Its a pain to do with these devices, both are outside with one hanging off the front of my garage, and the other off the side of my house. reincluding them might involve a ladder and it is currently 21f outside here in Ohio. 
Any update to this? I am considering buying one of these if there is a smooth integration to HA.
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Also curious about an update. For those that have one, would you give it a thumbs up? Does it have good range?
I ended up going with a traditional sensor wired to a zwave relay. When the sensor trips the relay sense it and turns on the light. So far this is working okay, however an actual purposefully built device was more what I wanted.
I’m interested in this too. Do you have a link for the zwave relay you used?
I am using the Vision ZL7432 dual relay. I shorted the relay outputs together so that either relay can turn on the lights. It has 2 inputs. One input I have connected to the motion sensor, so when it is triggered the relay kicks on. The other input is not used. I trigger the second relay from HA. This way I can control the lights manually and the setup can also operate as it would normally without manual/HA control.
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zl-7432us-in-wall-switch-2-relay
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Edit to add a TL;DR: The HomeSeer HS-FLS100+ seems to work fine. Use “burglar” value (8 motion, 0 no-motion). If you want to change any of the configuration settings, you’ll have to do some manual tweaking to your zwcfg file.
Got mine up today, Aeotec Z-Wave Z-stick network found it just fine (including being too far away so it connects via other devices).
The stock Home Assistant OpenZWave found all of the sensors and switches I believe, but it did not pull in any of the configuration settings. I created them manually, though they are almost identical to the ones posted above. You can back up your zwcfg file, edit it and for this device, replace CommandClass id=“112” block with the one above and you should be fine. I just confirmed that I was able to set the timeout period and set it to turn on even if the lux sensor is high, and then turn it back to normal again.
That said, I haven’t actually verified the range of the sensor yet, and probably will not be able to due to my setup. It’s looking at a relatively narrow area and seems to detect well for that.
I do have the same issues as the ms100 has in regards to issues with too many unused indications. I don’t know how the OZW database works, but this device didn’t even appear in the official database, so I’m not sure where the autoconfig comes from to recommend changes.
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Good guys, I also look for a solution like that. What I edited thinking about doing was take my motion sensor and make it “smart” with a shelly 1. That is, the sensor detects motion and activates the shelly which in turn would change the state to on in HA. Then just create automations with this state of shelly. Is it viable? Has anyone tried something identical?
If you want to interface to an existing motion sensor you can use these. They basically add Z-Wave to the motion sensor
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@sparkydave Thanks for the suggestion but I still don’t use z-wave. I had a preference for Wi-Fi or zigbee. Are there alternatives? Thank you very much for your attention.
For the low cost of a Aeotec Z-Stick, why not add Z-Wave to your system?
If you really want to go with wifi then I would suggest putting a Wemos D1 Mini into the PIR and wiring to a digital input on that. Program the D1 Mini with ESPhome and you are set. The issue is that you will have to provide a 5V supply, which you can get from the (asuming 12V) PIR power using a step-down power supply… but more bits to fit in the PIR and more effort than just addin Z-Wave…
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@sparkydave I was thinking something like this. As I have an outdoor focus I could use this toturial to be able to control other outdoor lights.
So are you referring to a motion sensor that is part of a light fitting?
Yes. Because I didn’t want to be implementing more z-wave technologies and at the same time taking advantage of this sensor. I think this toturial will be a good solution.
Returned to report that I excluded/included these today while working on the side of the house and they now show up correctly. openzwave must have been updated since I created this post.
Love this thread. I ended up using my guardline system that I already had. The guardline motion sensors are wireless and have a 1/4 mile range and do really well in nasty weather. Its weird because it supports multiple sensors but only has one 12v relay out for accessories. I opened the hub and realized that it has an LED per zone. I measured the voltage on that LED when it was triggered and WALLA! - 2.7 volts - perfect for the D1Mini.
Using ESPHOME, I now have four zones that talk to HA. All my sensors are extremely far from my house. It works perfect.
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I was considering something similar.
Any chance you could post a more in-depth tutorial for accomplishing this with the Guardline (Assuming someone technically proficient, but not as familiar with ESPHOME/similar. )?
For ESPHOME the best thing I would recommend is watching DrZz videos. He has a ton of different things he does with ESPhome. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7G4tLa4Kt6A9e3hJ-HO8ng/videos
I got the idea by watching his video on his window opener. (I also made a chicken coop door doing the same thing) https://youtu.be/BjXUg_-tM84?t=195
When you understand ESPHome, you will understand the below code (called a sketch that you upload to the D1Mini)
esphome:
name: guardline_hub
platform: ESP8266
board: d1_mini
wifi:
ssid: ""
password: ""
# Enable logging
logger:
# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
password: ""
ota:
password: ""
binary_sensor:
- platform: gpio
pin: D0
name: "front_driveway_zone"
filters:
invert:
- platform: gpio
pin: D2
name: "chicken_coop_zone"
filters:
invert:
- platform: gpio
pin: D5
name: "shop_front_zone"
filters:
invert:
- platform: gpio
pin: D6
name: "shop_rear_zone"
filters:
invert:
I inverted my sensors to be on instead of off, but you can remove that part.
You can power the D1Mini and your guardline hub from the same power supply and then all you have to do is connect the positive side of each LED to a programmable pin to the D1Mini. In my sketch you can see what pins I am using. I probably need to update my sketch because sometimes the ESPHome repeats the trigger a couple of times when triggered.
The great thing about ESPHome, is after you do your initial setup using USB, you can update your ESP device over the air from that point on. I absolutely love it! I send updated sketches to my chicken coop door D1Mini all the time and its 200 meters away inside a large chicken coop. Its so awesome.
I hope this helps. I hope to do a video on it when I get better at this stuff.
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Thanks for sharing this!
I’ve been using the NC/NO contact on the Guardline receiver to trigger HA automations, but @specsix approach is way better; once I teach myself ESPHome LOL.
I know what I’m hacking this weekend! Thanks!
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Here’s my Guardline receiver (aka hub) LED-to-GPIO hack. Above is an old, re-purp’d raspberry pi v1 Model B:
Great idea @specsix !
Mine is the “500-ft range” version of the guardline receiver/sensors. Mounted the receiver up high for better signal reception.
Pictured: Zone 4 was triggered (LED illuminated)
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