Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

I don’t believe the integration is the issue, honestly. The problem seems to be with the LIFX lights themselves not staying connected. Originally, I had everything working well, with VLANs and firewall rules all set up nicely, but then everything stopped working. For two days, I couldn’t connect anything to the IoT SSID, including the LIFX lights, even after resetting them!

I eventually reset my UDM SE, along with all the APs and switches. After that, the lights connected again and seemed stable, but now only half of them remain online.

I’ve tried various settings and currently have them configured as you suggested, but I removed my IoT VLAN to simplify things. I’m starting to think it might be a Zigbee interference issue since I have a large Zigbee network. I’m planning to look into that over the weekend.

Do you have your devices on an IoT network and IoT SSID? Could you share your rules and specific configurations?

LIFX lights seem so unstable to me. I’ve had them since they first came out, and I’ve had to reconnect them countless times. For example, my Z strip won’t connect to my network anymore—it takes about five resets just to get it to connect, and even then, it only stays online for a few days.

Nope, I have a single network but multiple SSIDs.

My LIFX bulbs are rock solid though. I’ve never had to reset a single one, except on the rare occassion I change the Wi-Fi credentials. They may drop off momentarily, but they come back usually in less than a minute or so.

Remember the LAN protocol is UDP based, so there is no stateful connection between a bulb and the LIFX app or Home. What you see as “disconnected” is just “haven’t spoken to this bulb for a while”.

However, the Cloud protocol is HTTPS which is stateful, which is why the LIFX Cloud can be connected but local apps show them as disconnected.

Have you checked that you are still using the best radio frequencies ? Maybe a close neighbour upgraded their wi-fi router without telling you, and is now broadcasting their stuff on the same channel you are using ? That could explain why the change was quite sudden.

I just discovered yesterday that my new neighbour seems to be using the same 2.4 and 5GHz channels as I am - but I doubt she knows anything about it, so probably just the routers default settings. Or maybe one of those channel-hopping ones that will swap the day after I change the channels I am using :frowning:

FWIW, I also have a few Lifx bulbs and not had any problem with them. Good luck tracking down the fix.

Excellent tips thank you

Yeah I’ve done a few scans and changed different channels from one six to 11 even the in between channels. Also trying single broadcast AP and multi broadcast AP

Do you use unify?

Somehow it’s just since I started using unify it worked fine on Google mesh although I did have to rejoin them once every few months

The lifx switches are also very unstable

I just bought a whole bunch of these so it’s a lot of money to throw out. If they were stable I’d be happy.

If anyone is Melbourne wants lifx devices. I have heaps (lots of new ones ) I am no longer using

gu10

Downlights

Switches

Lots of different bulbs

All lifx.

Will sell them for pretty cheap.

As I can’t be bothered going through and selling them individually on eBay. And I’d rather support this community.

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What are these zigbee? thread? thanks

I have just set up an OpenThread Border router in HA. What is the best Matter/thread device available right now (available in Aus) that will work right out the box and bind to OpenThread Border Router - so I can test if my thread set up is working and remains stable. Do Nanonoleafs work for example? Any other suggestions? thanks

Wifi 2.4ghz

Hue Zigbee works great with HA that’s because Zigbee and Hue have been around a very long time with huge world wide use so lots of HA integration support. Yes they are expensive but you get what you pay for. As for Thread right now? forget it - it seems…

yeah i have a lot of zigbee going. its great

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Ok so I’ve got an Eve Energy Smart Plug and Power Meter up an running on an OpenThread Border Network in HA - but I have to say a couple comments. 1/ Thread is (so far) total rubbish! You have to jump thru multiple hurdles to “add a simple power” socket! 2/ HA sees it as a “Router End device”. So what does that mean is it a Router? or an End device? How can it be both? 3/ The product itself is huge. Expect it to take up the entire footprint of a double GPO 4/ It was $69! 5/ Things are going to have to drastically improve if I was to roll out these in a hurry. Rock on simple Zigbee! Just MO!!!

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I’m seeking advice as to a quality LED supplier in OZ. Obviously looking for quality of product and reliability of service. Previous advice to move to a meanwell power supply has been great.
Pat

Are you looking for smart LED’s, downlights, strips, bulbs…?

Hey fellow Aussies, I was wondering if someone could help out:

I have electrical underfloor which was originally controlled by an analog thermostat that was installed in the wrong location (10m from the actual underfloor circuit and in a cold hallway which meant that the thermostat was unusable as it basically meant that the underfloor heating was always on…).

I had an electrician install a zigbee dry contact relay to operate the contactor for the heating in the switchboard and have a couple of zigbee temp sensors on the floor to help control the heating through home assistant and a generic thermostat and that’s working beautifully.
I should’ve asked the electrician to remove the old Honeywell thermostat at the same time, but forgot. As this thing is an absolute eyesore, I want to take this out completely as it serves no purpose whatsoever.

This is the schematic for my model thermostat.

There’s 2 wires going to the thermostat which I assume to be switch wires due to the colour (one red, one white). The red one is Live (verified with multimeter).
Red was connected to ‘2’ on the thermostat and white to ‘3’.

So am I ok to connect these two wires up to make thinking that that’s basically what the old thermostat did anyway or am I about to create a short?? :sweat_smile::innocent:

Yes. (I created an edit for you)

Sorry,
Mostly outdoor led strips. But i’m still after a good underwater led for pools that is 12v and is just bare wired and doesn’t come with silly flashing controllers.
Pat

I appreciate that this is a licensed electrician’s job but when the original sparky didn’t bother to remove it (sure, I didn’t ask specifically but I clearly spelled out the intent to get rid of the thermostat, hence the zigbee relay), doesn’t want to come back to take care of it (like most tradies I’ve had the misfortune of dealing with who can’t be bothered to warrant or provide after service for their work since there’s no money in it for them anymore) and getting another sparky to come in will cost an arm and a leg for what most likely will be connecting 2 wires together whilst I’ve personally been out of a job since the start of July, one could hopefully be forgiven for asking a question on a forum in search of a more constructive response.

I fully get it, don’t worry it was supposed to be kinda tongue-in-cheek.

Apologies then :sweat_smile:, just been cranky of late due to the situation :innocent:
I’ve been doing home improvement projects around the house to keep me busy and have been running into issues everywhere that leave me unable to finish off the last 10% of pretty much every project I start which leaves the house looking like a mess even though I’m so close to completion on a lot of these. And of course this makes the wifey annoyed :face_with_hand_over_mouth:

So if anyone has any insights into this, I’d very much appreciate it. Logic to me would be that the old analog thermostat wouldn’t be able to do anything more than either ‘connect those two wires together’ so to speak based on the measured temp or not. So if I permanently connect these and have the contactor activated/deactivated via my zigbee relay that’s basically the same as having the thermostat there and setting it to 30 degrees to make sure it never switches off which is how it’s been working up until now.

Yeah, that’s exactly what you can do. Essentially you would be putting the contactor in between those two wires, but in a more convenient location.