Legend! That works. Any idea on sending the temp setting to the kettle?
Glad to hear it worked.
I don’t use the ‘keep warm’ settings. But I have a copy of my old settings that do work.
Input select
set_kettle:
options:
- 'Keepwarm off :102,0'
- 'Keepwarm 40c :102,1'
- 'Keepwarm 50c :102,2'
- 'Keepwarm 60c :102,3'
- 'Keepwarm 80c :102,4'
- 'Keepwarm 90c :102,5'
Automation
- id: '4444'
alias: Kettle - Set Temp
description: ''
trigger:
- entity_id: input_select.set_kettle
platform: state
condition: []
action:
- service: mqtt.publish
data_template:
topic: cmnd/Kettle/TuyaSend4
payload: '{% set dta = trigger.to_state.state %} {{dta.split('':'')[1]}}
'
mode: single
If you cannot tell maybe play around with 102 (try 12 or 15) and TuyaSend4 to see if you can work out which one works.
Good luck.
BTW - I have these set up for over a year and so cannot credit the original poster, or remember what I did to configure them to my own settings. Sorry for not crediting someone if I should be.
Dave
If I set the temp to keep warm on the kettle there is a corresponding RESULT in the console.
On the attached image you can see the RESULT when I set the kettle to Keep warm 60 (setting 3) and then 80 (setting 4).
You can also see that this is results in the sequence DpType4Id102":3,"102"
Which I think corresponds to the variables:
DpType4 = TuyaSend4
Id102":3 = 102,3
(and then also Id102":4 for 80c)
If you set the keep warm temp on your kettle, and then look in the Tasmota console this should give the commands you need.
I didn’t have much luck trying to capture the console messages for each button. I’m not really worried about it to be honest but I will probably try to figure it out at some point just so the config is complete.
Cheers for your help
1 Like
Hi @sparkydave,
I just opened mine up last night - found the WR1 chip - and then found this post.
I had some luck controlling the kettle via LocalTuya, and this is what i was able to determine in terms of DP mappings:
1 - Power [true/false]
2 - Temperature Sensor [0 to 100]
8 - Target Temperature [0 to 100]
13 - Keep Warm function [true/false]
14 - Keep Warm Time (Mins) - [0-360]
15 - Status
16 - Boil mode [temp_setting/boiling_quick] (i.e. temp_setting = normal mode, boiling_quick = boil, then cool to target temperature)
I’m sure i had some more detail on the other DPs… but for the life of me I can’t find my notes.
Do you have any details about how you approached the WR1 → ESP chip replacement (I.e. what wires had to be shorted)?
1 Like
Thanks for the DP mappings. Any idea what payloads need to be sent for the function controls?
For the chip swap I simply wired the ESP12F to my USB-UART:
RX-TX
TX-RX
Vcc-3.3V
GND-GND
then on the chip:
GPIO15-GND
GPIO0-GND
EN-Vcc
Once I loaded Tasmota onto the ESP I removed the GPIO-GND connection and left the EN and GPIO15 connections. I wired the TX and RX of the ESP to the same points that the WR1 had it’s TX and RX on the PCB. Since the pinout is not the same (nor the same size chip) as the WR1 I simply used short wires between the chip and PCB. It wasn’t pretty so I dind’t take any photos. I wrapped a bit of plastic around the ESP so it couldn’t short out on anything as the whole thing was reassembled.
Not 100% sure on the DP16 modes - On the original tuya chip, you sent a strin, but i’m guessing it got mapped to an enumeration. Still trying to reverse engineer it. So far have temp control + keep warm. That boil mode is the last main part of the puzzle. Also trying to figure out what DP15 and the other ones mean.
Thanks for the tips re the wiring - i had mine all ready to go, but missed the EN-VCC and the GPIO15-GND connections. After i re-read your post and fixed it it all went smoothly.
Those WR1 addon boards are just VCC, GND, TX and RX connections to the main PCB.
You can easily replace them with a NodeMCU, Wemos D1 mini or ESP-15F board without any soldering. Perhaps just some wire cutting and twisting to attach dupont cables.
Have you gotten any of these to actually display anything?
Only ones I ever get working are Power and Temperature (which should be 5)
mine was early enough to have a TYWE3S in it, but yes - my notes here if it helps: Kogan Smart Glass Kettle 1.7L and Tasmota – zorruno.com
2 Likes
Before you gone down the transplant path…
It might be worth looking if you can flash it. There was an alternate for the WB chips, although I am not seeing wr listed.
I thought this was working on wb chips also
It’s sort of dug out of this post…
I’m not sure the esp-15f will work as it’s a 5v operating voltage whereas the wr1 is 3.3v?
Thank you - I’m mostly committed to swapping it out as much for learning as anything else
No ESP is operating at 5V, you’re confusing the fact that the ESP-15 can be powered with 5v due to a built in voltage regulator
You can use a D1 or NodeMCU or basically any other module or development board
1 Like
I deleted this because I think I got the connections wrong so as not to confuse anyone else.
I tried that, and it didn’t seem to work, looking around at what people do with switches I ended up with something else that didn’t work either… Looking for a little guidance.
Just wanted to share my tasmota rule for sending the temp to HA.
Paste the rule into the tasmota console, then rule3 1 to enable the rule.
rule3 on tuyareceived#dptype2id5 do publish %topic%/temp %value% endon
rule3 1
Then in your home assistant config.yaml
sensor:
unique_id: kettle.temp
name: kettle_temp
state_topic: "kettle/temp"
unit_of_measurement: '℃'
You can do it like this to get it to show up in tasmota integration. You will need to exchange the mac address.
# rule1 ON TuyaReceived#DpType2Id5 DO backlog var1 %value%; Publish2 tasmota/discovery/ECFABC7AD1D2/sensors {"sn":{"Time":"%TIMESTAMP%","Kettle":{"Temperature":%value%},"TempUnit":"C"},"ver":1} ENDON
# rule2 ON TuyaReceived#DpType2Id5 DO backlog var1 %value%; Publish2 tele/kettle/SENSOR {"Time":"%TIMESTAMP%","Kettle":{"Temperature":%value%},"TempUnit":"C"} ENDON
#
# mqtt config > Topic = kettle
@sparkydave would you mind sharing how you did this? I have the exact same kettle and I just destroyed the WR1 modle while trying libretiny
Thanks
Sure. After struggling for ages to get the base station apart (it requires releasing a heap of separate tabs all at once) you get to a main circuit board which has the WR1 soldered to it. You need to carefully de-solder the WR1 from the main board and then use small wires to patch the required pins to those of the ESP12F since they aren’t the same physical size / pinout. Unfortunately I don’t think I took any photos of it during the process but I’ll have a look through my phone to see if there are any.
Before soldering the ESP12F into place however it’s best to flash Tasmota to it so it’s ready to go once installed.
Found 2 photos…
Unfortunately I don’t have a photo of the final product