if it gives the same value every time with the same amount of light you can use it.
if my sensors falls below 150 outside the lights inside are turned on.
i really dont have any clue how many lux that would be, it is my lightsensor value 
1 Like
Correct.
In my case relative values are wrong : strong oscillation of values.
Is anyone experiencing the same?
that could be related to an unstable power input.
stabelized 5v input is very important.
or a week connection somewhere.
I am using does common smartphone chargers: are they usually stabilized?
i have had several cheap chargers that gave problems.
the cheao ones are good enough for charging, but lots off times not good enough to power arduino, esp or nodemcu.
2 Likes
Rene is right. Same thing with LEDs too; I was going through IR LED arrays until I finally did some research and found out that you really can’t get away with using phone chargers, especially cheap ones in most cases for DIY stuff like LEDs and computing devices.
You really need to get a dedicated, stabilized ADAPTER (as opposed to ‘charger’) with the correct voltage specs. It’s usually only a few bucks more if you search but worth it in the end compared to issues/damaged devices.
1 Like
a link, just to understand
this is ana power adapter from 5v
if I sum all all the parts, I just buy the most expensive fibaro sensor, it will cost me less. Hope is good
maybe its time for you to realise that cheap isnt Always about money.
from what i have read from you,
- you dont want to solder
- you dont want to create things yourselve
- you dont want to learn to program things
- you dont have patience
- …
so stop trying to find cheap ways. just buy things that are more expensive and which are working with the least amount of efford.
4 Likes
I built a version to keep track of temp/humidity in my (small) wine cellar. I ordered a wood box from AliExpress so that I could stain it to match my wine racking. Works well and is very inconspicuous. Although I need to add some ventilation as the temp sensor reads +3F with the lid on the box closed.
I modified the software Bruh provided so that the wifi info and mqtt parameters doesn’t need to be hard-coded. I need to push that up to Github…
2 Likes
Would you please share the code, I was trying to modify Ben’s code to use in another of my project where I wanted to initialize variables from eeprom.
Beside these do not have a miniUSB plug, what I have to cut it and solder a miniUSB plug … oh no…
Any good power adaptor with a miniUSB?
they are not more expensive, they are less expensive then a DIY solution like this (I am trying to understand if they are good, so far the light sensors are NOT enough good: Neo Coolcam, xiaomi flower,)
To me a DIY solution has to be either better or cheaper (preferably both). In this case the DIY is worse and more expensive … so why should I do that?
Besides I do have happy-bubbles (I think same nodemcu) charged by a USB charger and is working perfectly. I guess the problem is just for the light sensor
the barebone from the sensors (nodumcu and power) costs me around 8 to 10 euro.
and i can stick any sensor i like to it (PIR, IP, 433 mhz, light, temp, humidity, radar, motion, magnet, power, relays, sound, and many more)
try finding a decent PIR, sound, humidity sensor that can turn on a switch and also is easy to implement in HA.
a) you wont find it and
b) if you find anything like it you will pay 40 euro or more and
c) you have to hope that HA can work with it.
in this case its the light sensor, it could also give wrong motion detection, fluctuation in humidity or temperature.
some sensors have more problem with it then others.
Any good power adaptor with a miniUSB?
amazon search, google search?
read the feedback from products, to make sure it is a decent product.
thanks for your help
1 Like
What a cool project! I’m curious if anyone has built this with a Feather Huzzah https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/adafruit-feather-huzzah-esp8266.pdf. it has one analog pin so I think it should work. I’ve got all the other parts but I do not have a node MCU board.