Yeah I got myself a 220nf capacitor but since the foil worked I didn’t bother soldering it on. Glad to hear it works though. Just wondering what do your potentiometers say on them. Both mine say 105 even though one should be 104 so my cheap sensor from ebay only works in the first mm of rotation.
link? Thanks
Google “Monoprice Mini Select”. Can’t miss it.
I’d suggest watching a few of the YouTube videos first so you have an idea of what to expect.
mmhh I don’t see it sold in Europe
Here’s one source but it’s out of stock at the moment:
Note: The MP Mini Select is also referred to as the Malyan M200, so you may wnat to search for that also.
mmhh yes, and only shop selling it, I think its a US shop anyhow. Thanks, will check further
The Wanhao Duplicator is available via Amazon.it It’s a little bigger build plate for not much more. Based on the Prusa i3, it’s pretty popular as well. Another printer with a very active user base.
Best I can offer, Claudio…
totally new to this world. Prusa i3 are many model (from 240 Euro)
Prusa i3 is a model of printer made by Josef Prusa. It was designed as open source, so there are many variants made by other companies, but the basis of the printer and it’s functions are the same. The model I offered above is one of those variants. It is made by Wanhao but based on the Prusa i3 original design.
As far as which one of the i3 variants is best for you, you’ll have to do your research on that. I don’t really know and differences may take in account regional things like language and available support and resources in your country. You can start with reading some of the reviews in Amazon.IT
Folks; just to keep things on track here, if there are any more 3D printer questions, let’s start a new thread for them and I’ll be glad to add what I can and what I know (so far) to it. But I don’t want us to stray to far off the original topic, OK?
Thanks!
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Why the need for all the holes? My thought was to cut holes just large enough for the sensors and led to be visible/readable and everything else would be sealed inside. (PIR & LED would protrude a bit)
Does the NodeMCU generate heat?
I think it may, but I haven’t actually applied any scientific measurements or anything, so… But I definitely get about a 4 to 6 degree temp difference with the sensor in or out of the box. Out of the box measures very close (maybe 1 degree off) to the reading on the thermostat in the same room.
It does generate a bit of heat. I have it covered in cardboard and it gets slightly warm.
what is good to use it guys?
I sidestepped the problem by assigning the blue led to the D0 pin instead of the D3.
Does it still let you display blue?
Odd, mine will turn off with the switch. When I first plug it in it is blue. Then if I turn it off then back on it is white. Then again, I do not have my PIR installed yet (still have not arrived).
Also did you change the code?
Oh yes, sorry, i’ve not been very clear about it.
With this modification, no problem displaying blue color.
I had to change the code loaded on the nodemcu
/**************************** PIN DEFINITIONS ********************************************/
const int redPin = D1;
const int greenPin = D2;
const int bluePin = D0;
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I thought this was for the DHT sensor. There isn’t an opening in the Bruh case for it, so I assumed it was to provide access for the DHT to sense the ambient temp/humidity.