Thanks both for the feedback, I only just recently started reading up on them and was interested to hear the feedback. I’ll be sure to get some programmed & integrated
A comment to add visibility - the controller works fine via local API once set up if you block it in the firewall from internet. Obviously won’t continue to work with the mobile controller though.
It doesn’t like being in a DMZ VLAN, even if told it can chat to HA by whitelisting. I presume it’s port related, and it’s a PITA to swap it from one wifi ssin to another as you need to go in the roof space to hold the reset button, so I swapped it back and just blocked it from talking to anything other than the IP of HA (rather than snoop and fix it the right way…). Hasn’t tried to update itself even when allowing internet and setting it up initially with the app on SSIN swaps, this is with a BRP15861.
Have a few power points I wanted to pop a shelly+ pm behind to monitor power draw for automation triggering. Had a chat to a sparky at work who pointed out the clipsal iconic GPO (which I would ideally keep for congruence) only have a single feed in, the power points are all wired / switched internally so anything that wasn’t 1 gang socket wouldn’t really work as intended. Also pointed out shelly are only rated for 16a if 2 + gang
The EM is probably the ‘correct’ solution, but at double the price and no relay there are a few places it’s not ideal for.
Led me to wonder if it wouldn’t be easier to put one in-line on the appliance’s power cord, or on a extension cord for anything I cared about the warranty for. Fire retardant junction box around the shelly.
Probably not the best way to go about it, but the state of power monitoring has always seemed a bit bleak. Has anyone gone with this approach? Reminds me of the discontinued shelly in-line housing /c button they used to sell.
My goto for individual device monitoring is the Athom single smart switch. I know some people have had them early-life-fail but I have 8 of them been going > 12 months no worries. On my fridges, washer and dryer, server rack etc. It’s not particularly accurate at low power consumption but there isn’t much that is accurate there. Downside is if you’re not already using ESPHome you’ll need to.
e.g. Fridge:
Just had another Brilliant smart plug die today. 
What is more is that it absolutely spammed the heck out of my wifi disconnecting all other devices.
These things are nothing but ewaste.
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Since the beginning of 2022, athom sells these plug with a HLW8032 instead of HLW8012 which does offer better accuracy. 
Still software configuration can greatly limit these capabilities as seen with tasmota previously 
For best accuracy best is to use a very high update_interval on the power monitoring component and do the energy calculation on the esphome 
The default athom config for example only uses a 10s update interval and discards all readings lower than 3W as 0W 
Just take care as many of the motion sensors have an always on voltage and not a relay controlled output.
We purchased a couple of expensive mains based motion sensors from Voltex to use in this config and the Shelly 2 was seeing the input as always high.
Had to do a bit of funky wiring with a couple of spare SSR that i had (with AC switching input - not the more common DC) to get them to function correctly.
I do my stuff under NR so flashed the shellys to Tasmota and they work well now
One input goes to a manual momentary switch that can be used to set various modes by multiple presses etc, the other goes to the Motion sensor (via the SSR) and that then takes over in the evening to turn on external lighting etc in the event of motion.
Craig
Thanks all for your replies & the input. Yes, part of my concern is dying smart plugs on critical circuits (fridge, freezer) although these are all also 1 gang sockets so would be suitable for shelly to sit behind the wall, (in theory, never know what the builder did until you pull it out and see. Found some baffling circuit designs when he pulled out the light switches).
I don’t really need accuracy, but I do need to detect low power consumption on at least 2 appliances as I mostly want to track if they’re in use.
this clever retrofit isn’t far off from what I imagined, but distal to the GPO so the main switch isn’t obstructed.
the one area I’m thinking of in particular is a shallow bench in a butlers kitchenette (in a pantry) where anything other than a right angle plug into the socket stops the appliances from actually fitting because it pushes them forward too far.
TBH I don’t know that a shelly wired in line on an extension cord would be up to code anyway, so the question might be better for the electrician I’ve been using to see if they are even willing to do it. May just end up making more sense to swap the outlets in the areas I can’t use a smart plug to ones that have EM built in
There’s a bit of info on this via the link here…
Between the reliability reports and them not being certified, I find it hard to recommend them.
That said… Mine have been great so far. Not far in though.
I have several Telstra ZigBee smart switches which are great. And a skyconnect and ZigBee motion sensors including the original smarthings USB ZigBee repeater ones
If anyone interested I am in Melbourne and happy to give them away for cheap.
Cheers.
Did you test and tag that Dave 
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Hahaha, well it’s not getting used on a mine site or construction site, so no. I did however perform insulation resistance & earth continuity tests. Given that the parts (Z-Wave switch and plug / socket) are certified, it should be fine as is. It’s no different to me wiring up a contactor for a bore pump or something. ie: I have a licence.
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Funny I had seen this and was trying to find it. Ta.
Absolutely tops. Love that someone else has made a proof of concept. Good call on the glands, hadn’t thought that far ahead.
Sorta my reasoning here too. The parts are certed, guy doing the wiring is qualified… but I’m leaning away from this solution now anyway. It’ll be much neater and more practical to get another power point installed at the same time we sort out the cabinet lighting.
Plus I did a headcount of the circuits I want to monitor and realised they were all single plugs with the exception of the pantry. (Might still get one up for the garage though, be a good safety backup for power tools. If no power draw for an hour then switch off)
Huh… did not know Telstra made any at all, interesting. How many do you have and were you able to use them offline fully?
Yeah they work great no cloud pure ZigBee . It’s a cancelled Telstra smart home line. I got a few of them. Like 3-4 just of those too.
Working with my Electrician to install smart sensor light using a Shelly and all of the things I find on the internet say that only certain sensors work without modification. Does anyone know an off the shelf sensor that my electrician or I can source to “build” my outdoor sensor light?
Thanks
Edit: added that I am using a Shelly as the “switch”, sorry for missing this very important piece of information
I use a separate ZigBee motion sensor then either a smart ZigBee bulb (if you go that route electrician not required) or use an in wall or in ceiling switch (electrician required)