Sounds like a decent option!!
My batteries have been holding pretty well. Mine were not GiEX Branded when I bought them. I also have zigbee repeaters one wall away from my soil moisture meters.
I do like the idea of 433mhz devices.
I bought the first batch, they apparently fixed it in a later batch, but you canāt upgrade the firmward so theyāre bricks. So rather than buy them again (and theyāre pretty bloody big tbh) I went with the 433Mhz ones.
I donāt mind the size, save the Mrs slaughtering them when she is in the garden. I did look at those 433 ones but could not find an easy way to integrate.
Can you upgrade the firmware if you connect it to a Tuya Hub and upgrade the firmware through the Smart Life or Tuya App?
for the ecowitt 433mhz soil sensors you can use the ecowitt bridge/wifi gateway gw1100 theres an add on in HA, you just punch in the IP data via the web interface on the wifi gateway and its good to go.
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Anyone here using the Aqara T2 Dual Relay? Any feedback? Doesnāt appear to have neutral and not sure if it would work with dimmable LEDās? According to this review the product could receive native thread support in the future
Yes it has a N, I have one at the moment and it was easy to pair directly via zigbee to my HA instance. I am still trying to get an electrician to reply back to me and install the one I have for me where I need it.
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Itās just an ON/OFF relay so it has no ability to perform dimming. If you connect dimmable LEDās to it they will only ever turn on at full brightness, which is fine if thatās all you want them to do.
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No, I bought a tuya zigbee gateway for that specific reason. But you canāt.
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Anyone know of an Australian standard certified ZHA zigbee 4 socket powerboard with inbuilt power monitoring ?
Thanks
Regarding this post made back in January: Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware - #5582 by solarjunkie
If anyone is tempted to get the uncertified plug - donāt.
It switches the neutral not the active. Potentially leading dangerous electrocution risk if a fault develops in the equipment you are switching.
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Absolutely. Yes I swapped the non compliant ones out - which was a complete PITA. Not only did they cost me money (They are no longer in use in my house), it took alot of HA reprogramming. Iām not into doing things by the cheap - To the contrary, I purchased these in Australia in good faith (believing they were legit and imported to the relevant Australian standards) - the product snuck thru the usual safety checking - because of the lax safety checking in this country. If (you know who) can sneak them inā¦ they will ! Yes. It agree. It is a case of buyer beware.
So I am after a compliant power board. Not a single GPO plug. A power board. And I said Australian Standard certified in the request 
Hey guys - back here I was talking about potentially replacing my hot water timer with something integrated with HA. Someone suggested to get a shelly switch like this as an option to replace my timer, and then everything can integrate into HA nicely, and I can set up timers within HA (or maybe the shelly page directly?) to turn my HWS on/off so I can get solar, but then if need be I can manually override it and have it turn on/off when I want.
At the moment weāre tossing up whether to just use the existing dumb timer and just make it turn on later at night to ensure we have hot water through the night (though this seems like it might be a waste of power if we donāt need it?), replacing our hot water system (most expensive option) or integrating it into HA.
I had a bit of a weird idea that I donāt know if itās possible or not, but this would at the moment rely on a manual trigger within HA that would turn on the hot water booster - probably a button on the dashboard/assist line or something. This isnāt the end of the world, but this is HA weāre talking about. Does anyone know if thereād be some way to track how much hot water weāve used on a given day? Then if weāre close to running out, it can turn on the hot water system to make sure it stays hot for us through the night if we need it? I donāt think Iāve seen anything like that that can do it, but I just thought Iād ask, as that would be ideal!
Thanks in advanced!
Whatever you do just make sure you fully heat the whole tank to 60Ā°C at least once per week to kill Legionella bacteria.
This would be a daily thing as this is our main hot water line for us. At the moment itās running daily (starting at 9am to use power from the solar), but maybe the combination of the cold weather/family staying with us at the moment/the system being old means that every so often (maybe once a week?) we run out of hot water during the day, so this is a solution to that. Either way though, it would be fully heated at least once a day, though it seems like in some cases maybe twice a day
Add a temperature sensor to the HW tank - a PT1000 sensor connected to an ESP32 running ESPHome will do it over Wifi, or an Inkbird IBS-TH1 over Bluetooth. Place the sensor at the tank outlet (E.g. just cable tie in place to the pipe as close to the tank as possible). It doesnāt need to accurately read the water temperature, just give a relative indication that you can use to trigger an automation.
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Why stop at one sensor? 
I used DS18B20 sensors and ESPHome. The ones on the pipes are only really accurate when water is flowing. The tank sensor I slipped under the insulation behind an inspection panel half way up.
I use a Shelly PM to switch the heat pump on in the middle of the day (off-peak, or usually excess solar power) and to measure power consumption.
I cut off the heat pump when the differential between in and out of the heat exchanger is 30Ā°C as after that the COP plummets. This has enough hot water for me.
Fridays the tank always gets a full heat cycle and there is an override that heats the tank fully if I have guests staying.
Saves me about 2kWh a day.
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Because thatās all thatās needed for the OPās use case 
With my setup I monitor the tank top and bottom temperatures, and the solar collector temperature, courtesy of serial data from the HWS controller, and switch the booster as required with a Shelly PM in the switchboard, and an automation that takes into account temperature and power price.
I love this so much but I probably shouldnātā¦ Iāll need to think on it and figure out how things work! Out of curiosity, how is everyone making their esps outdoor safe? I donāt have a 3d printer, nor a lot of diy experience, so doing something like this is a little scary, but Iām open to learning and to getting ideas