Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

OZ Smart Things sent me a list of things to try for my dead plug (all of which I had already been through) and a return form to complete and return with the plug. Options given are:

  • replacement
  • refund

Presumably they verify the item is faulty first before honouring their warranty.

I will request a replacement. What have I got to lose?

Probably mail it in tomorrow.

Anyone familiar with the Zigbee Triple Light Switch as sold by OzSmartThings ?

It is not practical or economic to install shelly units behind wall light sockets when renting … so I have some wi-fi bulbs, Arlec PC191 power sockets, and have started to standardise on zigbee for future purchases.

Seeing posts above about the zigbee power sockets prompted me to have another look at their website … where the Zigbee light switch got me thinking…

In the literal centre of my apartment (in the living room, just outside the two bedrooms and bathroom) is the kitchen light switch. It would be convenient place to position a multiple switch plate to activate the living room light(s) as well as the kitchen light.

Firstly I assume that connecting the wall light socket to only the kitchen light will operate the kitchen light as expected - but also power the other zigbee switches, which can use Home Assistant to operate my Living room wi-fi bulb ?

Coincidentally my landlord is an electrician - but not interested in home automation. I am thinking that these zigbee wall sockets (no neutral required) would be a 2 minute job for my landlord to swap over next time he visits. No new technology for him to learn, and device Certification is on the ozsmartthings website. I could even get them configured in ZHA before he arrives, so that they can be tested immediately after installation.

Is there any other consideration ?

Also, I guess my first question should be … are these units any good ?

Ordered one of these relay pucks from Oz Smartthings:

Will see how well I can make it work with the bathroom exhaust fan that is tied to the light via one live and one neutral connection in the wall at the switch side.

Was something I wanted to do for a while to automate that fan tied to my humidity sensor.

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Just a quick follow-up: I have indeed received a refund for the faulty TP-Link KP115 smart plug today.

  • I bought the KP115 smart plug in Oct 2022 from Amazon, and took it into operation straight away. It failed in Dec 2023 (relay clicks multiple times per second, no WiFi, no power). This smart plug came with a 2 year warranty.
  • First I was in a Live Chat with TP-Link support for about 15 minutes, going through some basic questions and trouble-shooting. Eventually they concluded that the device is faulty and cannot be repaired. I received a support ticket reference and was told I should ask the reseller for replacement.
  • Next I was in a Live Chat with Amazon for about 5 minutes, briefly described the problem and cited the TP-Link reference. They immediately offered a refund which I happily accepted.
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Wow, @exxamalte I am impressed … but how long did it take you to get to finally live chat with a human being who had authority to go off-script ?

For those on the never ending quest for a smart plug (with power monitoring)…

I would say Arlec Smart Plugs are decent contender in the “cheap” (and maybe nasty) category. You can flash them with ESPHome.

My notes are over on this thread.

Thanks for the pointer @donburch888

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For about 2 minutes I was chatting to a computer that was just sending me links to useless trouble-shooting pages. Then I saw the “Live Agent” option, and waited maybe 1-2 minutes until I had someone who took me through the process until I had a support ticket number about 15 minutes later.

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I installed one a year ago to replace a dead Shelly1.
I was disappointed to learn they are designed to work with a momentary push button and not a traditional on / off rocker switch.
Apart from that it has been flawless, which is more than I can say for the Shelly it replaced.

Speaking of dead Shelly’s, I had a Shelly1PM die today and I’m looking to replace it. Pretty disappointing as it didn’t do any actual switching, just monitored the power for a clothes dryer.
Does anyone know if the power monitoring on the Zigbee Double Power point from Ozsmartthings is per socket or overall ?

TIA

How old was it?

Can’t help with the power monitoring, perhaps send Oz Smart Things an email.

I’m guessing here, but I think 3 years ?

While typing that I was thinking 3 years isn’t too bad, but then again, if I had to replace all my IOT devices every 3 years I’d be getting out of the HA game pretty quickly.

Cheers, will do.

I’ll have to just dead switch the switch then until I order in the push button to make it work as intended which I don’t mind doing for a while since I will be using automation’s and controlling it via the phone as is.

I have some NFC stickers I can use as a hold over too lol, I been using one as a manual way to restart HA and one to toggle my phone to stay unlocked when at my desk.

It seems odd that those don’t act as zigbee routers given that it will have permanent power.

So odd in fact, it’s wrong !

Just checked my ZigBee map and the puck without routing has two temp sensors routed through it.

I figured it was likely wrong.

I think its the same for certain models of switches. Currently the devices that are acting as routers in my setup are my Hue bulbs/led strip and that cheap smart plug I got.

Feedback from Oz Smart Things is that their ZigBee devices that can be wired without a neutral do not ‘mesh’ ( their words )

I think what they mean is when neutral optional devices are wired without a neutral, they do not act as routers.

I have one still in the box. If I get a chance I’ll try this out.

And to answer my earlier question, Oz Smart Things ZigBee double power point has per-socket power monitoring.

That is also true of the Mercator Izuu dimmer mech without neutral (Dimmer Switch Mechanism | Ikuü), a pity because these are the only Zigbee option for switches in door architraves.

My experience of Zwave is that all switches without neutral work as routers. Not sure why Zigbee is different.

I have seen reports that the Zigbee Powerpoints don’t fit in a standard Clipsal box - too deep. I’d check that out.

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I wrote a guide to get the Mercator Ikuu Zigbee Pro Hub SGW003 working as a Zigbee gateway via Home Assistant, using a fork of the LocalTuya project.

The setup below will give you BOTH local control and Cloud connectivity at the same time with the standard hardware.
This gives full local control AND cloud control of your devices at the same time.
No device hacks, firmware flashes or 3rd party Zigbee controllers needed.

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/local-control-tuya-zigbee-devices-without-internet-localtuya/434692/11

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The Clipsal Iconic zigbee switches will fit in an architrave, the dimmers won’t.

Packing up my Xmas lights …

  • several with 2xAA battery packs, which I’m wondering about converting to mains power (with a relay or wi-fi power plug) for next year
  • several strings of cheap LED lights no longer working. Is it worth the effort to try to repair, rather than the being a good consumer and simply throwing out and replace every couple of years ?

I’m a pensioner who wouldn’t be safe with a soldering iron :frowning:

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