start with finding out how you can use that relay without any other sensors.
probably best by searching for “arduino your_relay_switch_type sketch”
if you have the relay working, then you can try to integrate that code into the BRUH sensor code.
start with finding out how you can use that relay without any other sensors.
probably best by searching for “arduino your_relay_switch_type sketch”
if you have the relay working, then you can try to integrate that code into the BRUH sensor code.
Was that last week? LOL
I dig the lego idea. A Lego house on my kids dressers would fit in very well and be unnoticeable.
i was talking about my physical childhood, not my mental childhood
I’d definitely like to know if you get this to work. I’m also interested in trying to build a similar sensor that just monitors reed switches and runs on batteries.
I was able to test this and get it working.
I used the following reed switches.
And my modified code is here.
Maybe this is the cheapest way to buy the reed switch, but isnt the reed switch inherently binary?
Why do you need a sensor board with comparator etc for a reed switch? I would think you can connect one side of the reed to a power rail and the other side to a digital pin on the esp.
Not a criticism of your approach - sometimes its just easier to do something a certain way. I’m just curious
TBH I’m not sure if it was the correct way.
I started the research into just using relays and started reading about the need for debouncing of the signals and kinda got lost with what was needed.
Such as here. http://www.esp8266.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=6426
Is this normal for a 6000 LUX sensor?
Now is 10.40am in livingroom with normal light, 72 LUX is not correct
I wish to get finally a reliable LUX sensor somehow …
in BRUH’s code for HA implementation it says in line 31
##This sensor is not calibrated to actual LUX. Rather, this a map of the input voltage ranging from 0 - 1023.
So I guess you should calibrate it somehow
that makes only sense if you want to compare it with someone else.
for automations, just find out your own important values.
Sure, I don’t need exact lux. But relative values should be accurate.
Like this the sensor is useless
if it gives the same value every time with the same amount of light you can use it.
if my sensors falls below 150 outside the lights inside are turned on.
i really dont have any clue how many lux that would be, it is my lightsensor value
Correct.
In my case relative values are wrong : strong oscillation of values.
Is anyone experiencing the same?
that could be related to an unstable power input.
stabelized 5v input is very important.
or a week connection somewhere.
I am using does common smartphone chargers: are they usually stabilized?
i have had several cheap chargers that gave problems.
the cheao ones are good enough for charging, but lots off times not good enough to power arduino, esp or nodemcu.
Rene is right. Same thing with LEDs too; I was going through IR LED arrays until I finally did some research and found out that you really can’t get away with using phone chargers, especially cheap ones in most cases for DIY stuff like LEDs and computing devices.
You really need to get a dedicated, stabilized ADAPTER (as opposed to ‘charger’) with the correct voltage specs. It’s usually only a few bucks more if you search but worth it in the end compared to issues/damaged devices.
a link, just to understand