On close inspection there is a pic of it running Home Assistant, cool
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Trying to work out how to do weather without the standard widget which needs Dark Sky which is no longer
Wait for Prime day and buy a Fire tablet on sale! Then never activate it and install the Google Play Store APKs and FullyKiosk.
This is my entrance dashboard on Fire 7 Tablet in a mount that was 3D printed. The USB power cable goes into the wall and down into the basement to power it.
The dashboard is AppDaemon with some custom (not prime time ready) widgets I created merging features from multiple widgets.
you can also activate it and not install google playstore.
just installing the fully apk will do.
PM me or come to the appdaemon discord server (because its to much off topic) and i can give you tips for a lot of different weather widgets
Sure, you can, I had no reason to do that and I even block the tablets from getting to the internet.
All external images used by HA and the Dashboard are proxied so that the tablets do not need internet.
My privacy is important to me. One of the reasons I love HA and I make every effort to avoid cloud services when possible. Some are unavoidable. 
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Firetablets are not available in Australia
@ronytomen , I have a few questions: what power supply/charge do you use? what length of wires you’ve got to power the tablet? I have pretty same setup but FullyKiosk drains the battery faster then phone changes… ((
that happens when a phone/tablet is older.
the battery is not as good as it used to be and takes longer to load, and loading is done with lower power, so it takes longer.
i got a samsung tablet that has the same problem.
the solution?
screenbrightness lower.
i use screenbrightness at 160 and then the tablet loads faster then the amount that is used.
and make sure you got dashboards that are not mostly bright. (black background insted of white background)
Thanks Rene,
I tried another samsung (4yo) which is good in charging and so on. but being plugged to this usb it recharges much slower even I use IPAD’ charger on the other end of wires. the Ampere app shows only 500 mA while charging. but normally it demonstrates 1500 mA. So the only difference is the wires… I used free wires from my alarm system, fresh. And yes I use black background.
it sounds like you got an old charger, which only charges at a max from 500 mah.
and indeed also wires can make that a good charger doesnt use max possibilities.
so you need to make sure you got good chargers and wires, when you want to load at a higher speed.
I’m using a Amazon Fire 7 Tablet with the supplied charger. I have a larger gauge 15ft USB extension cable that can at least support the chargers capacity.
Agreed!
Bugger! That sucks… I find the Fire tablets a cheap option if you know how to not activate them but get them running the software you want. I think any android tablet is probably a good option if it can support the app you want to use for the dashboard display (I use FullyKiosk).
checked the current with 4 different devices: 3 phones and a usb-lamp. If charging on short wires gives 1.3A then the same device on the wires running through the wall - 0.1A only!!! fu6k… this is a new building, 10meters long wires… And yes, the battery on that samsung phone is not good neither; and found my old Ipad charger gives 0.5A only. all together
It was a long time ago now but I thought I read somewhere that Fire Tablets were not great at running Lovelace. Is that no longer (or am I mistaken and it was never) the case?
Also can you give some pointers about
Either here or a link to somewhere else.
Thanks
lovelace wasnt designed for wallpanels.
HAdashboard is. (and thats what this topic is about 
)
a link would be google and then “install google play store on firetablet”
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I use FullyKiosk with AppDeamon’s HADashboard. FullyKiosk is worth purchasing and has Fire Tablet specific APK to install.
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Can you replace the wire, something is really night right there.
I hope I can replace the wires. But first I want to test it. I understand the “Alarm Cable 6x0.22” (10 meters) is not good for this purpose. the “diy PoE” (with 5volts of poe injector) seems works well on UTP Cat5e or Cat6. I suppose it should be ok this.
What I do not really understand is the wire material: copper seems the best but there is something like CCA which is not really copper but rather a copper layer on wires. Any recommendations to select a cable? Thanks!