BRUH DIY Multisensor


#671

Can’t you make use of my repository? It’s really just changing the pins such that D3, D4, D8 are not used. There is a video by The Hook Up explaining the issue:


#672

Hi firstof9,

If I define MQ2 to A0 for ESP8266 board which has only 1 analog output on this board. How do I define the other analog output for MQ135 connection? do MQ2 and MQ135 need to be connected 5v power instead ESP8266 onboard 3.3v?

thanks for your time.


#673

Yes both sensors need 5V to run.

The MQ2 has only analog out, so you’d use that.
The MQ135 has a digital out, so any other available pin for that.


#674

Appreciate your help.

You have (2) for MQ_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN in hardware related macros

/Hardware Related Macros************/
#define MQ_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN (2)
Should I change from (2) to (A0) at this location.

Or should I add another line in Pin Definitions:
#define MQ_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN A0

What is the MQ135 name needed to be defined in Pin Definitions.

What is settings for MQ135 template in HA sensor?

newLPG, newCO and newSmoke are not defined when compiling in Arduino.

thanks a lot.


#675

I’ll have a look at it again when I get a chance. It’s been a while since I submitted that PR lol


#676

I did the bruh multisensor and I installed the tasmota.
Use with pir am312, however, I can not use the rcwl-0516 radar sensor.
It operates on 5v and to use the Temt6000 light sensor on the pin a0 disable this line on the tasmota:

#define USE_ADC_VCC // Display Vcc in Power status. Disable for use Analog input on selected devices

Does anyone know a way to use the TEMT6000 sensor and the rcwl-0516 on the tasmota + esp8266 lolin?


#677

I don’t recall why I made the revisions I did, try one of the older revisions that specifies MQ135


#678

i’m running TEMT6000, but on a ESP32 devices with the espeasy firmware.


#679

Is it working perfectly?


#680

Hi. How did you wire the mq-2 to the nodemcu?


#681

Pick a analog pin, then power it.


#682

Hello Everyone,

I used the original code of Bruh from the link below


But iam not able to get the LED to work.
The light is not glowing
This is the code i used in YAML

  • platform: mqtt
    name: “Living MultiSensor Light”
    state_topic: “Seet/sensornode1”
    command_topic: “seet/sensornode1/set”
    brightness: true
    flash: true
    rgb: true
    optimistic: false
    qos: 0

#683

Ok got it working
Looks like an issue with the data in YAML
This fixed it

  • platform: mqtt
    schema: json
    name: “Living MultiSensor Light”
    state_topic: “seet/sensornode1”
    command_topic: “seet/sensornode1/set”
    brightness: true
    flash: true
    rgb: true
    optimistic: false
    qos: 0

Was missing schema: json


#684

dude use the esphome yaml cookbook - so much easier :slight_smile:


#685

@brendan So my apologies in advance for digging this back up, but this is my first foray into any kind of DIY sensors. I was interested in the BRUH sensor because he provided all (or most based on this thread) information to get you up and working. Is there somewhere I can look to become more familiar on how to get this working with ESPEasy? Or is it just a matter of flashing that firmware onto the onto the NodeMCU or would I need a different board (like an Arduino) for it, and then applying his code to it?


#686

@telecomguy
I went for ESPEasy instead of using BRUH’s code because BRUH’s is a little outdated and a bit fiddly to get operating correctly now with new versions of Home Assistant.
The ESPEasy route that I went uses the ESPEasy application. It will run on NodeMCU, D1Mini and virtually any other ESP8266 based board.
ESPEasy, rather than being a fixed setup like BRUH’s code, provides a webbased GUI to configure all the options and what each pin does. Similar to Tasmota.
This is the link for the ESPEasy Wiki https://www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/index.php/ESPEasy .
There are also quite a few YouTube videos on both ESPEasy and Tasmota.
I currently run a motion, light, humidity, barometric pressure and temperature in my “multi sensor”. I have also built one with a single neopixel LED that can be used to display any range of colours and also can be programmed as “light” in Home Assistant if needed. I don’t have it setup as a light as I just use it to show my HVAC operation mode currently.
I just got some cheapish cases, that look like those commercial HVAC sensors that attach to a wall, to put it all in.


#687

Oh wow, thanks for the information. I’ll check it out. Much appreciated.


#688

I’ve been able to backfeed power into the 3.3v pin on those device and have it mostly work. However, the RCWL is really sensitive to… something and I get false detection events, I think due to power supply sags. I need to try more filtering on the power to see if that improves the situation.


#689

Can you share solution for false positives?
How fix power supply?


#690

Sadly, I don’t have a solution to offer right now.

In another application where I did have a 5v power supply available, I used a separate 3.3V regulator to power the RCWL-0516 doppler motion sensor and it seems to work a little better. (That’s back-feeding power into the 3.3V “output” from the regulator, per https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/278674/help-reverse-engineering-rcwl-0516-microwave-proximity-detector-module/298590#298590 and https://github.com/jdesbonnet/RCWL-0516/issues/18 which seems to work OK.)

Still, even in that case (100 WS2812 LEDs), I can trigger a false motion detection event if I turn on all the LEDs at “too high” a brightness, which was puzzling. I had another ~100uF capacitor on the output of that small regulator and looking with my oscilloscope, I don’t see really that much noise or sag on the power supply. Grasping at straws… does the current spike going to the lamps in the wires nearby induce some energy in the RCWL-0516 module somewhere? I’m not sure.

There’s some good information on this motion sensor here https://github.com/jdesbonnet/RCWL-0516/issues that you can refer to. In particular, you might review the False triggers thread in that GitHub issues page for some ideas. I’d like to try the pi-network LC filter, but in my latest application, I don’t think I have space available…

I have a Wi-Fi “night light” that digiblurDIY did a YouTube video about and I added in a PIR as he described, a BME280 temp/humidity/barometer sensor and a RCWL glued to the side. Not much more room in there… I ended up encapsulating the RCWL-0516 inside some white heatshrink tubing and hot-glued it to the side of the light module.

That white rectangular thing in the photo between the lamp cover and the module is the RCWL device:

and sort of put together now, with the BME280 module glued in side, with the sensor positioned behind a small hole drilled in the case. This seems to mostly work for barometric pressure and humidity, but the temperature reading is off because of heating from the ESP8266 nearby. Still, this may suffice for measuring the humidity in the bathroom to try to determine if the shower is running. Also, the PIR sensor is mounted on the lamp diffuser and works quite well.

Here is is plugged in:

The RCWL-0516 sensor is very sensitive. If I move around in the room that’s on the floor directly below where the sensor is installed, it will trigger. When I move the sensor into another room, further away from the Wi-Fi access point, I get many more false motion detection events from the RCWL device, possibly because the Wi-FI transmitter power is running higher? I’ve not tried to confirm that, and not sure I know how… Unfortunately, I don’t have much time to spend on this right now.

The other application in my “Ping Pong Ball” lamp seems to work pretty well, with the exception of when I suddenly turn up the brightness. I don’t do this very frequently, so just live with it.

This is the application where the RCWL-0516 is running from a different 3.3V power supply regulator. I’m convinced that the quality of the power is a major (most significant?) contributor to eliminating some false motion detection; not sure if that’s the only thing. Maybe running it off a small battery would be a useful test? Or maybe putting my scope on it, and triggering on the motion detection output to really see what the power supply to the module was doing.