@ PaulWieland great work on this and thanks for providing a way for other to purchase it. I’ve ordered one for my garage door.
I’m curious, do you know if there is going to be a way to sound the buzzer alarm when remotely closing the door like the standard MyQ process does before the door starts to close? If not, I wanted to add my own buzzer to the D1 and implement the process anytime the door is closing to sound the buzzer first, then close. I did this with an older garage door ESPHome setup so I’m hoping I’ll be smart enough to add this functionality if it doesn’t exist.
The reason I want to do this is that this controller will be at a remote location where people could be coming and going, so I want to have a warning sound when it starts to close.
Does anyone see any reason that this wouldn’t work with a LiftMaster LA400 gate controller? I’m pretty certain ratgdo can help me get rid of MyQ for my garage doors, but this gate has been the hardest problem to solve.
@techoguy There is hope, another dev has discovered that the time to close settings are sent to the GDO from a wall control panel that supports it. Time to close causes the GDO to beep. I ordered a wall control panel so I can experiment with the TTC and the other commands which my basic controller doesn’t have. Can’t promise a solution tomorrow but now I do think we’ll find a way to make it beep when closing.
It looks like the LM LA400 supports the Security+ wireless protocol, but not the wired protocol which is what Ratgdo is using. From the wiring diagram it seems this unit just supports simple contact closures.
Ahh. Ok. I previously had wired it up with a Konnected board and was able to open and close it using that hardware, but I didn’t have a way to determine the current state of the gate (open / closed) that way, without some kind of reed sensor or something. I tried doing it that way, but got flakey results on knowing whether the gate was open or closed. I was hoping I might be able to get that straight from the board this way.
If it uses the same protocol as the security + 1.0 gdos from the mid 90s until 2010s, then the status will be broadcast on the wireline. It’s just not encrypted.
I bought two. I had one setup working perfectly. Then I swapped out the D1 mini for another one with a new install on it. Is there something special I have to do?
The “Use rolling codes” option was unchecked by default on both installs so I left it like that and it was working in the initial setup. I figured I don’t need to follow those instructions about preserving rolling codes.
Looking at the ratgo wiring diagram, it looks like there’s three wires that would connect to the garage door opener, Red/Ctrl, Wht/GND, Blk/Obst. However, on my garage door opener, it appears there’s only wires going into the far right connection that is for the Blk/Obst. Is this an error the installer made when the garage door opener was installed? If not, how should the ratgo be wired in this case (leave the Wht/GND disconnected)?
If it doesn’t work then you need to get the last used rolling code from the original D1 mini (or just guess a higher number) and use the set then sync commands to get the new D1 mini to use that counter number.
Certain doors (depending on firmware revision) will not respond to repeated commands. Most of them have a logic board part number starting with 45
Ah okay, so I’m assuming they just wired the two protector systems (obstruction sensors) together in the wall somewhere because near the garage door edges (on the garage door rail), I can see a sensor on each side (two sensors total) which has a pair of wires that run into the wall. However, where the wires come out of the wall near the garage door opener, there’s only one pair of wires for the obstruction sensors and one pair of wires for the garage door opener.
However, what doesn’t make sense is it looks like the wall garage door opener controller is wired to the Red/Ctrl (red port) and Blk/Obst (gray port) on the garage door opener. My understanding is it should be wired to the Red/Ctrl (red port) and one of the Wht/GND (white ports). Here’s a slightly better photo.
Actually, now that I think of it, I’m guessing they just combined the ground wire for the two obstruction sensor and one wall controller into one wire which is plugged into the white port on the garage door opener.
That being said, I’m assuming I can just wire up the Ratgdo like this:
Use a 3-conductor Wago for the Red/Ctrl: one wire going to the Ratgdo, one wire to the wall controller and one wire to the garage door opener
Connect the Wht/GND from the Ratgdo directly to the empty white connector on the garage door opener
Use a 4-conductor Wago for the Blk/Obst: one wire going to the Ratgdo, one wire to the obstruction sensors and one wire to the garage door opener
This is a pretty frequent request. I have to confirm but I think these will be supported by a near future release which adds support for Security + 1.0 openers (the kind which doesn’t use encrypted rolling code and respond to shorting the wires but still communicate via serial over the wall control panel wiring).
I just got a Liftmast opener installed as part of an insurance claim after a water leak and I am interested in applying one of these so I can control with HA. I was wondering though what people options are about using MQTT vs ESPHome? Does one have an advantage over the other?
I have a strange feeling you’re going to see an uptick of orders soon as myq restrictions on their API make it less and less usable. Thanks for the work here.
I ordered a couple of backordered bare ratgdo shields a few days ago as well as a few ESP8266 D1 Wemo clones from Amazon which arrived today.
I have the CH340 windows driver installed, and device manager shows USB-SERIAL CH340 (COM7) when the ESP8266 is connected to the PC.
When I run the web installer, it shows the option: USB2.0! (COM7) - Paired which I select, but this results in the error: Failed to execute 'open' on 'SerialPort: Failed to open serial port.
SOLVED!
I had installed a newer CH340 driver that was the problem. Reinstalled from this source - and problem solved. Ugh, installing zip or exe’s direct from China is scary stuff. It would be a lot more reassuring if ESPHOME or RatGDO would host the vetted driver(s).
