The ul325 standard actually requires the beeping and flashing. Here are the requirements- they’re pretty specific about the flashing frequency, light intensity, etc for "unattended operation ".
Maybe Amazon Key gets out of this because the door closes with the delivery person present, so it is “attended” at that point.
Reading the FCC filing of the MyQ door sensor I determined that it uses 312.507Mhz. There is a white paper on jamming and capturing the signal to hack the MyQ system. While software defined radios get a bad rap as a hacker tool, I run rtl_433 on my Home Assistant for many practical reasons for monitoring. I was hoping I could tune it to 312.5M and see if I could at least pick up the door state from mqtt. Doesn’t look like I can do it so instead I’m going to use a Sonoff DW2 sensor on the door and couple that with automation with the eWeLink 1CH connected to the dry contact button as well as my camera motion taking a snapshot to create an automation. I created a cover template and that is displaying in Apple Carplay now.
Good riddance. Chamberlain’s devices were actually one of the reasons I dumped HomeKit for Home Assistant: because I had an older Chamberlain garage door, I had to buy from them two devices–a Chamberlain hub and a MyQ gateway (I may be forgetting what they called them). The combination never worked reliably. Their customer support was friendly and polite, but badly misinformed about their own hardware. I spent hours and hours on call after call following bad advice, only to end up with a partially-working solution as before. (I was new to home automation at the time, but I do remember them telling me–and me, like an idiot following–the suggestion that I had to leave the 5Ghz channel on my entire WiFi network always disabled!!) When I switched over to Home Assistant, it was a little better. But ultimately, I asked myself: why am I going through this much pain–and this many piles of devices translating for devices translating for devices–when all it needs is an ESP8266 and a switch that briefly shorts the two wires on the garage wall? I built my own and have never been happier. Sorry to vent, but I truly agree that what Chamberlain is doing is abusive of its customers and they deserve to lose them.
I went with Athom’s controller for my Genie SilentMax 1000 - wired into the physical wall button to get around SeriesII/BWC without the “special” dry contact adapter. I love the absolute instant responsiveness. I should have made this switch a long time ago. Almost grateful MyQ forced my hand on this one…but they can still piss off. They will never get another dime outta me!
Finally received my Ratgdo this evening. Downloaded the ESP firmware, added it to HA and wired it. Painless and user-friendly (at least for us techies). Worth every penny.
And for good measures, disconnected the opener from the WiFi.
If anyone is willing to do some soldering and has a spare remote and ESP, I’ve posted this little project that can be used to control the opener via ESPHome. It would be awesome if someone who has more electrical engineering knowledge then me can verify I’m doing it correctly!
For those of you (like me) closing your Myq accounts. Beware they send you an non informational “Needs Attention” email it seems like a confirmation email. You have to go to their Privacy Portal to read it. Note: You have to respond before 3 days or they won’t Close the Account. I assume they hope you will ignore the other emails.
Hello,
We have received your request to delete your information. Deleting your information will result in the closure of any accounts that you may have with us (e.g. myQ) as well as closing your Amazon Key program if you opted into that program. If you did intend to do this, please respond back to this message within three (3) calendar days to let us know you do wish to close your account.
If we do not hear from you within three (3) calendar days, we will not process your request. If you have any other questions, please let us know.
I went back to my Garadget that’s been in a box for a couple years. It now supports MQTT. No issues integrating with Home Assistant and everything is now local. Bye-bye MyQ.
So Far the two best options to get around this are:
ratgo (i just ordered two)
or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgebGcBuHxI
using tasmoda / esphome to control a wireless remote. Then using their own remote to control the device.
I ultimately went the ratgo route, as it’s less wiring and I like things neat, but I do worry that they’ll update the firmware to break it. (I super doubt they’d be able to do this though).
I have seen the request to contact the Chamberlain Group to voice our opinion about the decision to block the HA integration, but I think a better approach would be for HA to create a petition and get all members to sign it, whether they use the myQ integration or not.
I will probably use ratgdo as a temporary workaround, but I will not buy another Chamberlain product unless they reverse course on this decision. I only bought their product because it integrated so well with HA. Their decision is motivated by greed, not by customer satisfaction.
I’m not sure how effective the petition will be in this case, but I suppose it can’t make it worse.
I however, prefer to just not purchase any of the company’s products or any subscription services related to it. As consumers we vote with our wallets and that is the only thing these companies really understand.
I have an older LiftMaster LM80EVS opener from 2018 with an external MyQ internet gateway, and a simple dumb wired pushbutton bought from Amazon connected via two terminals on the opener itself, so I’m not sure I need the intelligence that a ratgdo brings, as you can literally short the wires and it opens/closes.
I also already have a Gogogate2 I installed a few years ago to try to improve Alexa/Google integration, before I started using HA. So I’m wondering if I can either add another universal WiFi opener like the Meross, or maybe add a Gogogate2 integration if there is one?