Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

Hardware
222

Hi @sparkydave, just to confirm as long as the DIN rail mounted relays in the switchboard are correctly specified (suitable voltage and current ratings) and installed by a licensed electrician that is legal in Australia, the ELV driver side of the relays (I’m using 12v) doesn’t need special certification?

223

Correct. The legality there is then on physical separation of the LV and ELV wiring. The electrician should be able to arrange things for you such that it complies.

1 Like
224

Thanks, physical separation shouldn’t be too big a problem as I’m planning to use these DIN rail bases with a 10A DPDT relay to switch both active and neutral, the 12V coil terminals are at one end of the base and all the 240V connections are at the other end.

225

yep, that will be fine, however the wiring from your control device to those 12V relay coil terminals also needs to kept away from the 240V wiring inside the switchboard. All doable

226

Thanks @sparkydave

227

Kogan plugs with power monitoring even cheaper than usual

228

Thanks. I’ve been looking for a plug type version with power monitoring (currently using POW2s). Looks like I’m going to have to learn how to use Tuyaconvert.
Found the Tasmota device template: https://blakadder.github.io/templates/kogan_smarterhome.html

229

I used ESPhome. I can post the config if you want it. I feel it’s better than Tasmota but up to you

230

Yes, please, that would be very nice. I’ve just ordered a pack of the Kogan smart plugs and plan to flash them with ESPHome.

231

Yes please Dave.

232

A$$holes! :slight_smile: I just purchased another 4 pack earlier in the week for $79. $20 each is still a bargain for power sensing.

233

If you would like to use Tasmota after flashing using Tuya-Convert, here is the config I use;

234

@exxamalte and @tom_l here is my ESPhome code for the Kogan plugs. One thing to note is that there are two values that need to be adjusted to calibrate the voltage and current readings (and thus to give an accurate power value) which are the ‘current resistor’ and ‘voltage divider’ numbers (I have put comments next to them below)

esphome:
  name: kogan_plug_1
  platform: ESP8266
  board: esp8285

wifi:
  ssid: 'your_wifi_name'
  password: 'your_wifi_password'
  manual_ip:
    static_ip: your_desired_device_ip
    gateway: your_lan_gateway_ip
    subnet: 255.255.255.0

# Enable logging
logger:

# Enable Web Server (optional)
web_server:
  port: 80
  
# Enable Home Assistant API
api:

ota:

binary_sensor:
  - platform: gpio
    pin:
      number: GPIO0
      mode: INPUT_PULLUP
      inverted: true
    name: "Kogan Plug 1 Power Button"
    on_press:
      - switch.toggle: relay

  - platform: status
    name: "Kogan Plug 1 Status"

switch:
  - platform: gpio
    id: green_led
    pin:
      number: GPIO13
      inverted: true
    restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF

  - platform: gpio
    name: "Kogan Plug 1"
    pin: GPIO14
    id: relay
    icon: mdi:television
    restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF

sensor:
  - platform: hlw8012
    sel_pin:
      number: GPIO12
      inverted: true
    cf_pin: GPIO04
    cf1_pin: GPIO05
    current:
      name: "Kogan Plug 1 Current"
      unit_of_measurement: A
    voltage:
      name: "Kogan Plug 1 Voltage"
      unit_of_measurement: V
    power:
      id: kogan_plug_1_wattage
      name: "Kogan Plug 1 Power"
      unit_of_measurement: W
    current_resistor: "0.00087"   ### HIGHER VALUE GIVES LOWER WATTAGE
    voltage_divider: "2030"   ### LOWER VALUE GIVES LOWER VOLTAGE
    change_mode_every: 8
    update_interval: 5s
    
  - platform: total_daily_energy
    name: "Kogan Plug 1 Daily Energy"
    power_id: kogan_plug_1_wattage
    filters:
      - multiply: 0.001
    unit_of_measurement: kWh

time:
  - platform: homeassistant
    id: homeassistant_time
6 Likes
235

Jeez, they have the 4 pack of bulbs on sale as well. I’d love to know the config to get these to work after flashing with Tuya-Convert, using MQTT

236

Thanks heaps Dave. I have a mulitmeter and 3x 60W incandescent lights so the calibration should be easy.

237

Received another batch of the Kogan smart plugs this morning and flashed them with tuya-convert no problem, just don’t connect them to the Tuya app as they’ll update the stock firmware which stops tuya-convert from working.

1 Like
238

Thanks for the warning. Mine should be arriving Tomorrow.

239

I just found another Aussie site yesterday which has a few cheap(er) z-wave items. Still not the crazy cheap that they have in the US but not bad. Personally I prefer powered (ie: not battery) devices so that they also act as repeaters but if you don’t mind battery devices, they have some cheap(ish, for z-wave in Aus) motion / light sensors.

Also, zwave.com.au are having a sale at the moment…

I know z-wave is more expensive than most people would like but from my experience they are faster than wifi to respond to commands and my z-wave network has been rock solid so I’m pretty happy

1 Like
240

@sparkydave sounds like you have similar setup to me with aeotec nano zwave behind wall plate combined with clipsal saturn 4000. Did you use momentary mechs or toggle? The reason I ask is I have 2 of them with toggle switches that don’t work the way I want them too. If I turn the light off with zwave then I have to push the button twice to turn it on at the switch. Do you have this problem?

241

I ditched my Z-Wave stuff around 12mths ago and switched to using the OpenMQTTGateway with cheap RF stuff for the opposite reason to what you have said - I was getting sick of having a slow to respond Z-Wave network needing maintenance and healing, and found cheap RF stuff from Banggood and the like did a equal, or in many cases, superior job for a fraction of the price.

I’ve got about 10 RF motion sensors around the house with 9v batteries that last close to a year, and they cost $5 each. Far better than $50-$80 for Z-Wave stuff. Just my experience, however.

If you need wall switches, that’s a different story now I guess, I have WeMo wall switches, but you can’t get them any longer.