Thanks, I’ll have to be a little more aggressive in trying to open it
1 Like
Yeah the look pretty normal. Status, up time, activity.
After some searching I’m trying SetOption65 1 to hopefully prevent memory loss after power is cut.
Obviously I need to dig further into these docs though, there is a little more to it than I expected.
I’ll keep testing it with some time intervals in between. I guess as the ultimate backup If I go through with it I can always rip out the board once it’s installed. Lol with the power off of course.
Oh is there any practical reason I shouldn’t be able to test it all put back together the way I did? Just the live and neutral connected to mains?
Yeah test it with 240v. Just DONT connect to any of the pins on the board.
Yep good call - even though it says in the pictures neutral not required and the same in the description - the seller has responded that it does in fact need it - as have a couple of other posters.
Also the Aussie certification seems a little iffy - he seems to indicate it fits the socket so hence is compliant !
Craig
Sorry for the late delay Linton. The Pi is my home assistant server/MQTT broker. I have a seperate SD card I use running Pi OS to take advantage of the GPIO pins if I ever need to serial flash a device. The Pi doesn’t run any automation via GPIO just uses wifi.
It’s a tight arse version of avoiding buying an USB to serial device adapter😂
You can power your device on the 3v3 (or 5v if you find one)rail to test it. Once flashed and powered up it should act as if it were plugged into mains on its web interface. Historically everything has worked fine once assembled except once device which was fine after a 2nd erase/flash.
The default setting for Tasmota is to do a hard reset if the power is cycled 7 times I believe. In my experience, it seems to happen much easier, I’ve had it from plugging and unplugging a device only once so I’m guessing there was intermittent connectivity as I either plugged in or removed the plug, enough that it triggered the hard reset.
I always run “SetOption65 1” which disables this setting.
I don’t know for sure that is what happened to you but it sounds like that was possibly the cause.
1 Like
I don’t see that serial on Blackadder. So you are probably correct that it is a new version.
In saying that are you sure that’s the correct serial no.? I didn’t see it in the bunnings website.
I did a PB88UHA arlec smart power board a month or so ago. It worked fine with tuya convert and Blackadder template/tasmota
Yes - that was definitely the right part no. After I bought it i also looked on both Bunnings and Arlec websites and didn’t find it. I actually returned it to bunningas as I then saw that the power points were not individually controllable, so no better than a dumb power board plugged into a single smart power point.
1 Like
That device PB4KSHA only has one relevant hit on google, and that is an arlec page. Unfortunately it doesn’t actually appear on that arlec page.
Hi all, first post on here so be kind if this has been asked before I have searched and can’t find any definite answers, so has anyone one had any success flashing the Arlec Smart home hub. iam planning to use the hub with the Arlec temperature and humidity sensor.
I think people have generally been flashing the arlec kit to completely bypass the hub, rather than flashing the hub. But I may yet be corrected 
There are better options for this sort of thing, like a Xiaomi Hub and family of devices, or using a CC2531 USB and running Zigbee2mqtt. I use the later and you can add devices from almost any Zigbee manufacturer.
Experimental but very promising.
Much more accessible (from Bunnings) than the Xiaomi
Thanks mate, that’s my problem I live rural so Bunnings is a lot easier for me to get hold of otherwise I could be waiting on packages
1 Like
Hey Michael,
It was definitely that issue as far as I can tell. Once I set the option the config stayed in tact on both my quads.
Sparky booked in for Saturday morning so i’m very excited. Just gotta quickly flash one more before they arrive.
Hey Azza,
Being late to respond can also be a strong skill of mine from time to time too 
Ultimately I decided to go with a serial flasher so I could just plug it into windows.
Linux and I are friends, but we’re not that close to be able to mess with first time flashing at the same time 
Tasmotizer looked just too easy to pass up, and it was
Has anyone tried this on the Kogan panel heaters?
The newer firmware started to be pushed near the end of May for grid connect devices. It’s going to be safe to assume that most of the Arlec/Deta products purchased off the shelf soon will have this firmware. I had issues with one deta 2 gang after I stupidly did their OTA upgrade and all my 3/4 gang switches needed to be flashed via serial.
Some brands like brilliant are actually starting to use a similar WR3 chipset. Which cannot be flash flashed due to the ARM chipset.