Brilliant fan controller. It comes with an RF remote for local control even if HA is down or the internet is offline.
You will be able to integrate with HA via the Tuya integration or Tuya-local custom integration.
If you ever change your mind you can flash it with Tasmota.
Well @sparkydave that was a perfect answer. Thank you. FWIW, I elected to go with the 99111 model (https://www.brilliantlighting.com.au/product/smart-wifi-ac-fan-remote-9c0224), that exchanges the hand held remote for a wall plate version of the same thing. Avoids the inevitable event of having to shout āWHO TOOK THE REMOTEā when entering the room.
Yeah, thatās what I have too. I accidentally linked the wrong model. Glad you found a solution that you like.
Anyone here bought gear from Smart Guys Australia ?
Looking at the IoTaWatt mains monitor from them, want to make sure they are a reliable supplier.
Thanks anyone.
Yep I bought a Conbee from them with no dramas.
Yep Iāve bought a few things from them - shelly power monitor, conbee. Quick delivery, no issues.
Anyone have experience with one of these?
I want to monitor energy on our 3 phase A/C but solutions like iotawatt are $150+ to achieve this. Shelly 3EM doesnāt seem available in Aus and also very expensive. It looks to be a tuya PC321-Z-TY.
edit: looks like the price shown is just the gateway and the meter is out of stock
Excellent news. Iāll order shortly.
Not seen that monitor before.
Thoughts are, only 3 CT inputs, I need 7 CTās to fully monitor my loads, so Iād need 2.3x Units, so back to over $300 AU 
That device doesnāt seem to have au/nz certification.
Good additional point, no au/nz certification.
BTW where do I find that information for the locally sold IoTaWatt ?
Donāt see it on the Smart Guys websiteā¦
If I remember rightly I donāt think iotawatt is physically connected to your mains. It has a wallwart.
Thats correct - you power it through a USB Wall Wart (5v) and you put an AC transformer that you purchase from Jaycar into an inlet that is used to monitor the voltage of the mains incoming
Once this is done the CT clamps are placed around the relevant wire circuits - active line only - which by rights (legally) should be done by a qualified electrician.
Craig
You maybe right legally, but damned if I can see the logic behind that.
Same Here - nanny state
Where do you buy your cr2032/cr1632 etc batteries from? Just Energizer or Panasonicās from Coles or Bunnings etc?
Any tips on buying cheap in bulk but high quality?
Hope the off-topic post is ok. Figure there would be enough interest and knowledge in hereā¦ Hard to get Oz info/responses elsewhere.
I tend to get mine from bunnings. I stick to better named brands such a Duracell also.
IKEA 2032 batteries seem to work well also.
I figure the small premium in cost for a ābetterā battery means less stuffing around trying to work out why the device has lights on but wonāt connect scenarios. I have also be burnt to many times by cheap coin cell batteries.
In saying that, I use Amazon to buy for the one million random obscure coin cell batteries that my children a toys seem to run on.
Poor quality coin cell batteries may work initially but in my experience can just stop working without showing any significant voltage drop (battery level).
I use aqara temperature sensors in my fridges and freezers as the Duracell 2032 batteries work well. Other brands have been hit and miss.
I have considered looking into industrial suppliers (blackwoods etc) as you may be able to get bulk and reasonable quality.
I would would say understand the target device, ease of access, what happens if it stops working and tailor the price to that. Best product you can afford for the scenario.
Good point - making sure it is compliant is almost as important as if it actually works well.
Iām just looking for a single 3 phase load monitor that that isnāt overkill, as I already have whole of house consumption monitoring with my enphase solar.
An open circuit CT is quite a dangerous thing because it must satisfy the ampere-turns relationship. If the CT is connected around an active conductor but the secondary terminals are not connected, the current will want to flow somehow - whether it breaks down the insulation or arcs at the terminals. This induces very hazardous voltages at the terminals.
The rules of working with CTs are simple: always on a deenergised circuit, and never open circuit. Thatās why itās important that itās installed by someone qualified though.
I think Iām happy to pay for long life.
A year of battery sounds nice, but when you have say 25 devices, thatās a battery swap roughly every two weeks. Becomes a minor maintenance nuance.
Might even look into swapping some over to cr123aās.
Always laugh when i see these types of ānanny stateā arguments by unqualified people. I was reading a thread on Whirlpool recently where someone recommended cutting strands out of a 2.5mm cable so it fits into a device with a small terminals.