Did you do the fix prior? I had and it was working.
There’s a caveat at the end of the fix that whenever the “fix” gets applied to HA, to remove the config/pymyq folder and restart. I have not done that nor do I know if I need to yet.
I am pretty much confused by the multitude of proposed solutions. None of the SSH fixes work for me and I hesitate to go the Homebridge route, because every time I use Homebridge I get constant sign-on messages from Apple, and that is just too annoying.
I am no longer posting on the Github channel because I have nothing intelligent to add.
Two days ago the Myq integration worked for less than a day and then went off again.
My simple question is whether the real cause has been identified (my best guess is that it is the MyQ cloud service itself) and if a solution is expected, without having to do something in SSH ?
This post goes back over 2 years for the same issue. You can fix this issue very simply by dumping that garbage and getting yourself a 5$ esp board with a relay. 100% local control, no third party api that constantly goes down, no internet required. It’s a very simple process and can be done in 10 minutes and most importantly, it works 100% of the time.
I’m still a relative noob at this stuff and already spending a lot of time on HA, which is fine, but these outages are frustrating. I realize the initial setup w/an ESP board and maintenance may be the most challenging part to this, but otherwise, I’m assuming their are tutorials for this on YT?
I set mine up 4 years ago and haven’t touched it since. You’d want to search on how to make a relay. Or you can just buy a relay that works with zigbee or zwave. The hardest part is getting the relay to work with your garage door. Most of these new garage doors have encrypted signals, so you can’t just hook the relay up to the garage. I ended up buying an additional hardwired garage door opener, soldering 2 wires to the button, then connected those wires to the relay. It may sound hard, but it really wasn’t. It does require a soldering gun and some want/need to move away from Mycrap, I mean MyQ.
You do lose the ability to know if the garage door is open or closed, but that can be solved with a tilt sensor or magnetic sensor. Again, something you can build w/ esp devices or buy straight from a store. I bough a wired one for $20 that connected to my relay. So it’s all in the same device.
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Ratgdo solves all of these issues.
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Never heard of it, looks nice.
I’m going to look into Ratgdo.
In the meantime, this worked for me:
cd config
wget https://github.com/Lash-L/pymyq/archive/refs/heads/useragent_fix.zip
unzip useragent_fix.zip
mv pymyq-useragent_fix/pymyq .
rm -fr useragent_fix.zip pymyq-useragent_fix
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There’s basically no maintenance. As Petro said you will lose the open close state data BUT you can easily get this back with a couple reed switches which are the same things you see on doors or windows as part of a security system. One side is wired to a sensor and will be stationary while the other half is just a magnet and it’s free to move up and down with the door. when the magnet and sensor are within a small distance the sensor turns on and when they are seperated the sensor is off or OPEN/CLOSED These things are really cheap too. I installed mine 3ish years ago and it just sits there and does it’s thing without causing me any headaches. diy esphome garage door opener - Google Search
Here’s a pre-made unit that one of the members of the community makes and sells. Personally I would get a second sensor though, one for the bottom(fully closed sensor) and one for the top(fully open sensor). You can do it with 1 but you have more options with a second one. This method works with like 90% of garage doors but there are some newer ones that i’ve heard this wont work with. If you follow the wires from your wall switch to the back of the motor and it has wire terminals on the back for the switch, you should be good to go.
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and this wont effect your wall button, this wont effect your car remotes. The relay sits in parallel with the wall switch and it works basically like a three way switch on a staircase. A switch at the top and one at the bottom. Either switch can control the device independently without effecting the other one.
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in my experience those aren’t very common unless you have a newer model and paid for the “higher end” model. People have overcome that issue but i believe it’s a “take things apart and heat up the soldering iron” kind of hack… That’s not for everyone obviously but its out there.
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When applying the original series of command line entries (using Advanced SSH & Terminal) on Saturday it would not until I modified the command to match the Python version installed in my system (Python3.9.9) Not sure if the “zip” fixes are configured to handle instances other than those running Python3.11.
Check Python version in HA (Settings > System > System Health)
Here are the details of what I had to do to get the empty/blank user_agent parameter replaced.
I also had it worked and it broke after upgrading core/supervisor, however mine did start working again after re-applying the fix and resetting. Might be worth trying again.
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Do we know when an update will be pushed to fix this?
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This Dockerfile will work for anyone who can use a custom container…
FROM ghcr.io/home-assistant/home-assistant:2023.9.2
RUN sed -i 's/self._useragent = None/self._useragent = str("myq-ios-5.240.0.38162")/' /usr/local/lib/python3.11/site-packages/pymyq/request.py
I dont really understand this comment at all. no soldering is required. Every chamberlain opener sold in the last 10 years is security + 2.0 and uses encrypted serial communication, no matter which model you bought. There is no soldering or hacking or anything of the sort, you wire it to the GDO terminals the same way you wire the wall control panel, and in return you get full control over the door and live status updates for door state, light state and obstruction status. It also doesn’t interfere or replace any of control panels or wireless remotes.
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try to follow along bud. We were talking about using an esp board and relay wired in parallel with the wall switch. Some newer models use rolling codes and you cant use that method to make them smart.
Sorry, you replied to me so I thought you were talking about ratgdo.
well this post had been dead and then we started talking about using an esp because MyQ was crapping out again. I may have misunderstood what you were commenting on, i’m not sure. It’s all good, have a nice day.
Sigh…tried both of the fixes above and restarted each time. Still no dice.
This shouldn’t be so complicated.