This is a common misconception. Breakers are installed to protect the wiring from not getting to hot/melting
Circuit breakers are not intended to protect appliances but circuits
That very much depends on the load profile, time and type of circuit breaker (mostly thermal and/or magnetic). But you can bet that - if you want to drip immediately - you need to have at least three times the rated current: in your case 60A
Yes, because it’s a fixed threshold set in stonesoftware - no question asked!
That’s what I said, just worded the way I did since I explained that power boards are used for surge protection aka to protect the devices connected through them.
NEVER, EVER connect anything pulling the “rated” load continuously. You are literally playing with fire. You should derate your plug by 75% to be safe. The rated power is only for short periods, like when a motor starts. Miniature relays typically have a specified current rating, like 16A, but this rating is often given for a certain duty cycle, not necessarily 100%. For example, a relay might be rated for 16A at 10% duty cycle, meaning it can handle 16A for short bursts but not continuously. The duty cycle ratings are in the relay manufacturer’s specifications, but the switch box makers don’t bother to tell the end user.
Well said. Circuit breakers and fuses protect the circuit upstream of the device.
The relay part number is SRD-05VDC-SL-C
Note the -C at the end. This is the form of the relay.
Now look at the specs from the relay manufacturer:
In the Form C column:
Resistive Load: 10A (1200 Watts)
Inductive Load: 3A (36 Watts)
A resistive load is things like incandescent lights.
Almost all appliances are inductive loads. (LED lamps are also inductive loads). Very few appliances are rated at less than 3A or 36 Watts. This is why I will never trust a switch box on my washer/dryer.
In my project the relays will control LED bulbs rated at 6 Watts (less than 1A).
I noticed electrical spikes only on two devices, oven and ac. When they are working on full load they use up to 10 amps maybe a bit more. All other devices are beyond that. I noticed electrical spikes that exceed 16 amps and that is why outlet cut off electricity. As I have electrical spikes on devices that are using a lot of load I presume that my circuit board doesnt have electrical surge protection.
Overall the best solution will probably be to replace circuit board.
As fire goes, if there wasnt fire while we used oven and dishwasher simultaneously then it very unlikely that there will be. Electrical wires are in brick wall that is thick so there is no material around them that can easily caught fire. But as always better be safe then sorry.
Thanks everyone on suggestions.
Thanks for the info, I am always interested in learning things like this even if I don’t do custom projects since I don’t have the gear for it atm.
It’s like with wet and dry modes on my T2, wet (with the linking wire it comes with is for majority of use cases) and dry is for uses with motors or other setups where you have pulsed power draw. At least that’s how they explain it on their product page.
And majority of the time when this happens because said wires became loose from the socket overtime (which is one reason I had an electrician check my sockets when I moved into my current place just to safety check them and replace them with newer sockets at the time).
Back then i had dumb outlet. Didnt have a clue how much current it was using, load, nothing. I replace it with zigbee outlet from bseed. It basicalky tuya device. Then i realized what is going on.
This applies to all electrical connections. Switches, outlets, junction boxes, etc. As wires draw current, they heat up a bit. This expands the diameter of the wire a few microns, then when off the wire shrinks. This micro motion eventually loosens the screw connector. The effect is cumulative and old, like 40-50years connections really need to be checked. The expansion/shrinkage is much worse with aluminum wires and becomes apparent after just a few years.
If a switch or outlet feels warm to the touch- get the wires checked immediately. If your smart switch is warm, you are probably drawing too much current through it.
Hello
I bought some time ago a Zigbee Smart Plug, a Nous A1Z that connects my home oven.
It’s two days that it gives strange readings in energy dashboard.
Energy values are positive and negative and it happens without using the owen.
Yesterday for some time readings weren’t available in the dashboard then all at sudden this strange behaviour
As you can see in this picture forny (my owen) has positive and negative energy measurements (bluebars) and as consequence I have consumption and production (grey bars) in a given hour
In this picture there is the energy value for this plug for two days.
The value raised as expected on 16 oct at 17:30 then on 17 oct at 3 am some little spikes started to appear in energy values and starting at 19.06 pm there are big spikes in energy consumpion. That is not normal because energy should always grow up
That negative usage is very strange I have not seen that happen with my setup even using the generic TS011F plugs as it all shows as it should atm for per device power tracking:
I’m tempted to swap it for another one that I have around my house. Is there some way to bind it and let home assistant recognize it as the previous one so statistics are maintained?
I didn’t create any helper…
I just added the plug to z2mqtt and used the energy sensor added to single devices consumption…
And by the way it was working fine for at least 3 weeks…
