That looks like a 2 wire/no neutral type switch?
You can often place the Shelly (or similar) unit in the junction box at the light with some minimal rewiring inside the box (no new runs). It’s an often overlooked solution to no neutral at the switch.
But have no clue what AU code allows.
I’ve no idea.
Hey Mate, just bought the exact same fan and found your post, would love to buy one of those boards off you 
This post is awesome, although long. I did read recently a post that answered half of my problem, let me lay it out.
I am renovating under my house and I want to put in smart switches, I was having the issue not being sure of what switches to use. I wanted to use Shelly devices but was confused by what switches to use, but read a post back in August that you can use normal switches with Shelly’s, that is a relief.
The problem I have now is that I will also be installing some dimmable lights and again was looking at the Shelly Dimmer 2, the thing is I don’t understand what sort of switches to use in these instances.
Can anyone help me with what switches I can use in this case? Be mindful that there may be instances where a switch for a normal light and dimmer light may be on the same gang.
Thanks
I am using a momentary switch (push button) with that dimmer in a bathroom. Single push turns lights on or off, and hold-push dims. I have to admit that this is not very intuitive, and so the lights in this bathroom are primarily controlled by a motion sensor, and the automation just picks different brightnesses depending on the time of the night.
Have a look at a post I did previously. I use the Shelly dimmer 2 with a 3-position momentary switch. This works great for us and is intuitive in its use.
Hold up or down to change brightness. A single press in any direction toggles the light.
I am not sure whether this has been referred to here before
Thanks for the link, I wasn’t aware something like this existed.
I currently have a $10 momentary switch from Oz smart things for each of my dimmers.
The performance and operation is less than stellar.
Do the Clipsals mechs mount in non-clipsal wall plates or should I grab one while I’m ordering ?
I ask as even the single gang Clipsal pro architrave plate looks to be twice as long as my current Deta brand plate.
These seem great, how do they work with 2 way switches?
And do they work as simple switches as well? What I mean is I am worried about the WAF if something happens to HA?
Those mech’s have a tendency to bounce on operation which plays havoc with smart switches as they don’t tend to have great debouncing circuitry inbuilt.
They do…however generally the cutout where the actual toggle of button fit through is a slightly different shape so you can tell it isn’t fitting as nicely as it should.
Been looking at B22 Zigbee smart globes. I see there are a couple of starter kits available which come with two globes and a hub.
One is Mercator:
Another is Sengled:
These seem similar and available for not too much $.
Couple of questions:
Anyone using either? Issues?
If I get more than one kit can spare hubs be used as Zigbee repeaters? (Never used Zigbee before).
Thanks
That screenshot is awesome, thanks.
Can’t comment on either question but hue starter kits can often be had at the same price (in fact Amazon has them for $99 at the moment)
No. these are zigbee to ethernet gateways. Therefore their role is as a coordinator (hub) not routers (repeaters).
The Mercator kits are available for $30 and the Sengled for $49.
Anyway, I found a Mercator kit (hub + 2 globes) for $19, so have ordered that. I can at least try it and see for not a lot of $.
OK, thanks. What would/could I use as repeaters? I have a few outdoor power points (under very wide eaves) into which I can plug something.
Most mains powered devices are repeaters. Sengled lights are an exception to this.
As per Adam above… any mains powered device. Ikea sell a dedicated repeater but you may as well use a smart plug.
Probably good you’re trying Mercator… I just binned my Sengled bulb. Have had to repeatedly re-pair it. Couldn’t see how to update the firmware… but it was about 3 yrs old and maybe the newer bulbs are OK.
Are you sure you want to use a hub with third party software? Most people on HA seem to use a Conbee USB stick which works well with HA.
Nothing sure about it. I know little of the differences.
Either a Conbee 2 that people refer to often or I see Sonoff have one as well:
so because i had a bit of time up my sleeve, i decided to pull apart my Mercator SPP04G Wi-Fi and remove the Realtek chip. It appears these might be the same/similar to the offering from deta just with a higher price tag, no power monitoring and slightly different face plate
SPP04G-WIFI Quad Power Point | Ikuü (ikuu.com.au)
now these use the hlw8012 for power monitoring. its not a feature i would use at the moment but i am trying to figure it out when i have a bit more time. at the moment its commented out in my code.
## MERCATOR SPP04G-WIFI https://www.ikuu.com.au/?attachment_id=22698
## NOTE : WT-01N From wireless-tag MUST be transplanted for this to work, new units come with a BK Chip (UNRUCKY!)
## Compiled by Rodgrech - Vers 1.0
substitutions:
device_name: "SPP04G GPO1"
friendly_name: "SPP04G GPO1"
esphome:
name: spp04g-wifi-esp2
esp8266:
board: esp01_1m
# Enable logging
logger:
# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
encryption:
key: "<removed>"
ota:
password: "<removed>"
wifi:
ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
password: !secret wifi_password
# Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
ap:
ssid: "Spp04G-Wifi-Esp1"
password: "lolno"
captive_portal:
web_server:
port: 80
sensor:
- platform: uptime
name: ${device_name} Uptime
- platform: wifi_signal
name: ${device_name} Wifi Signal
update_interval: 60s
# - platform: hlw8012
# sel_pin: 5
# cf_pin: 14
# cf1_pin: 13
# current:
# name: "${device_name} Current"
# voltage:
# name: "${device_name} Voltage"
# power:
# name: "${device_name} Power"
# energy:
# name: "${device_name} Energy"
# update_interval: 60s
text_sensor:
- platform: version
name: ${device_name} ESPhome Version
- platform: wifi_info
ip_address:
name: ${device_name} IP
#################################
status_led:
pin:
number: GPIO05
inverted: false
binary_sensor:
- platform: gpio
pin:
number: GPIO04
inverted: True
id: button1
name: "${device_name} Button 1"
on_click:
- min_length: 300ms
max_length: 1000ms
then:
- switch.toggle: relay_template1
internal: True
- platform: gpio
pin:
number: GPIO12
inverted: True
id: button2
name: "${device_name} Button 2"
on_click:
- min_length: 300ms
max_length: 1000ms
then:
- switch.toggle: relay_template2
internal: True
switch:
- platform: gpio
pin: GPIO13
id: relay1
- platform: gpio
pin: GPIO14
id: relay2
- platform: template
name: ${device_name} Socket A
id: relay_template1
lambda: |-
if (id(relay1).state) {
return true;
} else {
return false;
}
turn_on_action:
- switch.turn_on: relay1
turn_off_action:
- switch.turn_off: relay1
- platform: template
name: ${device_name} Socket B
id: relay_template2
lambda: |-
if (id(relay2).state) {
return true;
} else {
return false;
}
turn_on_action:
- switch.turn_on: relay2
turn_off_action:
- switch.turn_off: relay2