Just take care as many of the motion sensors have an always on voltage and not a relay controlled output.
We purchased a couple of expensive mains based motion sensors from Voltex to use in this config and the Shelly 2 was seeing the input as always high.
Had to do a bit of funky wiring with a couple of spare SSR that i had (with AC switching input - not the more common DC) to get them to function correctly.
I do my stuff under NR so flashed the shellys to Tasmota and they work well now
One input goes to a manual momentary switch that can be used to set various modes by multiple presses etc, the other goes to the Motion sensor (via the SSR) and that then takes over in the evening to turn on external lighting etc in the event of motion.
Thanks all for your replies & the input. Yes, part of my concern is dying smart plugs on critical circuits (fridge, freezer) although these are all also 1 gang sockets so would be suitable for shelly to sit behind the wall, (in theory, never know what the builder did until you pull it out and see. Found some baffling circuit designs when he pulled out the light switches).
I don’t really need accuracy, but I do need to detect low power consumption on at least 2 appliances as I mostly want to track if they’re in use.
this clever retrofit isn’t far off from what I imagined, but distal to the GPO so the main switch isn’t obstructed.
the one area I’m thinking of in particular is a shallow bench in a butlers kitchenette (in a pantry) where anything other than a right angle plug into the socket stops the appliances from actually fitting because it pushes them forward too far.
TBH I don’t know that a shelly wired in line on an extension cord would be up to code anyway, so the question might be better for the electrician I’ve been using to see if they are even willing to do it. May just end up making more sense to swap the outlets in the areas I can’t use a smart plug to ones that have EM built in
I have several Telstra ZigBee smart switches which are great. And a skyconnect and ZigBee motion sensors including the original smarthings USB ZigBee repeater ones
If anyone interested I am in Melbourne and happy to give them away for cheap.
Hahaha, well it’s not getting used on a mine site or construction site, so no. I did however perform insulation resistance & earth continuity tests. Given that the parts (Z-Wave switch and plug / socket) are certified, it should be fine as is. It’s no different to me wiring up a contactor for a bore pump or something. ie: I have a licence.
Absolutely tops. Love that someone else has made a proof of concept. Good call on the glands, hadn’t thought that far ahead.
Sorta my reasoning here too. The parts are certed, guy doing the wiring is qualified… but I’m leaning away from this solution now anyway. It’ll be much neater and more practical to get another power point installed at the same time we sort out the cabinet lighting.
Plus I did a headcount of the circuits I want to monitor and realised they were all single plugs with the exception of the pantry. (Might still get one up for the garage though, be a good safety backup for power tools. If no power draw for an hour then switch off)
Working with my Electrician to install smart sensor light using a Shelly and all of the things I find on the internet say that only certain sensors work without modification. Does anyone know an off the shelf sensor that my electrician or I can source to “build” my outdoor sensor light?
Thanks
Edit: added that I am using a Shelly as the “switch”, sorry for missing this very important piece of information
I use a separate ZigBee motion sensor then either a smart ZigBee bulb (if you go that route electrician not required) or use an in wall or in ceiling switch (electrician required)
You can try this light via just your standard socket if its in range of your zigbee antenna or another zigbee device that acts as a mesh point in the network:
Hi, Has anyone managed to get Legrand Excel Smart switches talking directly to HA via zigbee, without going via their app? I have SkyConnect, change to channel 11, and it sees the switches, but does not configure and drops the connection. Many thanks, Dan
I am doing some renos and have ordered a few Shellys from SmartHome and I had also been researching how to control my two (2) remote controlled Fanaway fans and had seen the Bond Bridge Pro.
Got it today and after a moment or two with a small hiccup with the initial config I got it setup and connected to my network. Go through the process of getting it to recognise the buttons, took a few goes with some of the buttons, but got there. Added to HA and working wonderfully.
The only drawback is that there is no “feedback”, i.e. the light switch is a toggle, so you have to know the state of the light to know what it is going to do when you press the button. Otherwise very happy.
When I showed the wife the set up in HA, her first question was what about the fan in this other room? That fan is currently controlled with a wall switch, so happy to take suggestions. I know I can use a Shelly for the light switch, but not sure how to replace the fan speed dial on the wall.
Love this group, thanks everyone for your participation.
Is your switch a momentary push button (spring loaded) or is it a normal toggle up/down?
If it’s a toggle, then you can set the Shelly to change state on each toggle (“edge switch” as I’ve set in the screen shot below), or set it to follow the state of the toggle (“Toggle switch - flip switch”).
I did look at these when I did a google search, but I am not a fan of the look. However it may come down to this being my only option.
Also looking, there is no native Integration and from what I found the Wifi one’s use Tuya, so I can get away with using LocalTuya from what I understand.
