 2 versions with the USBs. No issues so far.
I was reading some information about emergency power supplies - generators and such - and the info I read suggested that fridges are difficult because they have significant motor load on startup. So that might be an issue even if it is only pulling 250W (1A) on running, the startup load might be significantly more.
They shouldn’t be overloading as they are rated to carry a max of 10A just like a standard socket outlet. If they can’t handle a standard appliance they really aren’t fit for purpose.
I’ll have a look. My smoke detectors are hard wired just the 2 of them. I see you can also get ones that interlink wirelessly.
As far as I can tell there is no way to take the new Kogan smart power plugs with 2 USB sockets apart without damaging them.
