Anyone here who can help me. My Eurotronics spirit Z-Wave jumps into “InS” after a period of time. Then I need to pull out the batt. and it start calibrating again
I have the same problem and it seems to get worse, when the battery level gets lower. I have bought new batteries today and want to see how it will work now. But actually I have no idea…
Correct. It is getting worse when batt level gets down. Pls keep me informed.
No suc6 with new batt. for me
Having same problem here… I have bought 6 to install, but the first 2 I’ve tried are suffering the same issue as yours. The problem is made worse as the INS screen also turns on the backlight, so they are also burning through the battery much quicker.
Hi, I have the same problem. After disappointed about the Popp thermostat I thought Spirit would be a good solution. The installation process is much better then Popp so I was happy at that moment. But currently I have the same issue that I find my device in “INS” status and do not communicate anymore. I have two of them and it looks like it is indeed related to turn off/on the radiator when I read also the previous posts. Sometimes I find it is in the close status and sometime in the open status. My current workaround is to reinsert the battery and start the “INS” process, it is then working again for a while (view days to a week).
Is there an design fault or firmware fault? All my other Z-Wave and Zigbee devices do not suffer from this, hereby I must say that no battery device are needing much power to opperate. But I realize also that opening and closing a valve will cost a lot of energy. When the battery is not full loaded the voltage drop will also be more and off course will be also much lower. This can be compensated by adding capacitors in parallel to the battery to add extra buffer for peaks current to prevent voltage drop which is certainly needed when operating the valve. I have not opened the device and do not know if the capacitors are added. Because the device is directly turned off when removing a battery I expect that this is not implemented, it should have the capacity to run at least one open/close action before it is exhausted.
Is someone already experimenting with possible solutions?
I didn’t have a single problem since I have started using really good batteries (Energizer Ultimate Lithium).
Just measured the voltage drop when valve is changing. Battery was in idle 2.90V and the lowest level was 2.84V I don’t think that this voltage drop is the cause, but what is it then the root cause…
I changed mine to zigbee devices instead of zwave
You have swapped them for Zigbee, for how long are they now running and there is no issue at all since installation?
I think the problem is just with Z-Wave version and it’s an hw problem
Also Aeotec TRV have same issue…same procuder but different firmware.
Since end december and no issues
I had 2 Eurotronic TRV. Just one of them had the “InS issue”. The other worked fine for months.
Considering also that Aeotec and Eurotronic TRV are identically and had same issue using different firmware, I think this is an hardware problem on some of them.
Months ago I wrote to Eurotronic about this with no luck…no answer to my support request
I’ve 20 years old Hertz valves so i need adapter to mount the termostate. In one of my 4 Eurotronic thermostates I found a INS problem, but when I reinstaled it to different radiator, without adapter, problem not occure.
It’s look like hardware cause, on Erurotronic or on valve…
I tried 2 of my TRVs in 2 different houses…in the first using adapters, in the second without adapters.
One of them had always the InS issue
I have 5 radiators, all with Herz adapters. For 2 months, all Spirit thermostats worked perfectly. Then shortly, one after another, 3 thermostats started experiencing INS issue. So I don’t think it is related to adapters.
I’ve returned all of them. Thankfully it is practically spring so I have plenty of time to find decent replacement.
Same here, any idea as of why?
I fitted mine to a different radiator and within an hour it says INS.
A) Is the TRV body I fitted stiffer. I though before this TRV was suspect.
B) During the swap, the pressure piece came out. It has 3 “wings” that stop it spinning in the body, and then I find it was not in the slots. So is this damaged pressure piece (and I removed it to see the wings are almost gone) slipping around during higher pressure push on the TRV and all the alignment is coming undone… hence the TRV says INS as I need reinstallating.
I am thinking B, combined with a stiff TRV body. Its currently back on a Drayton TRV4 body like it was before, So far so good.
All in all, I am suspecting its crappy cheap TRV body causing issues on the Spriitz.