That is a very nice jig!
Haven’t read it all, but this seems to be the same thing?
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33000423688.html
Thats a zigbee one. I have 2 of those and they work really well with Conbee/Phoscon
Hi All,
i have one Sonoff Mini Switch flashed without problems with ESPHome and using the pads and FTDI device. The only trick that is needed when powering up, is to press the button to enter in boot mode.
But now, I’m trying to set it up using ESPHome and I’m struggling to get the GPIO numbers of the relays and external switch.
Anyone has figure out what are the GPIO numbers for the different components in the board?
Status LED, Relay and external switch?
Many thanks!
Regards,
Hi All,
i will reply myself.
The pinout of the Sonoff Mini is the following:
GPIO0 = Button
GPIO4 = External Switch
GPIO12 = Relay
Regards,
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I can confirm that it doesn’t need cloud setup in DIY mode.
The setup is not very easy, you need to create the sonoffDiy network which the device then attaches to. So you create a hotspot either using a phone, PC or wireless router.
If anyone is interested in using an HA custom component that connected to the stock firmware (no flashing), I have one here https://github.com/mattsaxon/sonoff-lan-mode-homeassistant
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DrZzs made a video about this device, showing how to flash it OTA as well.
Home Assistant automatic discovery is not working for this device, right?
I typed in the console "SetOption19 1 " but nothing appears on the system,
I had mine autodiscovered with setoption19 1
Apologies if this was answered - I read through the replies, but didn’t see it.
Has it been confirmed that the external switch (GPIO4-Ground) is separated from mains?
So if you put ESPHome or Tasmota on it you can use the external switch without concern of high voltage?
I believe the answer is yes - it is separate (not on main voltage) but wanted to make sure I didn’t miss something.
Again, if this was already answered I missed it 
.
And if this was implied by some of the discussion, I’m still learning and probably didn’t understand 
Thanks!
DeadEnd
Follow up question - I found a posting about two “extra pads”. They appear to be labeled “KEY_IN” and “LOG”. Following the traces (just learning so I could be wrong) they appear to be connected to pins 14 and 15 - and if I am reading correctly the description correctly, this should be GPIO2 and GPIO0 respectively.
Are these usable - or reserved? I understand both are typically not used because they is used for boot mode selection - so is there a reason they would be broke out on the board? Consider this a learning moment for someone who is still new - thanks!
Last question - in ESPHome for the Sonoff Mini they have a GPIO17 listed as an optional sensor. Reading more I understand this is an Analog to Digital Converter. From the pictures of the board though this is not broken out correct? So you would have to solder directly to the pin on the ESP board?
With that in mind, would you also be able to use GPIO 5, 9, 10, and 14 if you were willing to solder directly to the ESP chip? If I am seeing the traces correctly, all of these are not broken out but could be solder to directly. (GPIO 9 and 10 are available on ESP8285 from what I understand).
Apologies for the wall of questions - I am still learning and wanting to see if I understand this correctly.
Thanks all!
DeadEnd
NETRUAL ? I’ve never ever seen a light switch that has a netrual connection in it.
Domestic switches simply switch live to the bulb. Why do all these switches require netrual? Dimmer switches dont require it, and they have electronics in them.
Sadly in the past electricians didn’t think switches would ever require a neutral. It is building code in many areas now to run neutral to switch boxes.
Dimmers are effectively using the light bulb as a return, always passing a small current through. A dimmer also is just a chopper, knocking part of the A/C wave off to lower the voltage. As such it turns on and off with each wave, only needing to be active when the bulb is being fed.
A device like a Sonoff must run continuously to run the processor, maintain the WiFi connection, etc. So it either needs to pass a current through the bulb, or have a neutral.
Problem with passing current through the bulb is that it doesn’t work well with LED bulbs because they require such low currents. So you end up with flickering. And when the bulb is turned on, that current path goes away so the “neutral” disappears. Fine for a dimmer in series, but would deprive the processor in a Sonoff of power.
Unless you do some tricks like interrupting the power to the load every few mS to charge a capacitor to power the processor. Which incidentally is what the “no neutral” smart switches do.
Hi, I’m using Touch switches which uses Gateway and the gateway connects to wifi router and can be operated via ios app and also manual touch. It has no compatibility with Alexa or Google voice. If I use Sonoff Mini with this touch switch (without using Gateway) is it possible to make it Alexa compatible swifch.
Shashi
Hay Bro dont come to new zealand all our lights switch in wall have netrual in them LOL
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Yes - it seems some countries do. When a normal switch is used, what is natural connected to?
In the uk we have 3 conductors, live into switch, switched live out of the switch to the lamp, and earth.